Question about Motorcycles
Posted by Anonymous on
It won't.hurt it but if you cutting it to fit some noisy open slip on screaming eagles or similar make sure the Internal diameter of the slip on is the same as the outside diameter of your bit your cutting,also if they are open pipes the bike may run a bit weak afterwards unless it's already dyno jetted
Posted on Apr 15, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.
To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.
Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.
Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.
Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.
Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
To change the throttle grip, first loosen the cable adjusters as much as possible. Then, remove the two bolts that hold the switch housing halves together. Lay the top half aside being careful not to break any of the wires. Roll the throttle grip until you can disconnect both the throttle cable and the idle cable from the grip. Slide the old grip off the handlebar. Put some thin grease inside the new grip and on the nylon piece where the cables connect. Slide the grip onto the handlebar and reconnect the cables. Replace the top half of the switch housing being careful not to pinch any of the wires. Make sure the switch housing is pushed all the way up against the front brake master cylinder and tighten the two bolts. Readjust the throttle cable and idle cable. Check for proper operation of the throttle assembly. Improper assembly of the throttle control can cause uncontrollable acceleration of the motorcycle leading to severe injury or death. Make sure it works correctly BEFORE you start the engine.
Posted on Mar 28, 2010
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