Bike runs fine everything seems to be in order. but, after you ride for a while and the bike starts to heat up it starts to idle a lot higher. for example after riding for about 30 mins, when your stopped and the clutch is in it will be idling at abot 3.5rpm instead of its usual 1 / 1.5. any ideas on what could be the problem?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
there is a sensor on ur bike sometimes under the seat or around the battery box on the back of the sensor (always has two) it will look like plastic if that pastic looks like it melted they are the problem
All the wrf's,250 426 400 etc. WILL heat up and boil if they are left running without being ridden.They need air to be flowing over the radiator.1 minute can be enough to get them hot if the choke is used.You wrote that this happened after an oil change.Did you previously let the bike sit and run?.Check your air filter is clean as this can enrich the fuel/air ratio and create extra heat.Main thing is ,shut the bike down if you are stopping for more then a very short time.To satisfy yourself,take the bike for a slow ride as it is warming up.It can take up to 1 mile to get proper temp. into the entire motor.Hope this helps
This is a fairly common problem with performance bikes. The problem comes from your thermostat. The thermostat is designed to open and close at a certain temp. What I suspect is happening is that your thermostat is opening too early for the bike to get to operating temp, hence the long time to warm up. Once you open up the bike warms up and the oil viscosity thins to operating temp and the engine revs more freely. Now your idle screws are set for a "cold" bike and revs high.
The other side is that the oil you are using may not be designed for your bike. Often people put performance synthetic oils in their bikes to perform better, but the production bikes are designed for thicker oils. Oils like 5w40 will be very thin allowing your bike to rev faster due to thinner oil, but you are causing extra wear on the parts due to less oil barrier.
First I suggest make sure you have the correct spec oil for you bike, then check that you have the correct thermostat in your cooling system. A performance bikes usual operating temp is between 95-105 deg C. This means your thermostat should only open at about 88deg C to start the regulation process.
how many lights are you running? try disconnecting the battery and hooking up a shunt with a volt meter or a current meter inline. then check the current with different accessories or everything running. If you have a big load and stereo amp you may need to upgrade the charging system and the Circuit Breaker or try a aftermarket CB.
It happened once to me, riding slow, new pavement, very hot day, spot lights and stereo amp on.
Have a new CB on order but, put on another 4000 miles without another problem????
It still sounds like it still running rich. If it doesn't have any performance mods like aftermarket exhaust it wont like the stage 3 kit. The stage 3 kit should be install if it has high performance exhaust and k&n pods instead of an airbox and filter. Or the floats may be stuck or improperly adjusted.