Question about 2006 Bajaj Pulsar 150

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2006 Bajaj Pulsar 150 not charging

Pulsar 150 UG2 2006 model battery doesn't charge. RR unit, Battery new, Self-start, horn, indicators are OK..but battery, not charging @

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  • Bajaj Master
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Hi, Roy before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Posted on Oct 12, 2017

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SOURCE: I have bajaj pulsar 150 dtsi with digital meter

the charing canecter was change the fuz & chaq the battry conction

Posted on Aug 16, 2011

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My pulsar 150 ug2 engine is tik tik sound but timing chain is new


Hi, Dipjyoti I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
1. Bearings---SCREECH
2. Belts---CHIRP
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Chains---RATTLE
5. Clutches---CHATTER
6. Cylinders---PING
7. Fronk Forks---Plunk
8. Gears---WHINE
9. Head Gasket---HISS
10. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
11. Pistons---SLAP
12. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
13. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
14. Solid Lifters---TICK
15. Starters---CLICK
16. Connecting Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/help-me/25683-bajaj-pulsar-150-ug3-tick-tick-sound.html
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Feb 04, 2017 | 2007 Bajaj Pulsar 150

1 Answer

1) accelerating problem between 2000 rpm to 3500rpm. 2)self start is not working, getting continuous tick, tick, tick sound


now carburetor adjustment is improper...so the carburetor need to clean and adjust proper setting...and you need to replace the battery because some battery will show reading 12.8v, but when you apply some load it will not supply the voltage, yet you can confirm the battery's health by high rate discharge test...

Mar 09, 2014 | 2005 Bajaj Pulsar 150

1 Answer

Hi, I am not able to start my pulsar 180cc. It


Hi, Aditya and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Bank angle sensor tripped and ignition/light key switch not cycled to the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position.
5. Security alarm needs a reset.
6. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Electric starter shaft pinion gear is not engaging or over-running starter clutch slipping.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day. DOWNLOAD Bajaj Pulsar 180

Sep 17, 2013 | 2006 Bajaj Pulsar 180

1 Answer

2008 Bajaj Pulsar 200 DTSi will not turn over


Hi, Justin before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. Faulty ignition relay.
14. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
15. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Aug 18, 2017 | 2008 Bajaj Pulsar 200 DTSi

1 Answer

Sir i have a bajaj pulser 150, digital meter, with elect start, i have a problem when i switch on the bike, bike automatic self start, blow horn, and all 4 lights of indicator and the indicator signal on...


Hi, Sudhir in order to diagnose the starter circuit you must start with a fully charged battery, 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test if necessary. The battery cables and terminals must be clean and tight. The "NEGATIVE" cable is famous for corroding and or breaking inside the harness, check the connectors at both ends. Check your starter relay with a test light for continuity, it could be faulty due to corrosion and sticking in a closed configuration, another claim to fame. Finally, there is the starter solenoid, low battery voltage or faulty battery connections will cause extremely high amperage at the plate and contact shoes and rob the hold in coils of much-needed voltage. In extreme cases, the solenoid plunger plate will literally weld itself to the contact shoes, keeping the circuit closed and thus permanent engagement. Another scenario is unacceptable voltage drop to the starter solenoid from the ignition switch to the starter relay to the starter button, and finally to the solenoid. Remove the green wire from the starter solenoid and hook up the positive lead of your volt meter to the green wire connector and ground the negative lead. Turn on the ignition switch and depress starter button, the voltage reading should be no more than .5 volt less than the battery voltage. If it is more than .5 volt you need to backtrack that part of the circuit with your volt meter until you find the voltage robbing offender. Next remove the 3 screws that secure the solenoid cover and remove the plunger, dress the plate and the contact shoes of arching residue and make sure the contact shoes are tight and secure. If you have done all of the above, replace the green starter button wire, hook up your voltmeter to the battery and check the voltage drop when you start the engine, anything below 9 volts could indicate a faulty battery and a proper load test should be performed. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day. https://www.tradebit.com/filesharing.php/search/0/bajaj+pulsar+150

Aug 26, 2012 | 2007 Bajaj Pulsar 150

1 Answer

Self start not working..


check ur battery is the battery have no energy so charge it,2.second check the starter relay and rectifier.and clean the left side holder.thank u.

Sep 14, 2011 | 2005 Bajaj Pulsar 150

1 Answer

My pulsar 180 battery is not charging . its 2010 model.


Hi, Nitindj2010 and the usual suspects are:
1. Voltage regulator/rectifier not grounded.
2. Engine ground wire loose or broken.
3. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier module.
4. Loose or broken wires in charging circuit.
5. Faulty stator and/or rotor.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
DOWNLOAD Bajaj Pulsar 180

Dec 29, 2010 | 2006 Bajaj Pulsar 180

1 Answer

I just picked up a 2006 Bajaj Chetak from a guy who runs a local tobacco shop around the corner. It was ridden a total of about 1630 miles by a little old Indian man who is the original owner. It runs and...


You have a dead battery. Add distilled water to the battery and then charge it up. Riding the scooter regularly will keep the battery charged, but it will not re-charge a battery once it has gone so dead that the starter will not turn over. Worst possible case, buy a new battery for about $26.

Nov 27, 2010 | 2006 Bajaj Pulsar 150

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