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Trying to find out if you have to remove engine to inspect valves on this bike . I am aware that they are self adjusting but can you remove cover to inspect without removeing engine?

1984 CB700SC

Posted by Anonymous on

  • jimcatherina Apr 23, 2015

    If you have a pic of the bike I will confirm because some have shims some dont



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  • Motorcycles Master
  • 532 Answers

Hi it is possible to remove the rocker cover with the motor in place. But dont go there unless you have to they can be hard to seal up again. Also they are not self adjusting they use shims which need to be removed and measured and replaced as required with the appropriate size.

Posted on Apr 23, 2015


  • 5 more comments 
  • Anonymous Apr 23, 2015


  • Anonymous Apr 23, 2015

    PICTURES CB700 1984

  • jimcatherina Apr 24, 2015

    My apologies this modle is hydrolic, and there is no need to open unless there is a problem. There is no adjustment possible although sometimes the hydrolic units get clogged with gunk which causes loss of compression and poor running if you are worked s out this do a compression test. If its ok leave good enough alone. Regards Jim...

  • Anonymous Apr 24, 2015

    What about unusually loud ticking ? But i guess the real question is can we remove

  • Anonymous Apr 24, 2015

    the cover without removing engine?

  • jimcatherina Apr 24, 2015

    Hi again Melissa the engine mounts need to be remover to lower engine enough to remove cover.

  • Anonymous Apr 24, 2015

    THANK YOU :)



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Option 1: Go to mechanic

Option 2: Adjust the tappets. If you have never adjusted tappets or worked with engines before it is better to have someone experienced with you. The following is the procedure I use.

1: Carefully remove side panels.
2: Close fuel tap and disconnect pipe.
3: Carefully remove fuel tank. (undo the bolt under the seat and slide the tank 2 inches back, then lift it upwards)
4: Undo the bolts of the cylinder head cover (3 bolts with 12mm head, one of them also holds a small bracket for the throttle cable or ignition wire, I can't remember).
5: Remove the cylinder head cover. If you find this difficult put the bike in 5th gear and rotate the engine (by rotating the rear wheel) to the "inlet valve open" position so that the cover clears the "inlet valve rocker". Be careful that you do not damage the top cover gasket (made of rubber) or you will have an oil leak and no lubrication to the rockers.
6: Rotate the engine to a position with both valves closed, as close as possible to "top dead centre of compression/power strokes". There is a notch on the flywheel indicating top dead centre - you see this by opening the cap on the top of the flywheel cover on the left side of the bike. (do not stay at "top dead centre of exhaust/intake strokes")
7: Check the free play of the rockers on the valves. The service manual recommends a clearance between the valve and the rocker of 0.08mm with the engine cold (left to cool overnight). Maximum acceptable is 0.10mm and minimum is 0.06mm. The gap is checked using a feeler gauge (you know that you have a gap of 0.08mm by sliding a feeler that is 0.08mm thick and there is just a little friction slowing you down - if the feeler is hard to pull the gap is less than 0.08 and if the feeler passes with nothing resisting it then the gap is larger than 0.08mm).
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9: Check and re-check that the gap between the adjuster and the valve is as specified. Incorrectly adjusted tappets are very bad for the engine, especially "tight" tappets with no gap between adjuster screw and valve. The first time you adjust tappets you might have to repeat from step 7 several times until you get used to it.
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