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2012 Yamaha Zuma, doesn't start, fuel pump doesn't activate, engine trouble light and engine overheat light do not come on. Starter motor does work though, could the ECU be burned out? Thanks.

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  • Yamaha Master
  • 46,460 Answers

Check the kill switch

Posted on Apr 21, 2015

  • Tyler Stagg
    Tyler Stagg Apr 21, 2015

    I know the kill switch is functional because otherwise I wouldn't have current to the starting switch. My friend has the exact same scooter, instead of buying a $340.00 ECU, could I swap with his to find out if the ECU is in fact the problem?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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WildBill49
  • 97 Answers

SOURCE: 240sx

Hi 240 SX Girl-

We'll start with the basics, okay? An engine requires three things in order to start and run:

  1. Compression;
  2. Spark (Ignition delivered at the proper timing); and
  3. Fuel / Air Mixture
We'll assume that your engine has compression and narrow it down to either a fuel or an ignition problem.

The most likely culprit is a fuel delivery problem, usually a bad fuel pump, or a fault in the fuel pump control circuitry. Check the fuel pump fuse, locate the fuel pump relay and swap it with one of the other relays that is of the same type (like a fan relay). If this does not get you anywhere, disconnect the air ducting to the throttle body (where the throttle cable from the accelerator pedal connects) and squirt some starter fluid directly into the throttle body throat while a helper tries to crank the engine... If it tries to start and run, you now know it is definitely a fuel delivery problem, and you can narrow it down from there, but at this point I would say it is a bad fuel pump.

If it STILL does not try to start, you might not be getting ignition to the spark plugs. You can check this by removing one of the plug wires, inserting an insulated screwdriver into the plug connector, and holding the metal shaft of the driver very close to engine metal (ground), while someone turns the engine over. There should be a spark from the screwdriver shaft to the engine if ignition is present. BUT BE CAREFUL!!! THE SPARK PULSE IS VERY HIGH VOLTAGE AND COULD GIVE YOU A GOOD JOLT IF YOU TOUCH THE METAL SHAFT WHILE DOING THIS!!!

If there is no spark present, it could be any number of things in the ignition system causing this, and post a comment stating you need further help and I'll walk you through ignition diagnosis.

But try the above first --- I'm pretty sure this will get you going again, and if it does, please remember to rate my advice --- your approval is my ONLY compensation for providing this advice!

Thanks,
WildBill

Posted on Jul 14, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 chevy s-10 blazer. Car

have you gotten your fuel injectors checked? fuel injectors seem to go bad on later model v6

Posted on Sep 09, 2008

chuck943
  • 783 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 Continental will not start

Does anti-theft light come on for a sec then turn off when you turn on the key or does it flash with key on?
You said that CEL turns off while cranking,does it come back on if you continue to crank after about 8-10 seconds of cranking?
If it does not then your PCM is not seeing a signal from the crankshaft postion sensor.You can try wiggling the harness at the crankshaft postion sensor and see if it will start.

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: vw jetta 1996 gl model engine not staring

Probably the rpm sensor located in the side of engine block under motor mount in front of the starter where it reads the teeth on the flywheel..will cause the engine to turn over and not start or start and shut right off about $124.00 at dealer..

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport 3.3L Flex Fuel ECU Problem

PS...ignore person who answered...he is an intruder, and not part of the "team" !!!

Posted on Aug 15, 2009

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched or kinked.
8. Carburetor float stuck.
9. Fuel injectors clogged.
10. Severely discharged or damaged battery, you need 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
11. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
12. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box.
Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
13. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty MAP, CKP, O2, TPS, sensors.
14. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
15. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
16. Faulty CDI box.
17. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
18. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
19. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Hi, Anonymous it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light constant or flashing, will or will not start, turns over or not conditions varies from the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work or event IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying bike down/crashes, rainstorms/bike washings just before EFI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
6. Check for generated fault codes.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
For more information about your issue please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Hi, James and the usual suspects are:
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2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Float needle and seat sticking.
5. Float level too low.
6. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
7. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
8. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
9. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
10. Slow fuel jet clogged.
11. Faulty fuel pump.
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2011 Yamaha Zuma 125 won't start. Fuel pump is not starting so no gas. What could cause the fuel pump to not start? Only has 160 miles, but out of warranty.


Hi, Stuartsual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched or kinked.
8. Carburetor float stuck.
9. Fuel injectors clogged.
10. Severely discharged or damaged battery, you need 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
11. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
12. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box.
Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
13. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty MAP, CKP, O2, TPS, sensors.
14. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
15. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
16. Faulty CDI box.
17. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
18. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
19. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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2005 Yamaha Zuma won't start


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
9. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
10. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
11. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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My 2008 yamaha zuma 125 dies right after starting


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle circuit and transfer ports clogged.
2. Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean.
3. Pilot jet clogged.
4. Faulty accelerator pump.
5. Float level too low.
6. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc.
7. Float bowl vent or overflow tube clogged.
8. Fuel flow to carburetor restricted.
9. Intake manifold leak.
10. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
11. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
12. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
13. Multi carburetors not in sync.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

2009 zuma won't start and the check engine light stay flashing ?


Hi, Sadiesalcedo it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light constant or flashing, will or will not start, turns over or not conditions varies from the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work or event IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying bike down/crashes, rainstorms/bike washings just before EFI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
6. Check for generated fault codes.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
For more information about your issue please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1 Answer

2009 YAMAHA ZUMA WONT START


Hi, Maria and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enrichner.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. A severely discharged or damaged battery, you need 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
13. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
14. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
15. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
16. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
17. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
18. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
19. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
20. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
21. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
22. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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