Question about 1997 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

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What are the stator coil resistances on a 1997 kawasaki vulcan 1500

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I'm going through the same thing, go to www.vulcanforums.com and look up your model bike, there are already discussions about the how to ohm out the stator and and VR.

Posted on May 23, 2017

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: remove a gas tank

there are 2 bolts at the front of the seat, takeoff the seat, unsrew the bolts. that is the only thing holding it on. push the tank forward a bit, then lift up. there are breather tubes under the tank. be careful, they are difficult to get back on depending on the length. there are 2 bolts at the front of the seat, takeoff the seat, unsrew the bolts. that is the only thing holding it on. push the tank forward a bit, then lift up. there are breather tubes under the tank. be careful, they are difficult to get back on depending on the length.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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SOURCE: stator

Behind the left engine cover. The engine must be almost completely removed to change it out.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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SOURCE: where is the slave cylinder to bleed the clutch

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/kawasaki-motorcycle-vulcan-88-vn1500a6-us-1992-clutch/o/m4620sch62090

this schematic list the brake breather. I hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 05, 2009

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SOURCE: i need wiring schematics for a 2001 kawasaki

Have 2002 Vulcan 1600 Drifter. The tail and brake lights will not work. They were working rear turn signals do. It blew the fuse twice, now it is not blowing the fuse but still no lights. Got power to the fuse and leaving it not arriving at the rear light. The plug in,before it goes inside the rear fender, what color wires are what so I can check if things are arriving there O.K.?

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

oldmanewtoys
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SOURCE: KAWASAKI VULCAN 1500 CHARGING PROBLEM

If you are getting 13volt output and it revs and gets 14.5volts it would appear to be charging. As you would get a drop in voltage if it were not. Stator is there for working. Check your voltage relay as it may be sticking which would cause it to run on system and not be sending charge to battery. Poor ground would also keep battery from being properly charged

Posted on Mar 30, 2010

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1988 Kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan not charging


Hi, Wally before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing and printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
help 1500 not charging battery and other electrical issues
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki/kawasaki-vulcan-owners-manuals

Jul 29, 2017 | 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

1 Answer

What are the stator coils resistances on a 1996 kawasaki vulcan 1500


check your manual,cause you didnt tell us what it was

Apr 24, 2015 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do you take the stator cover off of a 1997 kawasaki vulcan classic ?


not sure of this exact model but there will be a cover on the opposite side of your clutch, i do believe that this stator is bolted right into the stator but if its not it should be self explanitory once you get the cover off

Jun 10, 2010 | 1997 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

1 Answer

KAWASAKI VULCAN 1500 CHARGING PROBLEM


If you are getting 13volt output and it revs and gets 14.5volts it would appear to be charging. As you would get a drop in voltage if it were not. Stator is there for working. Check your voltage relay as it may be sticking which would cause it to run on system and not be sending charge to battery. Poor ground would also keep battery from being properly charged

Mar 30, 2010 | 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

2 Answers

Not charging, removed the regulator, has three yellow wires from the 3 phase stator, the other three wires I need to know where they go/come_from. I imagine one must be +B the other two??? The three phase...


(I am the author of the reference thread on TriumphRat that wasposted by another respondent)

Not personally intimate with the Vulcan, but this is a 'conventional' motorcycle 3 phase stator energized by a crank driven magnetic rotor. 
The stator is connected in delta to the R/R. There should be NO measurable resistance from any of the three stator output terminals to engine ground - it should be completely isolated.   If you can measure a low resistance (not clear if your 0.2 ohms is from terminal to terminal or terminal to engine ground) then your stator is fried. 
Regarding the R/R connections - the third wire on the output is one of two functions (unfortunately without benefit of a schematic I cannot definitively conclude for you): either a 'voltage sense' wire, or in some Kawasakis they feed one phase of the stator output back out again for use in the starter cut/latch circuit. It should be reasonably easy to differentiate which it is. 
Good Luck! 

Aug 11, 2009 | 1993 kawasaki VN 750 Vulcan

1 Answer

Wont start


How is the stator plate and coil? Do you have a new plug in? Are you getting fuel to the carb?

May 25, 2009 | 2004 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

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