Question about Honda Motorcycles
Have you a lot of slack in the lever before the clutch starts to compress? If so, you should be able to use the adjustment where the cable attaches to the lever. Back it off so there is less slack, thereby getting more compression of the clutch. If the clutch drags and the shift into gear is really harsh, it may be an idea to have it checked for worn clutch plates.
Posted on Apr 16, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The clutch's plates must be stuck.Disassemble them and renew if necessary.The clutch lever should have 3mm freeplay and the spring's bolts should be tighten at 14Nm.
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
Possibly 2 problems m8.
If the brake-lever travel has increased then it either wasn't bled up properly or it's allowing air past the seals in the master-cylinder.
Try tying the lever back to the bar overnight to bring any air in the system up to the top (resevoir) and see if the brakes stay good, if not they'll need bleeding again.
Check for any leaks around all the banjo connections, up at the bars and down at the calipers, plus have a close inspection of the master-cylinder piston area for leaks.
The juddering might be down to a warped disc or two, get the front wheel off the ground and spin the wheel to check for this visually or with a stick and pointer.
Posted on Jun 17, 2009
Nope. Pressure plates use mechanical springs which don't fail with this symptom. It's your pressure cylinders for the clutch fluid. Either the main cylinder that is activated when you squeeze the lever or the slave cylinder that moves when fluid is displaced from the main cylinder. Check the fluid level in the small tank usually located on the handle bar and connected to the lever housing. No fluid = source of problem. Refill with the proper fluid. However, if the fluid has gotten very low, you may have gotten air into the fluid line and will need to "bleed" the system to restore good lever pressure and clutch function. Buy a repair manual...Chilton, Clymer, etc.. for your bike for details.
Posted on Sep 15, 2009
check your master cylinder fluid level you have air in the line, you need to bleed out the air bubbles.
remove the master cylinder cap make sure yo uhave enough brake fluid pump the lever watch for fine bubbles keep doing it until you feel the resistance build up and the air bubbles are gone ad fluid to proper level replace the cap.
Posted on May 11, 2010
Well, the answer is yes and no. If you hear a clunk noise when shifting to first gear when the engine and transmission is cold, this is normal. Once the engine reaches normal operating temp, the answer is "NO", not normal.
In a cold engine, the oil is thick and even with the clutch pulled in, enough oil is between the plates to drive the mainshaft and cause the noise. Now. once the oil gets hot, it shouldn't do this. If it does, you need to adjust the clutch.
To adjust the clutch, find the cable adjuster in the middle of the clutch cable. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster inwards to get as much slack in the cable as possible.
Now, remove the derby cover, spring, and locknut at the clutch release mechanism on the outer primary cover. Inside the mechanism is a screw. Turn this screw as far as it will go clockwise but don't try to force it. Once it stops, turn the screw back clockwise 1/4 turn. Replace the "locknut", spring, and the derby cover over the release mechanism.
Now, go back to the cable adjuster and adjust it back outwards until you get about an 1/8" of freeplay. Squeeze the clutch a few times and check the freeplay again. Lock the lock nut and replace the rubber boot over the adjuster.
Posted on Jan 14, 2011
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