Get a cheap heat gun for fishing... shoot the rad then the head to get the temp... could be as simple as you are running a winter thermostat in your car... or it is stuck closed ... hint when you get a thermostat installed make sure you get the one that fails in the open position.... worst case is your rad hasn't been flushed in a while and your pump is pooched... ie not circulating the water through the block cause the impellers are burned off.
Run the fault codes to start with
next have the temperature SENDER unit check for correct operation
have a compression test done to check for head gasket/cracked head
check for coolant level at the radiator cap as the sender unit needs water around it to indicate properly or else it only reads the metal temperature that it is screwed into and may actually read a lot less causing you to burn the motor
I have experienced where the bottom plastic tank of a radiator has come off and the temp gauge went down with out going up that resulted in a burnt motor.
SOURCE: car runs hot
CHECK YOUR RELAY IN YOUR FUSE BOX UNDER THE HOOD ON THE DRIVERS SIDE INNER FENDER. THE A/C AND THE HEATER RELAY ARE SAME. CHECK AND SEE IF THE A/C REALY WORKS BY TURNING ON YOUR A/C SWITCH. THE ELECTRIC FAN SHOULD START RIGHT AWAY. OTHERWISE YOU HAVE TO WAIT TILL THE ENGINE ACHEIVES OPERATING TEMP TO KICK THE FAN ON. IF ONE DON'T WORK AND OTHER OTHER DOES... SWITCH THE RELAY AND SEE IF IT WORKS. BEEN THERE AND DONE THAT. $9.00 FOR A NEW RELAY AT CHECKER AUTO PARTS.
SOURCE: Gauge reads Hot but truck doesn't appear to be overheating - help
is antifreeze dirty looking and if was changed was it chemically flushed?
SOURCE: temp gauge reads hot then normal then hot again
Could be:
1. Faulty thermostat
2. Intermittent blockage in the cooling system which is retarding the coolant flow
3. Faulty water pump.
4. Any combination of the above.
Action.
1. Don't drive the vehicle in this condition - except to get it to the nearest repair shop. Running in this condition may cause expensive engine damage - such as a cracked head - from overheating which could cost more to repair than the car is worth.
2. (a)Have the entire cooling system flushed thoroughly. At the same time replace the thermostat with the correct new factory item.
(b)Whilst this is being done have the water pump removed and inspected. It may also be on it's last legs and require replacement. If it needs replacing you have no choice but to do this work as your engine is history if running on a worn out or corroded water pump.
If you cannot do this work yourself then entrust it to a quality automotive repair shop.
Ensure the correct coolant is used in the cooling system when re-filling (refer manufacturer spec) and ensure the system is bled of all air. If it is not bled of air after re-filling you will end up with poor coolant flow, hot spots and potential engine damage.
If your system needs topping up from time to time make sure you use the correct coolant for the vehicle.
SOURCE: 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Limited. 122k miles.
2003 Mitsubishi Montero Limited. 97k miles. Temp gauge is erratic when actual temp is normal. How do I fix this?
SOURCE: My 2002 Montero Sport continues to run hot
Make sure there is no air in the cooling system,and that the cooling fan is working,coming on,and going off on it`s own.if it is not ,replace the coolant sensor.
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No codes to run. Fluids are fine. New water pump and thermostat. Gauge works fine new low temp thermo brought it down. Not much power on step mountains tho
Just curious.. check to see if they installed the thermostat in the right direction.... I usually don't run one in the summer... also if the fan is an auto off and on maybe see I it is clicking on in time... ps.. had this one baffle me before... partial airlock on the return rad line... the fix was to open the rad cap when engine was cool and run it with open cap... then message the return line an intake to squeeze out the air.... the air was covering th temperature sensor and causing the temp to raise too high before the fan cut in... good luck.
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