Question about 2005 Harley Davidson FLHTC - FLHTCI Electra Glide classic

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Oil leaking from left rear air shock..small amount (few drops)..still holds air pressure(15-20 psi)

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The fact that the air filled upper portion of the shock is still holding air doesn't change the fact that the o-ring seals in the oil filled portion at the bottom of the shocks are going bad. You are better off replacing both of them soon before it affects ride comfort and handling.

Posted on Jul 15, 2009

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1 Answer

Low oil pressure and small leak


Oil pressure on these bikes is around 30 PSI at 2500 RPM or higher when fully warmed up. This will take 20 miles or more. At idle on fully warmed engine, pressure can be as low as 7 PSI depending on oil quality. It should however increase to around 30 when reved up. You did not specify where your oil leak is for me to comment on.

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Air compressor not unloading


Check the pressure switch. The unloader valve is actually in the pressure switch where the small air line from the tank check valve attaches to it. When the pressure switch turns the motor off it then lets the head pressure bleed off so the motor can restart the next time pressure drops in the tank. If it's not working and bleeding off the head pressure the cold start valve (the one with the pin in it) also won't open so the motor can restart and warn up properly.

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1 Answer

I have air shocks and I don't know how much pressure to put to put in them


Would say it depends on the vehicle and your load. My rule of thumb is to start at 30 PSI and gradually increase until vehicle just starts to rise. Adjust as you feel for ride. Increase pressure if you will carrying a heavy load and the rear drops. Usually air shocks max out spec is 100 - 120 PSI. More may cause damage to the shocks. Hope this helps

Nov 08, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How much air (p.s.i.) should there be in the front and back shocks


Hi.

Depends on what you want to get. In theory the fork can be between 0 and 43 psi. In practice if you put 40 psi it will be completely stiff and seals may start leaking.

In practice the front take 0 to 12 psi, and rear shock from 7 to 21 psi.

If you need street performance put more pressure. Settings for comfort in long travels will require lower pressure.

Here tables from service manual:

FRONT

ginko_107.jpg

REAR:

Rear shock absorber air pressure can vary from 0.5 kg/cm2 (7 psi) to 1.5 kg/cm2 (21 psi) as the road conditions become more severe or the load increases.

For the front here below the procedure from service manual. I suggest staying far from the 43 psi limit suggested if you do not want to break the seals.

8. Make sure the front wheel is off the ground and inflate the forks to 0-0.4 kg/cm2 (0-6 psi). Do not use compressed air; use only a small hand-operated air pump.
CAUTION
Never exceed an air pressure of 43 psi (3.0 kg/cm2) as damage may occur to internal components of the fork assembly.

Jun 12, 2011 | 1986 Honda VF 500 F

1 Answer

Alrighty. I've asked this a few times before, I have more info now. CHEVY 350 K1500. 1993. Replaced intake gaskets, (bad oil leak) dropped a small amount of coolant in with oil while doing so. Changed oil...


how did you clean the gasket off of the head? if you used a sanding disc the grit will eat up the bearings. are you reading pressure with a mechanical gauge? you have replaced all bearings??

6 psi @ 1000 RPM
18 psi @ 2000 RPM
24 psi @ 4000 RPM
this is chevrolet specs on oil pressure in your truck so you are within the range.

describe your idle problem more and i will try and help you with that

Feb 02, 2011 | 1993 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

Where is the a.i.r. pump located



The air pump for the secondary air system (emission control device) is located under the battery. If you do replace it, replace the check valve too, it is on top of the exhaust manifold and connected to the pump with a hose. The check valve fails and ruins the pump. Source(s): http://repairpal.com/volvo-850-1997/comm…
http://repairpal.com/air-pump-check-valv…
http://repairpal.com/air-pump

OR


I think they are talking about the pump to provide vacuum to the climate control when the turbo is putting boost in the intake manifold. The vacuum can come from an electric pump or from an engine driven pump, something like an old engine driven fuel pump. I needed an electric pump for my 765T, and all the wrecking yards wanted to sell me the engine driven form. (A new one was $500, and it wasn't that important to me.)

An engine that takes the engine driven pump will have a hole in it while the others will not have a hole. Source(s): 35 years maintaining my own cars, including 17 years with a 1985 765T


OR



Rear Suspension Leveling Air Compressor
RH front of vehicle, attached beneath the fascia

Rear Suspension Leveling Air Compressor Relay K19
Lower I/P, to the RH side of the steering column, on the relay box


Automatic Level Control System Operation Check
Support the rear wheels or support the rear lower control arms when certain tests require raising the vehicle on a hoist. Use two additional jack stands in order to support the rear lower control arms in the normal curb weight position when a frame type hoist is used. Refer to Trim Height Specifications in Suspension General Diagnosis.

Refer to ALC Suspension System Check for electrical troubleshooting of the Automatic Level Control (ALC) system, or if DTC's are present.

Diagnosing Leveling Complaints Without DTCs Present Procedure
Perform the following preliminary inspections before performing the system performance test:

Inspect the ignition (pin A & pin H) at the ALC sensor connector.
Ensure that the ignition (pin A & pin H) at the ALC sensor connector connection is secure.
Inspect the ground (pin E) at the ALC sensor connector.
Ensure that the ground (pin E) at the ALC sensor connector connection is secure.
Inspect the ALC sensor link.
Ensure that the ALC sensor link is properly secured to the actuator arm.
Inspect the ALC sensor actuator arm for damage.
ALC Diagnosis Table Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No

1
Has the ALC compressor assembly and the air tube been replaced?
--
Go to Step 7
Go to Step 2

2
Raise and support the vehicle. Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Inspect the air tubes running from the ALC compressor to both rear shock absorbers.
Inspect the air tube connection at the ALC air dryer.
Are the air tubes damaged and/or disconnected?
--
Go to Step 13
Go to Step 3

3
Squeeze the left rear shock absorber in the middle of the air sleeve.

Did the air sleeve slightly compress?
--
Go to Step 5
Go to Step 4

4
Operate the ALC system for 60 seconds.
Test the air tube-to-air dryer connection for leaks using a soap bubble solution.
Is a leak evident?
--
Go to Step 20
Go to Step 5

5
Disconnect the air tube from the ALC dryer.
Connect the Pressure Gauge to the ALC dryer.
Close the toggle valve on the Pressure Gauge .
Operate the ALC compressor.
Did the pressure build to the specified value?
80 psi
Go to Step 6
Go to Step 10

6
Shut off the compressor when the pressure reaches 80 psi.
Monitor the gauge for 1 minute.
Did the pressure leak down?
--
Go to Step 10
Go to Step 7

7
Connect the Pressure Gauge to the right rear shock absorber. Ensure that the toggle valve on the Pressure Gauge is away from the shock absorber.
Close the toggle valve.
Pressurize the shock absorber at the toggle valve on the Pressure Gauge to 80 psi.
Monitor the gauge for 1 minute.
Did the system leak down?
--
Go to Step 11
Go to Step 8

8
Use the toggle valve on the Pressure Gauge in order to slowly release the air pressure.
Disconnect the Pressure Gauge from the right rear shock absorber.
Connect the Pressure Gauge to the left rear shock absorber.
Pressurize the Pressure Gauge to 80 psi.
Monitor the gauge for 1 minute.
Did the pressure leak down?
--
Go to Step 12
Go to Step 9

9
Use the toggle valve on the Pressure Gauge in order to slowly release the air pressure.
Disconnect the Pressure Gauge from the left rear shock absorber.
Connect the Pressure Gauge , inline, at the tee near the rear of the vehicle.
Reconnect the air tube to the ALC dryer.
Open the toggle valve on thePressure Gauge .
Using shop air, pressurize the system to 80 psi at the service connection of the Pressure Gauge .
Monitor the pressure gauge for 1 minute.
Did the pressure leak down?
--
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 20

10
Replace the following components:

• Replace the ALC compressor. Refer to Air Compressor Replacement .

• Replace the air tube. Refer to Air Tube Replacement .

Are the replacements complete?
--
Go to Step 20
--

11
Slowly open the toggle valve on the Pressure Gauge in order to relieve the air pressure.
Replace the right rear shock absorber. Refer to Shock Absorber Replacement in Rear Suspension.
Reconnect all of the air tube connections.
Is the shock absorber replaced, and are all of the air tube connections reconnected?
--
Go to Step 20
--

12
Slowly open the toggle valve on the Pressure Gauge in order to relieve the air pressure.
Replace the left rear shock absorber. Refer to Shock Absorber Replacement in Rear Suspension.
Reconnect all of the air tube connections.
Is the shock absorber replaced, and are all of the air tube connections reconnected?
--
Go to Step 20
--

13
Are any of the air tubes damaged?
--
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 18

14
Replace the air tube that runs from the air dryer to the two rear shock absorbers.

Is the replacement complete?
--
Go to Step 15
--

15
Remove the ALC air dryer from the compressor assembly.
Shake the ALC air dryer with the head connection down.
Did water/moisture come out of the ALC air dryer when the dryer was shaken?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 17

16
Replace the ALC air dryer. Refer to Automatic Level Control Air Dryer Replacement .

Is the replacement complete?
--
Go to Step 17
--

17
Replace the air compressor head. Refer to Automatic Level Control Air Compressor Head Replacement .

Is the replacement complete?
--
Go to Step 18
--

18
Install the ALC compressor on the vehicle.
Reconnect all of the air tube connections.
Is the ALC compressor reinstalled, and are all of the air tube connections reconnected?
--
Go to Step 20
--

19
Repair the air tube-to-air dryer connection leak.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 20
--

20
Reconnect all of the connectors that were disconnected.
Reconnect all of the components that were removed.
Clear all of the codes with the ignition ON and with the engine OFF.
Wait at least 5 minutes.
Is the rear of the vehicle trim level?
--
System OK
--






Aug 04, 2010 | 1998 Cadillac Catera

1 Answer

Yz125 rear shock amount of oil on


The volume is less than about 1/2 quart - it's usually not measured going in since you fill the shock completely - there's no need to measure. Some guys assemble the entire shock, then fill with oil and cycle the shaft, then install the bladder cap last. My method is to install the shaft and seal head and the bladder, then put about 2 PSI in the bladder, then bleed through the compression cap. My method is a bit more complicated to explain, but it's effective at eliminating ALL the air from the oil and it keeps the bladder from being installed in a collapsed state.

As far as the nitrogen charge - 145PSI is stock. 130-160PSI is typical.

Apr 30, 2010 | 2004 Yamaha YZ 125

1 Answer

I have a 2001 saturn wagon, Coolant leak where the alternator is!


What may assist in your diagnostic is a system pressure tester.This has a hand pump to where you can pressure up the system to 12 to 17 lbs and this really helps bring on hard to find leaks. You may be overlooking coolant leaking from the "weep hole" in the bottom of the water pump or a place that might become much more obvious inspecting this system under pressure. The tester also helps diagnostic by noticing if the system holds pressure for a sustained amount of time.A small leak will drop your 12 psi in a matter of a few minutes and you will continually need to pump a few more times to keep that pressure which further indicates the system is leaking down.

Aug 26, 2009 | 2001 Saturn SC

2 Answers

How much oil do i put in the rear shok for a yz250


You can change it. Im looking for the correct amount to do it myself. I already pulled mine apart and bought a rebuild kit for it. Comes with a new nitrogen bladder, o rings for the seal, and a few other necessary items. Just remember to measure where the jam nuts holding your spring is so you can put it back in the correct location. As for the nitrogen i heard 150 psi. I'm fortunate to work at an offroad racing shop so i'm just gonna fill mine with nitrogen there, but i dont think you should get charged too much at a regular bike shop. Rockymountainatv.com has the rebuild kit. You will need the seals atleast. If i find anything else out i'll let you know. Hope this helps.

Mar 15, 2009 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 250

2 Answers

My '94 FLHTC no longer holds air in the front shocks.


Air shocks are done when they no longer hold air, they'll need replaced. They can be rebuilt, (not sure why), but almost all places won't because it's cheaper to buy new ones, and not worth their time. You can also get a rebuild kit, but again, with the kit, specialty tools required, and the extreme pain in the arse that is involved, new ones are cheaper. So, with this said, buy new shocks, it's going to be cheaper and safer than rebuilding these.

Sep 09, 2008 | Harley Davidson Harley-Davidson Motorcycle...

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