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Where can I get a simple wiring diagram?

Positive to starter by push button switch with frame negative. Using a DEAF regulator to generator and a volt meter.

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  • Gregg Mahin
    Gregg Mahin Oct 05, 2017

    Hi, Veikko I would really love to help you with your bike question but due to the magnitude of yesterday's solar flare the batteries in my crystal ball are dead and my mental telepathy headset circuitry was melted. I need the year, make, and model of your motorcycle please click on the word "COMMENT" below and provide this information in the box that will open and then click on the green comment box in the bottom right-hand corner after it posts I will receive an "ALERT" icon that will allow me to respond to your information. Good luck and have a wonderful day.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Benimur
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SOURCE: I don't understand my wiring diagram.How does the

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

If the starter relay in your version uses blue / white and red / white wires, then to my understanding, connection would be:

  • blue / white - goes to the start switch and is supplied with +12 on starting;
  • red / white - goes to the starter circuit cut-out relay. This cut-out relay controls whether the starting relay gets a ground based on neutral/gear and clutch lever conditions.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

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  • 55 Answers

SOURCE: No start or turn over. Battery registers 13 volts. Stopped for

Its a bad earth between battery and chassis or starter and chassis

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

Testimonial: "bournetoride: Your suggestion on earth was excellent. Turns out battery could not pass a load test. No prior indication of failure. "

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 76 harley fx. I can't figure out the

It actually should have a lot more stuff such as headlight, taillight, brake light, turn signals, etc. What is is that you want to know? If you want a stock wiring diagram, contact me at wd4ity@bellsouth.net I think I have one here somewhere.

Posted on Jan 01, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: connecting wire from regulator

The large wire from the voltage regulator goes to the Positive side of the battery. As an alternative, you can also connect it to the starter where the large cable comes from the battery positive terminal to the starter. I think that's where most Softail models have the regulator wire connected.

If you connect it to the starter, all this does it make it a bit easier to connect since the battery is inside the horseshoe type oil tank. Basically, you are using the battery cable as an extension cord to the battery to keep from having to fish the wire up to the battery.

Posted on Feb 01, 2010

  • 60 Answers

SOURCE: i replaced the starter relay

When you push the start button and the relay clicks the lead from the relay to the starter should have 12volts. If it doesnt you either the relay is bad or the cable(lead) is bad from the relay to the starter.Hope this helps.
D.

Posted on Sep 27, 2010

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What year was a Case 420-B-H backhoe serial #6137646 produced and is it 6 or 12 volt and positive or negative ground ?


the tractor was manufactured in the 1960's
a model the same, was recorded with a serial number 6128117 was made in 1959 so it would be early to mid 1960
If the battery is missing there are several pointers you can check as to the voltage
firstly the coil will be marked as 12 volt or 6 volt ( normally on the bottom)
next the generator will be tagged as 12 volt or 6 volt
the regulator will be tagged as 12v or 6 volt as will the starter motor manufacturers changed over form positive ground electrics very early 1950's
however if you look carefully at the battery terminals the positive terminal will be considerably larger than the negative cable terminal ( post size)and if it is a negative to ground , which I am inclined it to be , the negative ground cable will be attached to the engine or frame
I got the dates from a site --yesterdaystractors.com
if you are not satisfied contact case manufacturers , technical division or go google and type in - manufacture date of case 420-b-h as there are forums and other sites that may have the information you want

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You need to check the charging system. To do this you need to fully charge the battery and you'll need a good Digital Volt Ohm Meter. Using the meter's function selector switch, set it to DC VOLTS with a range of 20 volts or greater. Connect the red meter lead to the positive battery post and the black meter lead to the negative battery post. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. After about a minute or so, your meter should read between 14.5 and 15.0 volts. Any lower than 14 volts, your battery will not be charged.

If you don't have the minimum voltage at the battery in the previous test, you need to check the
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Follow the two wires from the voltage regulator on the front of the bike until you find the plug where it plugs into the lead coming from the alternator inside the engine case. Unplug this connection and look into the end coming from the engine. There are two pins inside this plug. This is where you're going to check the voltage output of the alternator. Since this voltage is AC, it makes no difference which meter lead goes into which pin, just don't let them touch each other or the engine case while take the measurement. Put the meter's function switch in the "AC VOLTS" 50 volt range position. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Insert the probes from the meter to the pins from the alternator. You should read at least 25 volts.

If you don't get at least 25 volts, the stator in your bike is bad. If you do get the 25 volts but not the 14.5 volts at the battery in the previous test, the regulator could be bad. Make sure that the regulator is grounded to the frame properly. I like to put a "star type" lockwasher between the regulator and the frame on at least one of the mounting bolts to insure a good ground. I hope this helps.

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1 Answer

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To check the output of the charging system, first, you must start with a fully charged battery. Then connect your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) across the battery. Red meter lead to the positive post and the black meter lead to the negative post of the battery. Put the meter's function selection switch in DC VOLTS, 25 VOLTS OR GREATER scale. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Your meter should read between 14.5 to 15.0 volts.

If not, find where the regulator plugs into the alternator. A Big Twin is in the front of the engine and the Sportster is behind rear cylinder. In the stator side of the plug, there are two metal contacts. This is where you're going to check the voltage output of your stator. Put the meter's function switch in AC VOLTS, 50 VOLT OR GREATER scale. Start the engine and insert either meter lead into one metal contact and the other lead into the other contact. Do not allow the leads to touch each other or the engine case. Bring the engine to a high idle. If you're working on a Big Twin, you should be reading at least 30 volts, a Sportster should read about 25 volts. If you don't read this much, your stator is bad, If you do read this much, it's probably the regulator. But, since you said that you've changed the regulator at least once, I'd guess maybe another problem. Make sure you regulator is grounded to the frame. I always put one of those star type lock washers between the regulator and the frame on both mounting bolts. The regulator must be grounded.

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The first thing we want to do is to "polarize" the generator. Using a jumper wire, MOMENTARILY touch the wire from the "A" terminal to the positive terminal of the battery. Just make it spark, that's all.

Now, with the battery FULLY CHARGED, connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to the battery. Red meter lead to the positive and black meter lead to the negative. Put the meter's function switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLTS or greater scale. Start the engine bring it to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5 to 15.0 volts. If not, test the generator.

First, remove all the wires from both the "A" and the "F" terminals. put your meter's function switch to DC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Connect the red meter lead to the "A" terminal and the black meter lead to a good ground. Start the engine and bring the revs up to about 2000 rpm. MOMENTARILY, connect a jumper lead form ground to the "F" terminal of the generator. Your volt meter should read 25-30 volts.

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2 Answers

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When this happens, this usually means that your genset is not creating voltage. First thing I would do is disconnect your remote start wire from the genset, this will eliminate the start switch inside the RV. For a shorted remote start switch can cause you genset to shutdown. Second, place a volt meter at a spot where you will be able to read genset voltage. If no voltage is available and your voltage regulator is new, then the problem is with either the rotor or stator. The rotor is the easiest check. You need to reach the brushes. Take a resistance reading, which should be around 20 ohms. Clean the rings and make sure there is enough length on the brushes, at least over 1/2". Next, flash the fields using a 12Vdc battery. Use rubber gloves when doing this. Place the positive side to the ring closest to the bearing and negative goes to the back ring. This is done while genset is running so be careful with rotating parts. Have a volt meter on the output wires. Once you flash the fields the voltage should increase to over 50Vac. If it does then your stator is bad since you installed a new voltage regulator. If the voltage does not increase when flashing, then the rotor is bad.

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