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Had front end crash and bike started after but has been left for some time and now won't start -bought a new battery and still no power -no ignition light - the headlight cluster has since fallen off

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  • Motorcycles Expert
  • 386 Answers

Gone into sleep mode???

Posted on Apr 14, 2017

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

robotek
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SOURCE: My MT-03 engine shuts down while driving and won't start again.

Checking the colour of the plug may tell you what the general state of tune if like for the bike, but the sudden stops sure sounds like ignition system failing. Fuel delivery still there, although it may well be flooding/overfueling for some reason when the problem occurs.  I suppose you have checked the VIN (RM021000000000301 to RM021000000008715)  just to be sure that your bike if not one of those affected by the recall. I would be asking the Yamagents to check for the mods/recall to be sure that whatever the solution is has actually been done to yours. The reference to wet weather would be inclining me to follow that up to the max. Sounds too close to the problem to not be it. 

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

  • 161 Answers

SOURCE: Hi, headlights turn off when power on and bike wont start.

You may be pinching a wire..

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

  • 185 Answers

SOURCE: no electrical power to my bike.

Try another Ignition switch to see if any power is available. Unfortunately this is a problem that can't be solved here, wiring is something that needs to be diagnosed by someone working on the bike.

Posted on Mar 23, 2010

ckoira57
  • 267 Answers

SOURCE: bike has no power but

It is more likely to be either the Regulatoer/Rectifier or the Magneto coils or pick-up. Your magneto sends a series of pulses at various revs. This is changed and evened out by the Reg/Rec. First step is to check quality of all connections from magneto upwards to all relevent components. IE; ignition coil, CDI unit, Reg/Rec, battery (if applic.). If the bike normally runs with a city light or running light when ignition is on, then check all switches for crossed, pinched or broken wire connections, especially around headstem area. Ideally, a service manual with relevent ohm resistance figures and a multi-meter should lead you to the problem. CDI units, Reg/Rec, Magneto Coils and pulse coils are very expensive as are ignition coils. They will all be affected eventually if the problem is not identified and fixed. Goodluck.

Posted on Nov 26, 2010

  • 5370 Answers

SOURCE: Full battery charge, all fuses good...turn

Check the main fuse.It is a flat fuse (30a) and plugs into the top of the starter solenoid. There should be a spare fuse on the rubber solenoid mount. Remove the fuse out.Then wait for 5 minutes and then reinsert the fuse back.Its on the start relay near battery on red cable, two screws hold it in.The fuse box should be located under the seat by the battery.The fuse IS required in order to start it, because the current that runs to the starter button and then to the solenoid coil DOES run through the fuse. So if the fuse is dead, your starter will be dead. ------------So check the fuse if its bad, blown, shorted then replace the fuse.But if the fuse is fine then remove it for 5 minutes then reinsert it.---------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Posted on Jun 25, 2011

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Hi, Isaac and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
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Hi, Ramessu and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
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5. Faulty starter button/switch.
6. Faulty jiffy stand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
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Hi I have a Baotian 50cc bt49q 9r. Bike won't start I've cleaned the carb drained old fuel etc, bought a new battery and a new spark plug.CDI might be faulty which I have ordered or the coil pack ?


Hi, Neil and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
8. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
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10. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP, CKP, O2 and/or BAS).
11. Security alarm needs a reset.
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Hi, Anonymous nice novella and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enrichner.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. A severely discharged or damaged battery, you need 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
13. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
14. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
15. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
16. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
17. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
18. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
19. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
20. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
21. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
22. Check for engine trouble codes.
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
8. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP, CKP, O2 and/or BAS).
11. Security alarm needs a reset.
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      Turn the key to the ignition position. Quickly press both turn signal indicators, until a light on the dash flashes.

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      Enter the first digit of your 5-digit security PIN by pressing in the left-turn switch the same number of times. So if your PIN is 76543, you should press the left-turn switch six times.

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      Press the right-turn switch once to store the number and move to the next digit in your PIN code. Press the left turn signal six times to continue, until you get to the end. At the end of the process, the alarm will disarm and the light on the dash will stop blinking. You can now start the bike as normal

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Hi, David check all wire connectors in the ignition and starter circuit and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
9. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
10. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
11. Check for engine trouble codes.
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I really have two issues; 1. Yesterday the bike started and ran fine, today it just turns and won't start. I replaced the spark plugs and ensured there was gas in it. 2. When I turn the key, or start...


Hi, Christopher and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
8. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP, CKP, O2 and/or BAS).
11. Security alarm needs a reset.
For more information about your issue and valuable free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Touch a 12" piece of wire to one terminal then touch the other end of the wire to the other terminal. Got a really good spark? No spark = bad battery. Okay, so you do get a good spark. Check the wiring harness for an unplugged wire. Also check for loose connections and burned wires. Bad ignition switch? Kill switch turned on?

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