Question about 2003 Yamaha WR 450 F

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My 2004 WR450F does not start, it appears to be fuel sarvation, is this common? and how can you fix it?

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  • bozcro
    bozcro May 11, 2010

    after many start attempts, remove a plug and tell me if its wet or dry, this way we know for sure if its fuel or ignition

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If spark plug is dry after turning engine over remove tha carb and take the bottom(float bowl) off.Clean all insides and check to see if the floats are correctly adjusted and the needle is not sticking.

Posted on Jul 27, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Hi, Anonymous for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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I have a 2004 wr 450, when I got it out this year and started it I noticed that it pops through the exaust a lot. What can cause this?


Hi, Anonymous popping or backfiring on deceleration is usually caused by a lean fuel condition or an air leak in the exhaust system and is generally located where black carbon soot is seen as a flashing build up from any joint connection. This condition can easily be remedied by removing and cleaning both joint pieces and reassembling with high temp silicone and torquing the exhaust clamp to the proper spec. Coughing is usually caused by an air leak in the intake system and will generally have the same telltale signs, a wet or damp buildup of oil/gas seepage at the intake manifold to cylinder head or carburetor to intake manifold connection and in rare instances a worn throttle plate shaft and or seals. Spitting is usually caused by a faulty accelerator pump and or nozzle, or the float bowl needle and seat leaking and overflowing through the main jet mixing well nozzle, or the air-fuel mixture screw is adjusted too lean. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Bought a new battery and my bike still won't turn over


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched or kinked.
8. Carburetor float stuck.
9. Fuel injectors clogged.
10. Severely discharged or damaged battery, you need 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
11. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
12. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box.
Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
13. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty MAP, CKP, O2, TPS, sensors.
14. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
15. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
16. Faulty CDI box.
17. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
18. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
19. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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2004 wr450f running rough an stalls on the road have cleaned carby out and it has no response if you give it a boot full it just dies


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
15. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
16. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Sarvation problem?


It could be a blocked breather in the Fuel filler. Or a blocked fuel filter. Check them both. Most likely the fuel filler breather.

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I have a 2004 wrf 450. Starts up fine.Then cuts out! I've tryed a new pickup coil. And a new plug. I'm blagged


Hi, Chris_b555 and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a "LOAD" test if necessary, your battery may show 12.5 volts but have little or zero amps and needs to be replaced.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, points/condenser ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. Fuel tank contaminated with ethanol sludge.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
16. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
17. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Kurtroberts8 there is no water pump gear timing just bolt it in for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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While driving at different speeds a chucking sensation comes from the engine and when you drive on or slow up it stops its also heavy on diesel ie. 45 mph would it be a diesel pump - sarvation or too much....


You should still be in warranty, if not maybe a recall is out for a common problem. The speed you mention is about where the torque converter locks for the automatics. You might want to look under the hood for loose hoses. In a gas engine a EGR solenoid could give the same symptoms.

Think about when this problem started as in a gulp of bad fuel. Seems like it smooths out accellerating and decellerating but bucks when vehicle is level. Like to know the outcome for this case.

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