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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Not too much, if you are a fair mechanic. You probably should get a service manual tho. Basically, you remove the foot pegs and anything in the way, remove shifter, clutch cable. Drain the trans oil, then pull the cover. A couple parts may fall out, that's why I suggested a service manual.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
SOURCE: specs and oil capacity
Most owners of the old Ironheads try to use the oils that were used when they were built. They use straight 50 weight when the weather is cold and 60 weight when temps are hot. But, one could use 10W50 oil in them. I would not use synthetic as any oil leaks will intensify with the use of synthetic oil. The XLH, XLX, and XLS tanks hold three quarts with the exception of the XR1000 which hold two quarts.
Posted on Jun 20, 2010
If I understand correctly, Your bike has points in it now and you want to go to electronic ignition. If that's what you want to do, I would suggest that you go with one of the aftermarket ignition units. They're more versatile, costs less, and easier to install.
There are two types available. Your bike has a mechanical timing advance unit behind the points breaker plate. One type of electronic unit eliminates this mechanical part and makes the system truly maintenance free while the other type retains the mechanical advance unit and cost less. A prime example is Crane Cam's HI-1 unit that retains the mechanical advance and their HI-4 unit that eliminates it. Most bikes made after 1984 do not have the mechanical advance units. Since your bike does not have any of the original components left on it, I would suggest that you get one of the units that goes in the "nose cone" of the engine. It simply replaces the everything in there if you get the unit that does not use the mechanical advance. The Mechanical advance units are prone to wear and since no one ever services them, I'd suggest getting rid of it. You'll have to purchase a "timing cup" from Harley, costs about $20, a lot less than $100 bucks for needle bearing mechanical advance unit. Get the shorter screw that goes with it as well.
All you have to have with either unit is a "hot" wire going to the coil. The coil must have a primary resistance of somewhere around 3-4 ohms where a points type coil has a primary resistance of 4-6 ohms. To determine the resistance of your coil use a Digital Volt Ohm Meter and measure the resistance between the two small terminals on the coil. To wire the ignition units is usually just a two or three wire hookup that is very simple. They all come with wiring instructions.
Now, the next thing is whether you wish to stick with "dual fire" ignition or go to "single fire" ignition. Dual fire is the system that almost all Harley's come equipped with from the factory. In this type of system, both spark plugs fire when the pistons are top dead center. Since one piston is on the exhaust stroke, that spark is of no consequence and therefore is considered a 'wasted spark". In a "single fire" system, the spark plugs fire independently when each piston comes to TDC on the compression stroke. It requires either two coils or a "two in one" type coil. This added coil increases the cost of the system and to be honest with you, I cannot tell a difference between the two systems. With that in mind, I opt to go with the less expensive and simplier "dual fire" system.
Custom Chrome online catalog. http://www.customchrome.net//icatalog/full.aspx?Page=571
Ok, this will get you started. Installing an electronic ignition system in an older Harley is easy to do. The difficult part is deciding which one to go with. Once you do that, no problem. If you have anymore questions, drop me a line at email@example.com .
To see how to hook up one of the units, go to their website and look for a "Technical" page. Go to that page and look for "installation Instructions". Print them out and it'll tell you everything you need to know. If not, I've got some different types of systems installation instructions that I can scan and send to you.
Posted on Jul 04, 2010
SOURCE: I have a 1979 harley
The original wires, one blue and one white, were with the points ignition. The white wire should be the "Hot" wire. Now, look at your wiring diagram. The two white wires should go together to one side of the coil and the blue to the other. There is no positive or negative side of the coil, just two small primary winding terminals. Make sure the white wire from the ignition system is the "hot" or power wire for 12 volts. If you connect the ignition unit up backwards, it will damage it. To make sure the white wire on the bike is the hot wire, simply turn the ignition switch on and check this wire with a test light or volt meter. It should show battery voltage on it. That should be your setup, two white wires on one end of the coil and a blue wire on the other.
Posted on Nov 16, 2010
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