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I have a few tips about spark plugs you might find helpful, alongside watching some youtube videos
1. did you know you can use a multi-meter to test and see the continuity is correct. (more helpful when making sure all 4 or 6 plugs are offering the same spark)
2. as for the spark-plug designs,. the shorter the Ceramic end the hotter the plug gets. so sometimes you can affect overheating by lengthening the plug length, or vice versa.
3. the GAP you can just google the spark-plug number and put the word GAP. it will give you the gap manufacturers recommends .
4. you can also adjust spark by shortening the gap, to make it fire faster, with less spark, or make GAP bigger to increase the spark length and make it longer. (in the olden days, they used to make some fine tuning in these areas)
i.e. most people now don't know much about spark-plugs so they just use the factory default, when a manual is telling you to use a certain spark-plug Manufacturers Number, they also mean for you to use the GAP that is factory Set.
5 it is good to measure the GAP on all plugs even brand new, since they can change from being tapped by accident in shipping.
6. the gap is measured with a tool that has approx. 6 different thickness wires, or spacers, and some kind of small bending device, for you to make adjustments to the upper lever arm on the spark pin.
the GAP on all spark plugs, share a range of approx.6mm .
as I mentioned the length of ceramics, affects heat more than GAP.
So in most cases it is best to use recommended spark plug, BECAUSE THE LENGTH OF THE END GOING INTO CHAMBER NEEDS TO NOT HIT THE BOTTOM OF THE PLUG WITH PISTON
I have a Bicycle Motorized, a few Electric Bikes, 2 Scooters, 50cc, 125cc, and Rat Roadster
all the things I said should give you an idea of what I know, please watch youtube videos, alongside with my advice for reference, be careful with spark-plugs to always HAND TIGHTEN. and not STRIP THE THREAD ON THE ENGINE. especially with cheep china motors.
quick tip. if you have a head that can bolt on any direction with a slant plug., turn plug angle away from intake port. and towards exhaust port. . if you want more power. port the cylinder intake(pitted to cause fuel to get spread) and the exhaust smooth, and made larger. have fun, & always good to be practicing these port adjustments to a spare cylinder if they only cost $40.
NEVER USE SANDPAPER TO CLEAN AND REUSE PLUGS.
UNLESS YOU CAN BLOW THEM OUT TOTALLY WITH HIGH AIR PRESSURE. since any sand from the paper that gets into you cylinder will cause minor and small long term damage. THINK AHEAD ALWAYS GOOD TO BUY A NEW PLUG FOR $3 over RECYCLED
oh and I don't ever waste money on d'em expensive plugs replacements, they all do the exact same thing, the multi-meter test I marked is more important, reason to take one over the other, the different power is not achieved by quality. a regular champion copper plug is always good for me. and if it fails I replace them.
the difference between the 2 cycle plugs and 4,6,8 cylinder plugscrapis more about cutting engine noise with the stuff inside the upper-mid part of the ceramic housing.
*unless you own a TOYOTA .DENZO OEM PLUGS ARE 10 year plugs but 10x the price. I recommend DENZO only for TOYOTA
all the other plugs are the same ****, designed to fire at the same exact temps, and spark and everything. that is how they are all interchangeable, and your car doesn't go faster from changing between brands, they are all designed to fit within exact manufacturers specs. so don't get excited with the special packaging or shapes. or metals they will claim to use... to achieve the exact same numbers as the cheaper version they make themselves. quite funny to see , once you get to the spark plug isle and see the COLORFUL selection
last tip on spark plugs, never put them near your wind shield. they can break glass with a little drop from a few inches away.
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Disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait at least 90 seconds before performing any other work.
Remove the ignition coil(s). The Spark Plugs are underneath the Coils
Using a 0.63 inch (16mm) plug wrench, remove the spark plug
CAUTION== Replace your Spark Plugs with the Original Type Plug Brand Name and Spark Plug Number OR you will have Problems with PRE-INGNITION: DON'T SUBSTITUTE to Any other Type Spark Plug. You might have to get them at the Dealer Ship.
On GM inline engines,cylinder #1 is the one closest to the front(pulley)end of the engine. If you pulled the wires off the distributor/coil pack,and don't know where they go,put one wire one at a time and crank it.If it doesn't backfire,repeat until it starts.(this is only easy on 4 cylinder or smaller engines)
first of all there should only be two wires for battery(+) & (-) the six wires if it's a six cyclinder engine, then it sounds like your holding the spark plug wires, which run from your spark plugs to the distributor cap and I have no idea the make or model/year etc so I can't tell you the proper order, if your lucky they'll be numbers on the cap and that will tell you what wire plugs into where there but to which spark plug I'm not sure.
When en engine won't start, there could be a number of things wrong. An engine requires air, fuel, and spark to start. You need to start by checking for spark. Take out one of the spark plugs and plug it back into the wire. Have somebody else turn the key while you hold the plug up to something metal on the engine, right next to the spark plug hole will be fine. You should see a bright blue spark, if you don't then you probably need to replace the spark plugs. You can do this same thing with any of the spark plugs. If you don't have spark on any of the plugs, get back with me and we'll go from there.
This has a coil pack and four spark plug wires, correct?
If so and you have replaced the spark plug wires and you don't have any spark out number four but you have spark on number one than you have a bad coil. You can remove the number four wire from the coil start the engine. Use. Test light connected to ground and place it near the opening in the coil that the spark plug wire goes into. You should see a sharp strong snappy spark. You may find that you have to hold the test light really close to the metal part inside the oil tower to see any spark.
If this is the case you have a bad coil.
Be careful when checking for spark. There is between 30 - 40 thousand volts generated but the merge is extremely low. If you get zapped it's going to tickle. Bit but it won't kill you.
Good luck and let me know what you find.
Don, this depends on the position that the distributer was in when it was removed. So, I presume that you do not know that...
here is what you do next: Pull plug #1, ground coil output, place finger over plug hole and turn the engine over until compression stroke can be detected (air rushing past your finger) then observe the timing marks on cranskshaft. this may take a few times until you are sure that you are on compression stroke and near top dead center of #1. Then install the dist pointing towards #1 plug position of the dist cap...
Spark color not very relevant, needs to be measured with scope. But probably it is okay..