Question about Motorcycles
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Won't start?
With just this info.Not knowing if the engine is stock or has bigger cams or high comp pistons.I would say check the starter solenoid by running jumper wire from one side to the other.then check ALL connections for corrosion and tightness
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
SOURCE: 82 harley sportster brake light
try starting with the bulb. brake light bulbs are dual fillament, meaning you have 2 bulbs in one basicly. if your brake side has blown then the tail light could still work. Or try checking the brake light switches, one on front brake and one on rear brake pedal. to test switches disconect wires and join them together with small bit of wire or paper clip. this will make the light come on meaning you have a bum switch.
if you have only been using the rear brake, that has an adjustable switch, may need to mess with it
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
check fuel level, u may need to check the flow of petrol to it,,Also if that does not solve you may need to service the carb and check fuel filter,air filter etc...
Posted on Aug 31, 2009
To change the clutch cable on you '79 Sporty, you'll have to take the outer primary cover off. To do this, you'll have to drain the oil from the primary, take the left side foot peg off, and loosen the primary chain adjuster on the bottom side of the primary. Loosen the locknut and use an allen wrench or hex key to screw the adjuster bolt downward.
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Then, remove the large "plug" towards the rear of the cover. Inside, you'll see something that looks like a nut but with no threads in it held in by a small spring. This the the lock nut, remove it. Below it is what looks like another nut with a slotted adjuster bolt sticking out. Remover the bolts from around the primary cover and break it loose from the engine. While turning the adjuster screw at the rear of the cover inward, remove the cover.
The cable connects to the cluch release mechanism. By turning the "link" downwards, you can disconnect it from the mechanism. Notice which way the "link" in attached to the release mechanism. Take the "link" off the end of the clutch cable.
Break the lock nut loose at the threaded cable adjuster on the outside of the case and screw the adjuster all the way out of the primary cover. Disconnect the cable at the handlebar lever and your cable is out.
Reinstall the new cable in the reverse order. When replacing the outer primary cover, make sure you use a new gasket on the cover as well as on the foot peg boss. The "foot peg boss gasket" is very important. You'll see an aluminum boss with a threaded rod sticking out of it that holds your left foot peg on. There is a round gasket that goes over this threaded rod and seals against the boss. If you leave this off, your bike will leak oil around this threaded rod when your foot peg goes on. Make sure you specifically ask for the "foot peg boss gasket" when you buy the new primary gasket. It's just a round gasket a bit larger than a quarter.
As you put the primary cover back on, there is a spring on the primary chain adjuster. Part of the spring is in the primary cover and the other part is in the engine. You'll see how it goes in. There is a large stud in that area that the outer primary cover slides up on. Adjust the tension on the primary chain by removing the "plug" at the top of the primary cover. You want 3/4" to 7/8" up and down play in the chain with the engine cold.
On the adjuster, as you're installing the outer cover, turn the ajuster screw back into the clutch release mechanism by turning the screw backwards. Once you have the outer primary cover completely installed, you must adjust the release mechanism. Adjust the screw inwards until you feel a resistance, then back the screw off about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, insert the "lock nut" and spring, and install the "plug". Then, using the cable adjuster on the outside of the cover, adjust the cable. Add oil.
Posted on Oct 26, 2009
Rebuilding the top end on your Ironhead is not really that difficult to do. You start by taking the tank off the frame, then the carb and intake manifold off. With those off, take the four bolts out of each head and remove the heads. With the heads off, take the four bolts out off of the studs to remove the cylinders from the engine cases. One word of caution. When you remove the cylinders, have the piston up high enough in the cylinder so that you can lift the cylinders and stuff shop towels or something into the case before completely removing the cylinder. This will keep bits of carbon, broken rings, or whatever from falling into the case.
Now, that you've got it torn down, no need in doing all this work and not refreshing the engine. I'd have the cylinders checked to see if they needed boring. If not, I'd still put a new set of rings in the engine. They don't cost that much. Have the machine shop break the glaze in your cylinders if you don't have a flexhone. If you have a lot of miles on the bike, a valve job would be in order as well. Clean all the old gaskets from everything. If you have a valve job done on the heads or you've got oil leaks at the rocker boxes, remove them and replace the gaskets. This is a good time to check the rocker arms and rocker arm bushings. Replace them if needed.
Once everything is ready, put the rocker boxes back on the heads. Use good gaskets and a good sealer. Put locktite on the bolts so that they don't come loose. Once you get the heads back on the engine, you probably won't be able to to get to the bolts. Install the base gasket on the cases. Put the new rings on the piston making sure you get the right ring in the right groove and you put them in with the right side up. Refer to the instructions that comes with the rings to determine which side of each ring should be installed in the up position. Oil the rings thoroughly and space the end gaps around the piston at 60° or so apart from each other, do not align the ring end gaps. Carefully slide the cylinder down over the piston and rings. Use your fingers to compress the rings so that the cylinder slides down over the rings easily. Do not use force or you may break a ring. Torque the cylinder base nuts to 35-40 foot pounds. Now, install the other cylinder using the same techniques.
Next comes the heads. Choose the head gasket you are going to use. They come in two thicknesses. I prefer the thicker gasket. It will cost you a bit of compression but they seal better. Spray each side of the copper gasket with CopperCoat spray adhesive and position the gasket so that the oil drain hole is properly aligned. Carefully set the head down on the cylinder without disturbing the head gasket. Install the four head bolts but only snug one of them down. Then install the other head the same way.
Now, the reason you only snugged one head bolt down was you must align the intake ports with the intake manifold. Hold the intake manifold in between the intake ports of the heads. Notice the gap at the intake ports. If it is wider or narrower at the front than it is at the back, you must "rotate" the heads until the gap is even. Once this is done, you can tighten the head bolts. Tighten them in a criss cross pattern to a torque of 60-70 foot pounds.
Now you can install and adjust your pushrods. Use new O-rings on the pushrod tubes. Bring the front piston to Top Dead Center. Use a common drinking straw in the spark plug hole to determine when the piston is at it's highest point. Do NOT use anything that is hard or that will break. You could damage the piston or break the tester off in the cylinder making you have to pull the head off again. With the piston at top center, adjust each pushrod longer until you can't turn it with you fingers, then back off until you can just turn it freely. Lock the locknut down tightly. It's better to leave the pushrod a bit loose than a too tight. Do the same with the other pushrod. Put the pushrod tube into it's proper position. Now, bring the rear piston to top center and install the pushrods and tubes on that cylinder. It makes no difference which pushrod goes in what position as they are all the same length on the Sportster.
Now you can install the carb. Use new "rubber bands" on the intake clamps. Make sure you position the intake so that the carb is level. Position the clamps and "rubber bands" so that you won't have any vacuum leaks and tighten them down. Once the carb is installed on the intake, check the throttle for proper operation. You don't want to start your bike only to find out that the throttle is wide open. Install the fuel tank and you should be ready to go.
Posted on May 31, 2010
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