1992 suzuki 750 it's got spark but won't start what could it be 
Engines require three things, spark-at the right moment, fuel, and compression. If you're sure you have a strong and consistent spark, move on to your fuel. Drain everything you can and start with fresh NON OXYGENATED (no alcohol) fuel. In recent years 1/2 the troubles I see is from poor quality fuel. I spray a shot of starting fluid into the airbox and if the bike starts or at least coughs that tells me I have a fuel problem. Last but not least perform a compression test. The psi isn't as important as each cylinder should be with 7lbs of the rest.
After an attempt to start, pull the plugs, are they wet or dry? If wet crank the engine over for 20-25 seconds with the plugs out and re attempt a start choke off and a light shot of starting fluid. Give this a look and report back your results. Good luck
SOURCE: suzuki gsxr 750 does not start sparks batt ok,
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Initially, perform below tests:
At this point, you may want to check fuel delivery from the tank down to the carbs.
Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.
SOURCE: need the factory vacuum settings at what idle rpm.
there in no factory setting for vacuum at the intakes, you just need them all to be level with each other so that the carbs are balanced. you need to read all at the same time while the bike is idling, adjustment to one can effect the others.
SOURCE: need factory vacuum settings for a 1992 suzuki
May I suggest a trip to your local library. Cycle repair books should be in 646 stacks of reference.
SOURCE: My 2001 suzuki gsxr 750 won't downshift all of a
Your shifter cam bolt has backed out, this is a common problem on earlier GSXR's. Happened twice on my 2000, both times during race weekends.
Stop riding the bike and shifting at all and do the following repair:
Remove clutch cover - you'll drain some oil so make sure you have a drip pan underneath
Remove the 5 the clutch housing plate bolts - careful as they have pretty stiff springs behind them providing torsion
Remove all the clutch plates - make sure you keep the same order and re-install the same way; matter of fact if you have never replaced your clutch plates, do it along with this repair.
Once the clutch case is basically empty, you will see at the lower left a small assembly that looks a bit like a tuning fork, at the end of the shifter shaft. There is also a cam there with rounded cogs. There is a 8mm or 10 mm hex head bolt that holds this cam, and I'm sure it has backed out and is causing the cam and shifter to not engage the gears properly.
Remove the cam bolt. Spray some compressed air or even a light spray of brake cleaner in the threaded area where the bolt you just removed is. Make sure the threads are clean and dry.
Place the cam bolt and assembly back in its position, and take some RED loctite to the shifter cam bolt threads. Make sure to torque the bolt to specifications, I think it's 24 or 28 nm.
Let the bolt set for 24-8 hours, then reassemble the clutch and replace the clutch cover gasket. Top off the oil and go riding.
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