Hi my van is not charging battry is the problem of rectifier or requlator and how iam going test

Well every car made does this if driven long and far enough.
they ALL DO, and is not dreaded, it is expected,
belts, hose,fluids ,brakes, battery,,tires , alt and starter. (short lives)
fail. most never ever last the life of whole car. ever.
if you change that trend lets get rich> no? *a 500k mile ALT"
no no no, 12vdc is noT charging ever, 13-15vdc is charging
and 99% of DIY never read the service manual step 1.
remove NEG battery lug first or BOOM ,
or blow up the HUGE ALTERNATOR FUSE.
also some cars the PCM is the regulator and can fail too
and some have 3 fuse for the ALT, 1huge 2 small. we test them all first skipping not one.

ive no clue what is a
Transit? a FORD VAN? a MK5 VAN? WITH 15 ENGINE OPTION NEW, EUROPE.
EVEN BI-FUEL ENGINES, GAS AND DIESEL .
is it so hard to type FORD as they have other funny cars in EUROPE with that funny model name. SINCE 1965
no country told
no engine told , 100 TO 250 AMP ALT , FOR SOME ENGINES.
some have dual batteries and Dual ALTERNATOR OPTIONS NEW.

OUR PARTS HOUSE HERE HAS TO PARTS FOR IT.
SO WHERE ARE YOU, AFTER ALL PARTS AND MANUALS ARE FIRST BY COUNTRY . FOR SURE EASY TO SOURCE.

THE PROBLEM IS:
BLOWN FUSES, WHY NOT CHECK THEM ALL
AND THE 100 AMP ONE TO ALT NOT BLOWN.!!!!!!
AND IF THE SELLER OF NEW ALT SHOWS REGULATOR IS IN PCM THAT TOO CAN BE BAD.
AS CAN WIRES TO IT. .
WE CAN NO SEE YOUR VIN
NOR SEE UNDER THAT HOOD (BONNET?)
WHAT IS THERE IS ANYONE'S GUESS. SO FAR.

I GUESS ENGINE THERE
Alternator for FORD Transit Mk5 Van (V184, V185) 2.4 TDCi 03.2004 - 05.2006 (137 hp Diesel) H9FA HAS ON BOARD V.REGULATOR
SORRY NOT DOING ALL 15 ENGINES ME EVER.
IF YES FUES IS BLOWN
OR BUYING WRONG ALTERNATORS, FOR 14 OTHER WRONG ENGINES. OUCH.

should be on the head next to or near the injectors ,if its the engine iam thinking of then this is at the back of the engine furthest away from you standing at the front of the engine .Also look at the injectors as there is only one bolt holding them down and they often lose gas up the side of the compression copper washer ,bad design we call it the black ***** in the trade as to rectify properly you will need to remove the head ..Same engine as used in a multitude of vehicles including the ford .

If test light is a 12 volt light tester AND ILLUMINATES BRIGHT it shows that a component is actively trying to complete a circuit and yes drawing power causing a drain on your battery, now if test light illuminates low, possibility could just be ecm memory or antitheft system active . either way this test should only be done with a 12 volt test light as if you use a 5 volt (computer friendly) tester , false light will have you chasing a ghost. trust me. that trick helps by checking for parasitic draws a 12 volt tester does not illuminate when keep alive memory voltages are present . those voltages are not enough to drain over night. good luck

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/james_9ddabbbc483e2add

does it stay on when you have driven the car for a few minutes? if you did not drive it , try that

here you go..
windstar van 2001 fuse box diagram Google Search

I think you mean drive cycle not complete.
Generally the van needs to be driven 50-100 miles at both city and highway speeds. The distance needs to start when the engine is at operating temp, and the speed needs to vary including stop and go city. It does not have to be all in one trip but the engine must be warmed up first.

it is probabably in your alt.

if the battery light is on you still have a fault in the charging system, you need to test your alternator,with the car running to ensure its charging 14v, and id charge the battry up manually to see if it's holding a charge.
you could have a broken wire problem, this could prevent the car from charging, but id test both thos eitem to make sure they work first.

Hello
When the Battery light stays on it means that the engines Alternator or wiring to it are defective and the battery is not being charged correctly. To have the Alternator tested for free along with a battery test go to any Autozone or Kragen auto parts store.

If you havent replaced the battery I would start there. If the battery has a dead cell in it then it will effectively remove the charge that your alternator is putting out causing your vehicle to stop running because it has no power. I would jump start the car without the battery hook up and remove the cables and see if it runs that way. If it does you have a bad battery.