Noise on final drive - 1996 Yamaha Royal Star XVZ 1300 A

A grinding noise when you put the motorcycle into gear and it doesn't move could indicate several issues with the final drive on your Suzuki Intruder. Some possible causes are:

1. Worn or damaged clutch: The clutch may not be engaging properly, preventing power from reaching the rear wheel. A worn or damaged clutch can cause a grinding noise when you try to shift into gear.
2. Faulty gear: The gears inside the final drive may be worn or damaged, preventing them from meshing together properly. This can cause a grinding noise when you try to shift into gear.
3. Low or contaminated gear oil: Low or contaminated gear oil can cause excessive wear on the gears inside the final drive, leading to a grinding noise and reduced performance.
4. Failed final drive: A failed final drive can cause a grinding noise and prevent power from reaching the rear wheel.

If you are not familiar with motorcycle repair, it is recommended to take the bike to a qualified mechanic to diagnose and fix the issue.

Top section says 800cc, bottom section says 650cc?

Final drive lash, bearings of bushings. help in the link

https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+Suzuki+Boulevard+C50%2C+800cc+makes+a+noise+near+the+drive+shaft

BRENDA WHAT type of truck do you have ?

throw out bearing out of adjustment sometimes it can be done thruogh the cabel not always good luck

Did anybody actually read his question? He was asking about a noise in his "shsft drive" motorcycle near the final gear assembly.
To me ot sounds like the backlash is out of adjustment and/or the rear wheel tooth contact needs adjusting.

Okay, possible problem is the final drive isn't quite the final drive because they transfer the power through the final drive to a inner sprocket looking affair which has rubber pumpers or pads to take up the shock. It's not metal on metal it's a rubber drive.

Hard to explain but, what you are hearing is the drive cogs working on a dry rubber bushing, same type system on the Goldwings, there was a special synthetic grease that went on mine and we were good for a ton of miles after that.

Also these rubber drive parts do crack and break apart after about 10,000 miles.

Unfortunately, you can get noise from the transmission, clutch basket, drive shaft, pinion gears or rear wheel on the Royal Star. No way to tell which you have so:

Barring a failure of the clutch basket, a change to a multi-grade synthetic oil THAT DOES NOT HAVE AN ENERGY-CONSERVING SEAL ON THE BOTTLE will quiet gear and clutch noise. Energy-conserving oils tend to make a wet clutch slip. Try Shell Rotella-T (T6) synthetic, available at Walmart for about $19.00 a gallon, I've got 111,000 on a Tour Deluxe with it, and it just keeps going...

The drive shaft on the Royal Star can also make noise if both ends are not properly lubricated; tourers have found that Honda Moly 60 paste on both ends at about 15,000 mile intervals will eliminate that aggravation.

Hypoid gears in the final drive can also be noisy. Short of having the drive disassembled and replacement shims installed, changing to a good synthetic 75W-140 lubricant will quiet or eliminate the whine.

Splines and pins in the final drive and rear wheel assembly can also cause noise. Remove the rear wheel, put a thin layer of Honda Moly 60 paste on the pins, dampers and in the drive spline, ditto with the mating spline on the final drive. I relubricate all of these every time I change rear tires, probably more often than necessary, but it's convenient to do when the wheel is off.

Unfortunately, you can get noise from the transmission, clutch basket, drive shaft, pinion gears or rear wheel on the Royal Star. No way to tell which you have so:

Barring a failure of the clutch basket, a change to a multi-grade synthetic oil THAT DOES NOT HAVE AN ENERGY-CONSERVING SEAL ON THE BOTTLE will quiet gear and clutch noise. Energy-conserving oils tend to make a wet clutch slip. Try Shell Rotella-T (T6) synthetic, available at Walmart for about $19.00 a gallon, I've got 111,000 on a Tour Deluxe with it, and it just keeps going...

The drive shaft on the Royal Star can also make noise if both ends are not properly lubricated; tourers have found that Honda Moly 60 paste on both ends at about 15,000 mile intervals will eliminate that aggravation.

Hypoid gears in the final drive can also be noisy. Short of having the drive disassembled and replacement shims installed, changing to a good synthetic 75W-140 lubricant will quiet or eliminate the whine.

Splines and pins in the final drive and rear wheel assembly can also cause noise. Remove the rear wheel, put a thin layer of Honda Moly 60 paste on the pins, dampers and in the drive spline, ditto with the mating spline on the final drive. I relubricate all of these every time I change rear tires, probably more often than necessary, but it's convenient to do when the wheel is off.

Unfortunately, you can get noise from the transmission, clutch basket, drive shaft, pinion gears or rear wheel on the Royal Star. No way to tell which you have so:

Barring a failure of the clutch, a change to a multi-grade synthetic oil THAT DOES NOT HAVE AN ENERGY-CONSERVING SEAL ON THE BOTTLE will quiet (but not necessarily eliminate) gear and clutch noise. Energy-conserving oils tend to make a wet clutch slip. Try Shell Rotella-T (T6) synthetic, available at Walmart for about $19.00 a gallon. Broken clutch springs and bent or warped clutch and friction plates can also be noisy, but that is typically experienced across the whole speed range; fixing a problem like that would involve replacement of the clutch assembly. The transmission gears are straight-cut for strength, and tend to be noisier than bevel-cut gears, still, if the noise remains annoying after an oil change, have the dealer or, better yet, a veteran Royal Star rider, evaluate the noise to see if it is excessive.

The drive shaft on the Royal Star can also make noise if both ends are not properly lubricated; tourers have found that Honda Moly 60 paste on both ends at about 15,000 mile intervals will eliminate that aggravation.

Hypoid gears in the final drive can also be noisy. Short of having the drive disassembled and replacement shims installed, changing to a good synthetic 75W-140 lubricant will quiet or eliminate the whine.

Splines and pins in the final drive and rear wheel assembly can also cause noise. Remove the rear wheel, put a thin layer of Honda Moly 60 paste on the pins, dampers and in the drive spline, ditto with the mating spline on the final drive. I relubricate all of these every time I change rear tires, probably more often than necessary, but it's convenient to do when the wheel is off.

i have one of these,check the oil level in the final drive and the colour,replace with good quality 80-90 gear oil,if the noise doesnt go away you may find that one of the bearings in the final drive is worn,often what happens on these bikes is that because the final drive is virtually maint free people dont change the oil and the oil becomes contaminated with particles from the crownwheel,pinion,and bearings and the bearings will evetually fail,i change the final drive oil on mine every time i do the engine oil change and after125000km is still dead quiet