Question about 2005 Honda CRF 250 R

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Hesitation at half to full throttle and has stalled while riding. has new piston rings and a new rod. was told it could be cdi or stator. but don't know the specs.1998 ktm 300mxc

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Head or base gasget is not rite its leaking under load.

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

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I would guess if it runs good under half throttle, to be a dirty carb, or a worn spark plug or coil/wire.

Posted on Jul 15, 2009

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2004 Ram 2500 starts, low idle 400 rpm and stalls, any ideas?


With out see it running on a scanner. Maybe the IAC or throttle body. Does it have any codes. Did you erase codes after rebuild? Any time I do a rebuild on engines and transmission, the codes have to to erased. Other wise you are trying to run a new part on old PCM codes. Codes have to be erased.

Dec 13, 2016 | 2004 Dodge Ram 2500

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Why is my 250 recon knocking when has a fresh piston and rings with only 2 hours of riding it?


the question is did you remove the ridge at the top of the bore before you put the new piston and rings in. If you didn't then the knock could be from a broken top ring or broken ring land under top ring
all cylinders wear up to where the top ring stops and when new pistons and rings are fitted this wear point hits the ring as with a new piston the ring now travels further up the cylinder

May 13, 2015 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Stalling


The CDI box could be bad or the coil could be breaking down so maybe a new coil would fix you up they only run around 20$ cdi box on the other hand can cost an easy 100$ or better you might also try changing the oil but make sure to buy kinda thick oil cause it's cold out

Jan 13, 2014 | Suzuki KingQuad 400 ASi 4X4 ATVs

1 Answer

02 yz 250 not reving up


Check the compression. It should have at least 100 psi,..if not,then its time to rebuild the top end..IE piston,rings,bore cylinder. If compression checks out,i would start with the power valve. Two stroke dirtbikes power valves are notorius for gumming up and sticking,causing them to not rev correctly.

Aug 31, 2012 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 250

1 Answer

I have a big problem with my YZ250F 2008, I installed the aluminum radiator protectors and by mystake I forgot to refill the radiators with anticoolant... so Yeah, I went for my Sunday common ride and...


Assuming it all back together correctly as you had so much practice now I sure all your timing set correct and your valves clearance are all spot on
There is a few things I would be attempting firstly being its virtually brand new motor I would be checking your stator with multimeter testing its resistance readings - let me know if you want info on this ?
if the stator all good then I would be suspicious of the CDI unit especially as you have cooked motor beneath it the heat could have killed it ?
if these two theory fail then your next option would have to be leak down test to confirm your new head is sealing valves in it are sealing and you not losing compression past the rings
From what you have written I would be mostly concerned with electrical side first Dont be fooled either just because spark plug has a spark does not mean stator and CDI are correct?
have you tested kicking over with spark plug laying on head bolt or something is it sparking at all?
regards Jamie

Sep 07, 2011 | 2008 Yamaha yZ250F

2 Answers

My kxf250 will no start it was such a good bike started first time evry time then rideing it hard one day it was fine left it for a week and it did not start and had no compresson so took it apart rings...


Hi mate sounds like you tested all the standard stuff you obviously know what your doing - In my experience when I get a bike like this where all seemingly is good and set correctly but no sign of life when trying to start 99% of the time ends up being the stator.
And I know it seems strange but I honestly up to about my tenth bike now where even though shows spark at plug when kicked over test, the stator still at fault when tested with Multi meter (way out of spec.)
If you have your repair manual flick through and get the spec ranges for the resistance on your stator then disconnect the stator lead at the CDI end and its very simple set your meter to ohms and plug into each pair of wires (usually 3 pairs) and see what readings you get
don't worry to much if you don't have the spec range as if it is the stator you will quickly notice you get zero reading on one pair of wires if not all three?
let me know if you want more clarification on testing
If all this fails to assist then my advice would a be leak down test to diagnose compression leaks, open valves, gasket leaks etc Then I would pay attention to the pilot circuit of the carbi, Double check your timing and valve clearances, Then I would be back to testing stator again?
Very rarely your coil pack (spark plug cap) can fail but be worth testing it when you have your multi meter out ( you looking for about 0.08 - 0.10 resistance reading on it) and even more rarely the CDI box can fail, no real way to test this apart from plug new one in and test if cures things...
Being that 5-6 years old and you know the bulk of how to fix and maintain this sound more and more like a stator problem..
On the up side if you do need to change the stator great opportunity to change cam chain aswell they run like brand new with full stator power and a brand new cam chain
cheers mate .... Good luck!

Aug 22, 2011 | 2005 kawasaki KX 250

1 Answer

Stalling after 15 to 30 minutes of hard riding.


There are many possibilities for this issue here is a list of things to diagnose first of all ... when we get the reason we can then talk on how to rectify...
Check valve clearances are they in spec..
do leak down test to check for leaking intake or exhaust valve this also tests the health of your piston and rings by default..
With a multi meter test the resistance readings on your stator you will need your manual or ring Honda to get the range of in spec readings on the stator resistance..
one of these tests above will definitely give you an answer and let you know what the issue is -
if all the tests above conclude that the bike is all good then the CDI or spark plug coil is the only area left.
In my experience a bike that starts, runs good then fails, is nearly always electrical (stator low on resistance) but if you do all the tests above you will get valuable information on the engine and the electrical internal health,which is always good to know !
good luck mate regards Jamie

Jun 19, 2011 | 2009 Honda CRF450R

1 Answer

Top end repair: After all is removed and replaced, how do I reinstall the piston into the cylinder? What are torque specs for cyl? Inch or ft. lbs?


You will want to install the piston onto the crank before you install the cylinder and head. With the head and cylinder off, the crank rod will be exposed. Put some shop towels around the crank rod before you start to avoid dropping any small parts into your lower end while you replace the piston. Your new piston kit should come with: (1) piston, (2) circlips,(1) wrist pin and (1 or 2) rings depending on the bike. Also it is suggested that you should replace the wrist pin bearing as well (usually sold seperately). If you have not removed the existing piston you will need to remove one of the circlips from the side of the piston. Do this by using a small screwdriver in the teardrop hole where the wristpin attaches the piston to the crank. Then push the wristpin through the piston from the side that still has a circlip through the side that it has been removed from. Once the wristpin is out, the piston will pull straight up off the crank and the wristpin bearing will slide out of the crank rod. Before installing your new parts you will want to have some 2-Stroke oil on hand. Lube up the wrist pin bearing with 2-stroke oil and slide it into the crank rod. Install ONE of the circlips into the piston before connecting it to the bike. Do this in a clean area because these things like to jump out when you're trying to put them in. BE SURE IT SEATS FULLY INTO ITS GROOVE. Once ONE circlip is in, slide the piston over the crank rod WITH THE ARROW ON THE TOP OF THE PISTON FACING THE EXHAUST!! so the wrist pin hole lines up with the wrist pin bearings. Lube the wrist pin and slide it into the piston from the side with out the circlip, through the wrist pin bearing until it seats against the circlip installed on the opposite side. Install the second circlip and MAKE SURE IT SEATS FULLY INTO ITS GROOVE. Install the rings onto the piston. (Some OEM rings have a flat side and a sloped side be sure to match the piston you have removed) Notice that there are tiny notches in the rings that must line up with nipples in the ring seats. This is the only way the cylinder will slide on properly. Next, put a thin coat of oil on the cylinder walls, remove the shop towels, and put on the cylinder base gasket. Now, with one hand, pinch the rings tight to the ring seats making sure the nipples in the ring seats sit in the notches of the rings. With the other hand, slide the cylinder over the piston. THIS SHOULD SLIDE DOWN EASILY! If not, remove the cylinder, verify the rings are properly seating in the ring seats and try again. Once the cylinder is on install the base nuts. If you can get a torque wrench on the cylinder base nuts tighten down to manufacture spec's (24 ft lbs) Usually you can not get a torque wrench on the base nuts because the cylinder walls are in the way so I give it a german torque "goot-n-tite" (good and tight). Next put the head gasket on and the head gasket, and tighten down finger tight. Do this in a criss cross pattern, starting off with hand tight, then 3 or 4 steps until reaching the manufacture spec (18 ft.lbs). Put the plug in and you should be ready to go. Be sure to break in properly by running 3 heat cycles through the enging. From fully cooled, start the bike and ride it using NO MORE THAN 1/2 throttle until it reaches full temp. keeping the RPM's varying. Let cool COMPLETELY. Second heat cycle, same thing except use up to 3/4 throttle. Cool COMPLETLY AGAIN. Third heat cycle ride up to full throttle. Be sure to keep the RPM's varying in all heat cycles. No long runs at the same RPM level. Here is where I got the specs for the cylinder and head torque settings so you may want to call a local shop and verify. http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-764174.html

Oct 11, 2009 | 2003 Suzuki RM 125

1 Answer

R6 hesitation when starting out


Not often i see good questions like this. I would start with riching the carbs a bit. Another possible simple solution is to get your plugs check to make sure they are firing at full capacity, either one can cause the problems you have described. My first guess though would be the carbs, it sounds like the throttle is set a bit off to what it should be at. The fact that your bike runs fine otherwise also suggests this conclusion.

Jun 16, 2009 | 2000 Yamaha YZF-R6

5 Answers

4 wheeler 250cc no compression


it needs a set of rings and maybe a piston then it will be like new again

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