Question about Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883 Hugger Motorcycles

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How much should the clutch adjustor screw move within the basket when you remove the clutch cable

Clutch chatters, does not fully engage or dissengage at times, all clutch adjustments are per specs, could it be the bearings

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Hi Sherry, The clutch adjuster screw is held in place by a bearing and the bearing is held in place by a c-clip or snap ring can't remember anyways there should be zero movement only rotation. These are parts that in my 35 years of wrenching I have never seen fail, but there is always a first time for everything. That being said its more likely that 1 or 2 of the 3 ball bearings that are located between the inner and outer ramp of the clutch release mechanism has fallen out. It can happen easily if you are not carefull when you have the primary cover off. Normally the mechanism is held in place on the inside of the primary cover with a c-clip or snap ring. Once it's removed thats when you can loose a ball or two. I would drain the primary, inspect the drain plug magnet for large metal chunks, pull the primary cover and look for missing ramp balls and or c-clips and snap rings. grab the clutch pack and see if has abnormal movement either in and out or up and down. Clutch hub nut could have loosened but highly unlikely. Good luck

Posted on Apr 16, 2015

Testimonial: "thanks yes you can move the adj screw around in a circle like a windmill once you remove the spring,lock plate and nut."

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1 Answer

Why will blades will not disengage?


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Clutch chatters at times and doesn't fully engage or dissengage at times on 2005 Harley XL 1200 C sportster.


Since you said it that "doesn't fully engage or disengage at times", my first suspicion is the clutch cable. If the cable is stretched or frayed, this would cause all of these problems. The first thing I'd do is lubricate the cable and adjust the clutch. You can get a cable lubricating kit from most places that sell aftermarket parts and maybe even the dealership. Once you've lubricated the cable, find the cable adjuster in the middle of the cable and push the protective boot up or down to gain access. Then, loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster inwards to get a good amount of slack in the cable. Then, take the derby cover off the primary and remove the spring and lock nut from the clutch adjuster. Turn the screw counterclockwise as far as it will go. Don't force it though. Then turn the screw back clockwise 1/4 turn. Replace the lock nut, spring, and derby cover. Go back to the cable adjuster and turn the adjuster barrel outwards until you have about 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play in the cable. Try this and see if it helps. If not, you may need to service the clutch but it takes a special tool to disassemble the assembly. Make sure you've got the right amount of oil in the primary case. There may be an oil level check plug in the rear of the primary. Stand the bike straight up and remove the plug. The oil level should be to where the oil just runs out of the hole. If there is not a check hole, drain the primary and refill with one quart of oil.

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Hi, I've an XR600 all works fine from cold but as the engine warms up the clutch starts dragging (will not completrely dissengage). It's not 'notchy' seems to me that the clutch plates...


Yes the plates do change dimension as it warms up, which will change the feel and lever adjustment. I would inspect the outer basket and inner drive hub for wear. Over time the steel plates will wear notches in the inner hub, and the friction plates will notch the basket as well, and when this occurs the clutch plates can't move freely and can't engage properly. Good luck!

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1 Answer

Still runs great never sliped never smelt burnt doesnt engage


No idea what type of bike you have however, is the clutch lever pulling the cable against any tension, if no, it may just be the cable. Follow cable to engine and see if it actuates the clutch actuating arm or spindle. If lever operates okay and actuates clutch actuating arm, returning when released, your problem lies within. Warm engine and drain oil, remove clutch cover (careful of gasket and dowels) and inspect function of actuating arm against clutch thrust rod. If this is okay, your clutch basket may be undone on the spline, or the idler cog that drives the clutch basket is faulty.
More info on model required for any further diagnosis.
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If it is a clutch problem, ride in top gear at 100kl\hr and give the clutch lever a flick, see if it grabs or slips for a while and then takes up.

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How to change clutch lining on saturn 99 manual transmission


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Thought i burnt the clutch out on my wr,at a recent t and t,the bike wouldnt move when in gear with the lever released,so i replaced the clutch plates and oil,i can start the bike ,put in gear,when i let...


Please pardon my response if it is too simple, but did you correctly align the pressure plate (Center part that tops the clutch plates and has springs bolted through it.) with the inner clutch basket (the part inside the clutch basket that the pressure plates spline onto)? If this is not aligned, the pressure plate will not fully engage the clutch plates. Both parts usually have an indicator mark that shows proper alignment.

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1 Answer

Pto willl not engage


Hi mate, Although my trade is repairing turfcare machinery, I have no experience with this model, so I will try my best. Firstly, the clicking you hear will probably be the electric clutch engaging/dissengaging. Firstly, see if you can get the clicking with engine off, keyswitch in first position/on/lights on dash. You may have to place something heavy on the seat and have traction pedal in neutral. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT ENGAGE THE STARTER MOTOR/START THE ENGINE THROUGHT THIS!

Now have a look under the footwell on top of the deck and try to determine where the clicking is coming from, there will be a clutch there somewhere joining the engine drive pulley to a deck pulley, Also at this point check that both belts are on and with the ENGINE OFF! spin the blade/blades with your hand and ensure that the deck belts are not slipping on the deck pulleys. If they are you will need to establish where the tensioning system is. (Sorry i know pretty vague)

Back to the Clutch, once you establish where it is, engage the blades ENGINE OFF! and you should feel a greater resistance turning the blades as you are now turning the engine as well, beware though, it is theoretically possible to start the engine by doing this, but you will almost certainly not be able to spin the blades that quickly by hand.

If it is clicking to engage but not turning the engine pulley when spinning the blades by hand, then try tapping the clutch lightly as it may not be fully dissengaging.

I would put money on it being either one of the belts coming off/snapping, the blades jamming or the clutch not engaging fully.

If you find that the clicking is not the clutch engaging and its actually getting no power to the clutch then you need to go back to the pto switch and go through all safety switches! (good luck, it usually ends up with me bypassing them or running a new cable to the switch,then, smoke, shouting, swearing etc etc!) Either not advisable.

In doing all this you should have been able to have determined the problem be it one that I have mentioned or another.

Hope this helps,
Chris.

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