Question about 1979 kawasaki Z 650 SR

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My 79 SR650 will start and idle very well. Will not accelerate

This bike I"m the original owner. I did have installed an electronic ignition. The bike has sat for three year in my garage. With no gas in it and clean oil. When I put gas in it the carbs overflow leaked so I removed the carb rack and cleaned them. I have done that before with great results. After reinstalling carbs, with no leaks, the bike fired right up but will not take any trottle without balking and then dying out. Have not checked compression or valve clearence. Where do I go from here?

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I had this same problm years ago....the accelerator pump diaphram is perforated. $20 kawi part. You have to take off the carb stack and thereis a single diaphram and provides for the 4x set. For real. I paid a really sharp mechanic 300 bucks and he he knew exactly what the problem was. Wrth the money....good luck

Posted on Jul 16, 2012

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  • kawasaki Master
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Recheck the carburator/s main jets, blow them out with compressed air, they could be blocked.
Hope this helps!

Posted on Jul 11, 2009

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Motor stops


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
15. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
16. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
17. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Jul 07, 2014 | 2006 Yamaha yZ 450 F

1 Answer

Dash lights only work intermittently


Hi, Anonymous you have some serious electrical issues not really for the inexperienced but you are willing to take a shot at it, all the information you will need to fix your bike is in the checklist and the blue links below and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a "LOAD" test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, points/condenser ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. Fuel tank contaminated with ethanol sludge.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
16. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
17. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Mar 20, 2017 | Lifan Motorcycles

1 Answer

Bike will idle ok but while riding it will die sometimes backfire, i took the battery out to charge and allso put some tesco supermarket petrol in. It ran fine before i did that


Hi, Markbonser you may have gotten bad fuel and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
15. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
16. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
17. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/103-02-03-r1-mechanical-help/261483-bike-starts-then-dies-while-riding-idle.html
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My yamaha yzf 600 1997 thundercat just died. Doesn't want to start no lights on dash come on. When I connect jumper cables from car to bike all lights come on and bike starts but dies as soon as jumper...


Hi, Petrusm_jc7 and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
15. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
16. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
17. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Hi, Elec2512 and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
15. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
16. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
17. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/57-garage-mechanical-help/91441-bike-stalling-when-i-stop-wont-stay-idle.html
http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-maintenance-technical/14953-03-still-stalling-idle-input-please.html
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OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

May 19, 2010 | 2003 Yamaha YZF-R6

1 Answer

Distributor shaft run-out with point system


I'm a bit confused here. The 1979 Sportster didn't have a distributor. I think 1969 was the last year that Sportsters had a distributor in them. On a '79 model, the first year that had the electronic ignition system, it was quite common to see them converted back to points type ignition. The original electronic system was unreliable and often failed. It was much more expensive to repair the electronic system than it was to replace it with an older points type system.

With that being said, most all the early Sportsters as well as the Big Twins had another weak point in their ignition system, the mechanical advance unit that is behind the breaker plate. The pivots for the fly wieghts will wear out and cause the ignition system not to return to it's proper retarded timing. It is best to simply replace the entire unit. Make sure you get one with the needle bearings in the flyweights. These will last a pretty good while. The standard unit will usually start to give problems within about two years if you ride very much. Before you take the breaker plate out of your bike, make sure you mark it so you can get it back in nearly the same position once you replace the mechanical advance unit. It would still be advisable to check the ignition timing once you get the point back in and set.

Nov 11, 2009 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLS 1000

5 Answers

Plugs Fowling 79 shovel


Install a Dyna, or equivalent, electronic ignition.

Jun 07, 2009 | Harley Davidson Harley-Davidson Motorcycle...

1 Answer

1981 KZ 650(SR650)D flat spot 1500-2000rpm. and cough at idle hot


i have a kz650 myself. id say you need to check the valve clearances if theyve never been done. this can cause exactly what you describe with stalling and almost stalling at a light when hot... try to find a kz650 forum and become a member there. there are a few of them

Apr 05, 2017 | 1981 kawasaki Z 650 SR

1 Answer

I have a 2003 Fatboy that has an unusual idle.


Hello Jim...
Ok, the ignition is stock...
**Have you removed the ignition cover and looked at the ignition sensor? Is resin dripping down the plate? IF so, replace the sensor, but that may or may not rectify this problem.

**YOU CAN Also remove the sensor plate and clean/inspect the pickups on the back of the sensor plate. Be sure to mark/scribe the plate prior to removal so you are back to the same timing.

**Also, check to make sure the


I also need to ask, -does your bike BACKFIRE upon Acceleration?
-does it BACKFIRE upon Deceleration?

And your idle should be set at approx. 950 rpm.

Let me know if the above has been helpful Jim...
-Marko


Jan 23, 2009 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

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