Can crank sensor go bad for no reason on HD deuce softtail

P0306 ,is the only DTC error.
cylinder 6 means.
low combustion(weak) on #6 only.. has has 3 causes (basics)
bad #6 cylinder, compression below 150psi (a test) using tools.
or bad spark #6 ,
or bad injections, try swap 6 with 8 even bank>
even bank is passenger side is 2, 4, 6, 8

brakes bad for ABS, ,and ABS fails so does traction control
brakes first then ABS and last traction works.1,2,3 rules
we inspect brakes first. hand on,eyeball on for bad/warn or stick parts. ABS can not high grossly bad breaks, like say stuck caliper piston or seized caliper guide pins or warped or cracked rotors
Inspections DEEP is the next act..


p03nn errors are detected by piston ./rod/crank acceleration speeds
or think of it like this, 5.3l is 315HP, divided by 8 is 40hp per jug
so if cylinder 6 is only acting like 20HP then that is misfire.
the PCm knows how all 8 accelerate so fails the test if 1 is weak
cylinder 6 is weak. for SURE only why remains
one can guess or test.
compression tests (basic basics 101 stuff here)
new spark plug and cop boot.or HV wires sets if present.
injectors cleaned or swapped, 6 to 8

lets say #6 exhaust valve is burnt or its spring broken
no EFI on earth can hide that and get back 20+ HP from it.
see?

possible causes are
the pins that allow the caliper to slide to equalize on the disc rotor are stuck /jammed resulting on one pad still being held in contact with the rotor
another reason is that the brake master cylinder piston is out of adjustment thereby hold in the piston partially in the cylinder and blocking off the fluid return compensating port thereby holding the brakes slightly on
or the piston is correct but the compensating port is blocked anyway
check that the reservoir is not overfull

the purpose of a crank sensor is to fire the plugs at the correct time in relation of the piston position
with out that knowledge of where the piston is, the ECM will not initiate a spark ( if it is bad or there is a wiring problem the default is no spark)
so crank sensors either work or they don't and have no bearing on the rpms of the motor
the cam sensor on the other hand identifies where the valves are in relation to the piston position and tell the ECM to vary the valve timing in relation to engine rpms
they either work or don't and mostly when they don't it is because of a broken belt or chain or wiring( again the default is no spark)
the problem may be from a faulty accelerator position sensor or throttle position motor or the ECM has placed the system i limp mode
best advice is to have the fault codes read and determine exactly where the problem is

Actually, it is a bad sensor. Change your CRANK sensor and that should solve the issue. They're around $70 or so. It's located down on the bell housing of the transmission. Not terribly hard to change. It is NOT your PCM. Whoever told you that, is out for blood. LOL I hope this helps!! :) -Jason

There is really only one way that gasoline can get into the crankcase, and that is through one or more cylinders. My guess is that you either have a carburetor that is providing a too rich air/fuel mixture, you have one or more spark plugs that are not firing or firing irregularly, or, in the worst case, you have badly worn cylinders/piston rings. Remove the spark plugs and look for a plug, or plugs, that are wet with gas, and/or black with carbon. Connect the plug wires to all of the spark plugs and lay the plugs against the cylinder head. Now crank the engine over and make sure that you have good spark (wide and blue in colour) at each plug. If you have no spark, or a small yellow spark, then you either have a bad plug (change all four) or a bad coil. If the spark is good then do a compression test on the engine. The compression should be around 150 psi and fairly close between cylinders (less than 10% difference). An engine overhaul is going to be needed if your compression readings are much lower than 150 psi or vary widely. If compression and spark are OK, then you need to check the carb(s).

try switching the position of the two coils, the plug wires will unscrew off of the coils and that way you dont have to pull the spark plug wires too,(be sure and change the 2 wire couplers too) if your front cylinder stops firing you know its the coil, if the back cylinder still doesn't fire then your coil is good and you either have a bad #2 spark unit or a bad crank pulse generator.

I worked on a Silverodo and the problem I was having was that 1 cylinder wouldn't fire.I changed the plugs the wires and replaced the air filter.I still got a misfire on my no. 5 cylinder.Tested the cam sensor and the crank sensor and they were fine.I finally took it to have a balance test done on the injectors and it was a bad injector.So I would get a balance test to see if you have a bad injector if you have done everything else.

The crankshaft sensor is responsible for sending a signal to the PCM (powertrain control module) it tells the computer what cylinder to fire at the coresponding time, it lines up with whats called a trigger wheel on the crankshaft as the crankshaft spins there are small notches cut into the trigger wheel when 1 of the notches lines up with the crankshaft sensor a magnetic field forms between the trigger whell and the sensor and the computer charges the coil for that corresponding cylinder, once the magnetic field dissappears when the notch passes by the sensor the computer fires the spark plug for that corresponding cylinder if you have a bad crankshaft position sensor you will more then likely have a stalling condition due to weak spark or if the sensor is totally gone your engine will just crank and not start due to the spark plugs not having any spark being delivered to them......

Has anyone checked the Crank position sensor or knock sensor? If the Crank position sensor isn't reporting the correct position of the crank when it turns the spark plugs are firing at the wrong time. This could be because of a worn timing belt or faulty timing belt tension arm. Have the sensors checked and if they are good your left with replacing your timing belt.

Pull the spark plug from #1 cylinder. Cut a piece of
straight coat hanger wire about 8" long,(enough so it can't fall into the cyl.)insert the wire into the cylinder.
Have a helper turn the crank until the piston is at the
top of it's stroke.(using the wire to gauge the pistons position) remove dist. cap and turn the camshaft until
the roter is set to fire #1 cylinder. Now check your
timing gear marks, if they line up, your at TDC if not
bring the crank around again. You can do the piston
roter position test before you tear it down again.
this will give you an idea of where your at on the mechanical end of this. But first hook up an obdII
and see if the cam and crank sensors show codes.
Hope this helps. Good luck.