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Jim Goulet Posted on Jun 30, 2015
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Alternator or Voltage Regulator or Other?

I'm experiencing low RPM stall and difficulty taking off. I have a voltage indicator light single light that changes from red to yellow to green. Indicator light is red to yellow at RPMs under 2500. Needs higher RPM as it warms up? Any ideas? Thanks!

1 Answer

Rod Roy

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  • Expert 122 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 13, 2015
Rod Roy
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You will need to test the charging system. Try this simple test, hook a voltmeter to the battery and check the voltage with the key turned off. Should be 12 volts. Now start the engine and note the volt meter reading at idle, it should go up to about 13.8 - 14.2 volts. Rev the engine up and note what happens. If the voltage is low at low RPM 12V and then goes up with more RPM like you stated it could be the regulator or the alternator. Start by switching out or trying another voltage regulator. If this does not fix the problem you will need to test and repair the alternator. The alternator out put can be tested by bypassing the regulator. This requires special equipment and know how. I hope this gets you

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 13 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 28, 2009

SOURCE: the wires going to the voltage regulator keep burning up.

Common problem with poor quality parts, the regulator is the problem, the generator is working other wise you would not have fried the wiring, you answered your own question. someone telling porkies to get more money from unsuspecting client?
The regulator controls the voltage not the generator, the generator only supplys the voltage it cannot overcharge unless the regulator is not working properly, simple!

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Arnie Burke

  • 7339 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 19, 2009

SOURCE: Voltage Regulator Problem?

u want to chec alternator as well-ther r test u can do so buy a clymer manual which r very detailed-iv seen hd books in library sec 629

Anonymous

  • 4565 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 24, 2009

SOURCE: which post is which on generator on a 1975 sportster?

the post should be the same as an original. The wires should be green and tan. Green wire goes to the post towards the front wheel and the tan to the post nearest the engine. Don't forget to "polarize" the generator before starting. procedure is in the service manual. Momentarily short between the battery positive post and the field terminal.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Aug 21, 2010

SOURCE: I have a 1992 Yamaha Big Bear 350 Moto 4. With the

check the wiring where it comes out of the side cover on engine mine was same way and it was bare wires there

Anonymous

  • 4565 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 07, 2011

SOURCE: i need to change the

First disconnect the battery negative post. Then, unplug the two wires that run from the regulator to the front part of the engine. Follow the remaining wire from the regulator to the either the battery positive post or to the starter connection and disconnect that wire. Remember how it was routed through the engine and frame area. Unbolt the regulator and bolt the new replacement back up in it's place. There may be a "star type" lock washer between the regulator and the frame on all the mounting bolts. Put his washer back on or in the case there isn't one, put one on each mounting bolt. The purpose of this is to ensure the regulator has a good ground. If if doesn't have a good ground, it will not work correctly. Plug the plug from the regulator into the socket on the front of the engine and run the remaining long wire along the frame and back to where the original wire came from, either the battery positive post or the starter connection. Some people cut the original wire and splice in the new wire from the new regulator but I don't recommend it. It's a problem waiting to happen. Reconnect the battery negative post. When working with a battery, always disconnect the negative post first and reconnect the negative last. This prevents damage to the battery or motorcycle and possibly prevents injury to you due to arcing the battery against the frame ground.

Good Luck
Steve
Steve

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99 Blazer V6 4x4 Intermittent start problem New battery Alternator? good Start a few times then won't, no sounds/lights Voltage read low Charge battery and it's good for a few days Any suggestions

When the vehicle is running check voltage at the battery . should be 13.1 to 14.1 volts , if not the alternator isn't charging . Doesn't matter if the alternator is new , has to have B+ voltage on the heavier wire connected to back of the alternator . The other wire connected to the alternator comes from the PCM/ECM . Is the Battery symbol light on when vehicle is running ?
The powertrain control module (PCM) or vehicle control module (VCM) turns the generator ON or OFF, by applying voltage to the generator control/monitoring circuit 225 (RED). The regulator in the generator also requests the charge indicator located in the instrument panel cluster (IPC), using the same circuit. When the regulator monitors that either a voltage high or voltage low condition exists with the engine running, a ground path to the PCM/VCM will be provided through the generator control/monitoring circuit 225. The PCM/VCM then sends a serial data message to the IPC requesting the charge indicator to be turned ON. The IPC monitors serial data messages from the PCM/VCM, and turns the charge indicator ON when requested. It mite be best if you take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop , unless you like making parts stores rich , buying unneeded parts .
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Alternator or Voltage Regulator?

As a general rule, voltage regulators either work or do not; either-or.
This leans more to the alternator. Hook up a volt meter to the battery. Check your voltage engine off, then start it. watch the meter, if it stays below 12 volts and then suddenly jumps up when you reach 2500 rpm perhaps it's the regulator, if it slowly climbs as you describe with the lights your alt may be weak.
Do you have a lot of lights and accessories that stay on? Especially lights-extra lights can put quite a drain. Good luck to you!
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