Drivers side front window keeps blowing fuse - Cars & Trucks

If fuse was bad window would not operate. I would suspect motor and they are readily available on line.
$60-$90


https://www.autogenius.info/ford-f-350-2011-2016-fuse-box-diagram/

https://fuse-box.info/ford/ford-f-250-f-350-f-450-f-550-2008-2012-fuses-and-relay

check switches and wiring harness for short

first mistake you make is to increase the fuse capacity to above that required. You have a short in the circuit and by putting such a large fuse in you run the very real risk of burning the wiring loom. Check the bulb sockets and check that the right bulbs are in the sockets. bulbs come in two styles. one has 2 contact points and is either for 2 filaments (stop and tail) or a earth wire (Plastic light units) and the other is a single contact that earths out through the metal base . If you have the wrong bulb in place the current will short directly across the contacts and the light will not come on and the fuse will blow. Fuses for tail lights will be 5 amp maximun

The fuse is blowing because there is a short to ground on the load side (between fuse and device being protected). Remove the inside door panel and take a close look at the wires between the window motor and where it feeds into the door. My bet is the up and down of the window gears scraped the wire bare. find the bare spot, electrical tape around exposed wire, secure the loose wire to the door using tie wrap so that metal does not contact wire. If there are not visible bare spots, remove the connection to the motor. You will need to pick up a short circuit tester, or a volt meter to isolate this problem

your going to have to remove the inner door panel and liner to look for frayed wire(s) also may have to look at the wires running in the boot that runs between the door and frame.

you obviously have a short to ground on one of the wires to the back (if it was the front the brake shouldn't blow the fuse). the most common problem is usually in a trailer light harness. if you look under the drivers side rear of the truck, down under the tail light there will be a plugin junction. pull this plug-in apart and see if the fuse still blows. if it does then the problem is forward of that connector, if it doesn't then the problem is behind that plugin. be sure to check for "green death" (electrical corrosion) at all joints especially any trailer hook ups.

take off the door panel and unplug the motor and try again could be a bad motor

short to ground in the circuit

usually the power windows in on a circut breaker fuse. if it blows it resets its self after cooling down. use a test light to see if you have power on any of the wires on the back of the switch. if you have power chances are you have a bad motor for the window. asuming that you replaced the front drivers side switch. if that wasn't the one you replaced say the back pass side switch odds are its the drivers side front set of switches bad. hope this helps you.

Problem fixed as follows:
Purchase a package of five 30 amp ALC type fuses. Replace blown fuse #8 (30 amp). Perform the following test to determine if the problem is isolated to the driver-side front window.
-One at a time, (i.e. only push one window switch button at a time) operate each of the other three windows (passenger side and rear driver side), to determine if the problem is occuring only on the driver side window. If any of them blows the fuse, replace it with a spare and proceed to test the next window. Repeat for each of the three windows. The process described below may also resolve the issue on the other windows if any of them blew the fuse during this test.
-Now, operate the switch for the driver side window. It is expected to work for a brief period (<1sec), but may very quickly blow fuse #8. Replace fuse #8 with one of the new 30 amp ALC fuses.
Remove the door panel, by sliding the speaker forward and removing the three white clips on the bottom of the panel. Also, pry out the screw clip in the panel well, just to the rear of the switch assembly, and remove the plastic bracket that holds in the switch assembly. The panel can now be lifted off.
To access the window mechanism, remove the tape over the oval cutouts near the top. Also, temporarily pull back the white plastic cover over the bottom of the door. Disconnect the white electrical connector near the center of the door (has only a red and black wire for the regulator motor). Using a small battery (motorcycle battery) and jumper leads test the mechanism's operation by connecting the battery directly to the motor wires. Use insulated test clips on the male connector and be careful not to short the clips together. The window mechanism should operate, and by interchanging the jumper wires (reversing battery power polarity), you can make the window go both up and down. Only do this for brief periods of time, as the motor circuit is now uprotected, i.e. there is no fuse in this test circuit. If the movement of the glass seems strained over part of the travel path, apply WD-40 lubricant to the metal rotating pivot point. Also apply silicone spray to the rail guides for the sides of the glass (with the window in the up position) and to the metal horizontal tracks and plastic wheels near the top of the mechanism. Also, spray some silicone lubricant along the bottom of the window on the outside, just above the rubber stripping, and operate the window a couple of times. An up and down test should now result in very smooth and even window movement. Reconnect the motor power wire to its mating connector, replace the tape and white plastic cover, and then replace the door panel. The mechanism should work smoothly, and the fuse should not blow. Total cost: $3.03 for fuses and a little WD-40 and silicone spray which you probably keep on hand.