The bike has been sitting for 3 years. I just rebuilt the carbs, soaked them in carb dip.
New jets (OEM)
New carb mounting rubbers
New fuel filter
Gas tank flushed
Starts and idles beautifully. I was able to sync the carbs as well as adjust air mixture.
The problem is when I give it gas, immediately bogs and dies. If I let go of the throttle right away, it will go back to idle
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Re: Bogs past idle
When you go to acceleration ,there is a power circuit in the carbys that allows for extra fuel to increase the rpms.
it is either a power valve or pump operation. This circuit is not working ( blocked or non-valves not fitted correctly)
if there is no such circuit , there is still a blockage in the main jet and emulsion tube circuits.
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Probably a carb issue. It sounds as though the idle jet is clear but the main jet is blocked. So your bike starts and idles, but as soon as you ask for more fuel, not enough gets through the main jet and the bike bogs down. Buy a manual and a can of carb cleaner, take the carb off, remove the bowl, remove the jets and leave them soaking in carb cleaner overnight. You might need to use some fine wire to poke through the jets if they are very blocked..
It sounds like one of two things. One, the jets in the carb may be clogged. The way you're describing it, it sounds like the main jet in the carb is clogged. You're running off the slow speed jet. When you open the choke (enricher) you're adding a bit more fuel and air improving the performance a bit. If it's te carb, it needs to be completely disassembled and soaked in a professional quality carb cleaner and thoroughly gone through to ensure all passageways are clear.
The next problem is the exhaust system. I've seen bikes do this before when changing a camshaft. Remove a stock cam and install a high performance cam and the bike will no longer run. The reason is that the baffles in the exhaust system were so restrictive that the engine could no longer "breathe" with them in there. Removed the baffles and the engine ran fine but was too loud for the owner's liking. We replaced the stock system with a free flowing high performance muffler system and the bike ran great.
First question since i am assuming it was just sitting around for some time if i am correct you need to pull the carb remove the float bowl and components if everything was done correctly with your rebuild the likely problem is your carb is gummed up remove everything in the carb low speed jet etc. soak everything in sea foam fuel cleaner overnight and hopefully you have some compressed air and blow out that low speed jet and passage way pay close attention that you have see fluid coming from the other end and check the jet make sure it is unclogged hold it up to the light.
Yes, your carburetor needs to come off and be disassembled and put into a carburetor solution and soak for at least 2 - 24 hours depending on how bacd it looks when you take it apart.
Then rinsed with water and then blown out with compressed air, in every orfice in the carb body and jets
Reassemble and she'll puurr like a kitten again and have great response, run like new.
Ever since they have been putting ethanol in the gasoline, i've been doing a lot of carb cleanings.
Your gas tank will get a build up of ethanol residue that turns thick, it eventually clogs up petcocks and fuel filters and the little holes in the sides of the carb jets.
Soaking them brings them back to life without scratching, soak everything taken out of the carb except o-rings, gaskets,and float. Then soak the whole carb body and all the jets.
So i would suggest that when you do the carb clean, you drain the old gas out of the gas tank, and start off with a fresh tank of gas, and a new fuel filter.
You can also add seafoam to your fuel and this seems to help prevent corrosion of the ethanol.
You say the bike is a custom so I don't have a good idea of what we're dealing with here but it shouldn't be that difficult.
Most custom bikes have carbureted engines. The first thing to do is drain the fuel tank and get some fresh fuel and a good battery. Check the oil in the tank. As long as the oil is showing on the dip stick, proceed to start the engine. Do not add oil at this time because the engine may be "oil sumped". When they do this, the oil in the tank seeps past the check ball in the oil pump and accumilates in the bottom end of the engine. When you start the engine up, the oil pump will scavenge the oil out and back into the oil tank. Once the engine runs for a few minutes, then turn the engine off and check the oil level. Fill it to the lower mark on the stick, full cold level.
Now for the biggie, the carb. If the engine has been sitting for two years, the jets in the carb are probably clogged up. When the fuel left in the float bowl evaporated, it left behind a thick gummy deposit made up of the additives that are added to gasoline. This mess will plug up the jets in your carb. It would be advisable to remove the carb, disassemble it, and soak it in carb cleaner overnight. Then check all passageways in the carb and the jets to make sure they're open. Reinstall the carb and fire your bike up. If I were in the Yuma area, I'd do it all for you but I live in Georgia. Sorry but good luck getting it back going. It's not difficult. Just keep looking for "resources".
This sounds like an air leak is making the fuel/air mixture too lean. Any air leaks between the carb and the head will lean the mixture. Old, hard and cracked rubber manifold parts are the usual culprits. Old gaskets and "O" ring seals can leak air also. A bad head gasket seal happens at times also, as does an exhaust valve not fully seating. Air leaks are the idle speed problem.
A different problem is likely present in the carbs and that is what is causing the rich fuel smell. The carbs must be balanced. Example > If three of four carbs are perfectly balanced and one carb is not, then the 3 are "driving" the 4th carb. This will cause gas to spit into the air cleaner from the "bad" carb and can cause a backfire or two. Special vacuumgauges are needed to balance the carbs. Also be aware the carbs must be scycronizsed as well. The slides on all four carbs must lift at exactly the same time when the throttle is cracked.
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
I don't get paid for my answers but I do take pride in them, and I am only trying to help. So if you will, > > A “very helpful” rating for these answers?Thanks!
sounds like the main jets are partly pluged, you must remve all brass jets and seats including needle jet and its slide soak in carb cleaner and blow out with compressed air only.. hold up to bright light to verify if all are clean. jim
I'm new to the site and new to carbs. I bought a bike last week that had been sitting in a barn for a couple years the engine hadn't been running in over a year. I was able to get it running the first day after cleaning out the field mouse home occupying the air filter chamber and swapping the old gas for new gas. The bike ran and idled fine but the left carb (dual carb setup Keihin) poured gas from the tube coming out the bottom. I did some research and found out the floats may be stuck. I went ahead and ordered new floats and float bowl gaskets. I took the carbs apart apart as much as I could, using Berryman parts cleaner to soak all the metal parts I could get off. I put everything back together and put the new floats in yesterday. I started the engine and not only is the gas is still pouring out the bottom of the left carb, but now the bike is idleing very fast. The idle adjustment is backed out completely. When putting the carbs back together, I screwed all the jets back in all the way. I screwed in the Pilot Air screw, the one with the spring, all the way in, then backed it out 1 1/2 turns. Not sure if this has anything to do with the idle. As far as the floats go, does it sound like I need to replace the float valves too?
,The seats on the jets, or the o-rings on the needle valves that the floats control are probably leaking.,,,