Question about 2008 Suzuki B-king

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Suzuki b king FI light has come on and I have error c42 is there a reset procedure to follow

Have jet washed the bike and fitted new plugs and air filter have removed all electrical plugs and sprayed with wd40 but still cant get lights out

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  • Suzuki Expert
  • 386 Answers

TRY DISCONNECTING THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL FOR 30 SECONDS

Posted on Apr 24, 2015

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: GSXR 750 Slingshot wont rev past 5000rpm, with or without choke

I have seen this before a few things to do too make sure. First take the air filter out and shine a light use your fingers to move the slides up and down I suspect the springs that go on the slide is not seated in center you can tell from the slide going halfway and hanging up. Next, the boots on the slides only go on 1 way there is a notch on the carbs for them. I would guess this would fix you up if not we can get deeper into it with air-fuel mix screw settings.good luck

Posted on Mar 25, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: Bike won't stay running

Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each CARB float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, (not all bikes have a water trap bowl). Install new stock NGK spark plugs.

Remove the CARBS from the bike.
FOR EACH CARB > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire
CARB with a spray CARB cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the CARB. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the CARB and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
CARB back together, clean the air filter and install the CARB. Install an in-line fuel filter. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.

BALANCE THE CARBS
Turn the throttle screw on the LEFT CARB one half turn inward. Now start the engine and get it warmed up. With the engine running, remove the RIGHT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the left CARB to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

Now turn the throttle screw on the RIGHT CARB one half turn inward. Restart and rev the engine. Next, remove the LEFT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the right CARB to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS
Remove the air filter and rubber fittings to allow you to see into the throat of both CARBS. You may need a mirror to see inside. You need to be able to see the slides go up and down when you twist the throttle. Now turn the fitting where the cable goes into each CARB such that there is just a bit of slack in the cable, 1/16" is plenty. Lock ONE of the cable adjusters down tight. All further adjustments will be made on the other CARB.

With the motor turned off twist the throttle very slowly while looking at the slides. Both slides need to begin lifting at the exact same moment. If the slides don't raise at the exact same time then slowly twist the throttle until the locked adjuster slide just barely starts to move. Hold the throttle still and turn the adjuster on the other CARB so that the slide on that CARB just barely starts to move also. Now recheck the slide movement timing. Do this process until the slides on both CARBS begin to raise at the EXACT same moment. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides.

Turn the idle screw on each CARB EXACTLY ONE HALF turn outward and restart the engine. The engine will be probably be idling very fast. Adjust both the idle screws equally from this point to get to the desired idle speed. Congratulations, you have just balanced and synchronized your CARBS This should fix the problem. One last and VERY IMPORTANT thing, Have a fire extinguisher handy and ready for use any time you work on or with he CARBS.

Please rate this solution. Thanks throttlejock!



Posted on Apr 22, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1983 suzuki gs 750 New airpods and jets. Bike not running right

You are dealing with Suzuki vacuum carbs, you cannot just replace the air box and re-jet. What you are running into is there is no pressure to raise the diaphragm because there is no restriction to create such vacuum. Either put the stock box back on or go to the biggest main jets you can buy. Sometime even when you get stage 3 jets you still have issues. Vacuum carbs are not made to run with no restrictions.....putting aftermarket exhaust on it will make things much worse.

Posted on Sep 30, 2009

  • 296 Answers

SOURCE: my gs500f is back firing through the CARB. the

Lean mixtures burn very slowly, at times slowly enough to continue burning through the power and exhaust stroke, causing a backfire when the intake valve opens, and that flame gets a shot at the new mixture charge.

In normal operation, as the engine slows, the fuel delivery from the main circuit falls off, and the idle circuit is supposed to take over. If the idle circuit flows insufficiently, that becomes a transition to fuel starvation.

You can try pointing an unlit propane torch into the inlet air, and see if you can get closer to an idle while supplying a supplementary fuel source. You will need to do this in a way that gets propane to both carburetor inlets, maybe rigging a Y with vacuum hoses and electrical tape...

This started with work on the carburetors, so the fuel system would be the most suspect. That, and the fact that it will run at higher RPM would seem to rule out fuel delivery.

I was looking around at photos while developing this answer (needed to know whether this was a twin or a 4-cylinder), and one resource said the idle speed should be 1,200. I don't know if that's right, but maybe 1,000 RPM is too slow for this motor to keep it together. (I do doubt that, though.)

When I wrote that last sentence, I started to second guess myself, thinking "What if the fuel shutoff(s) is/are vacuum operated, and as the bike approaches idle there is insufficient vacuum to hold it/them open?" But the I rejected that, because there is even less vacuum at cranking speeds, yet the bike starts.

Posted on Jun 26, 2010

19ken55
  • 426 Answers

SOURCE: Hi , my suzuki Bandit GSF 600 2002 plate, off road

Ride the bike 20 or so miles on open road. Stop and remove plug to inspect. 'Are they black or white ?


Black =rich white=lean

Posted on Feb 01, 2011

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My Suzuki B-King displays code 42 and I don't know what to do


Hi, Marwan do not panic take a deep breath and remain calm for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Nov 19, 2016 | Suzuki Boulevard C50T Motorcycles

1 Answer

I have a 2003 Suzuki TL1000R. It was running fine, then I stopped for gas. When I tried to start it, it would only turn over slowly, but would not fire, and the little F1 light came on. Help??


Open your rear seat and you'll see a black cap covering a connector/harness on the left side of the seat. If you take the cap off, you'll see it appears to be a normal harness. With your key in the ignition and bike turned to "on" (but not running), take a paperclip and short the two connectors out (by touching the two contacts together). This is known as a "ghetto dealer mode switch". It should display the error code on your display instead of just FI now.



Fuel Injection (FI) Code List:

C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR
C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR
C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1
C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2
C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3
C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4
C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT
C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR
C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1
C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2
C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3
C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4
C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM
C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL
C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (1000 ONLY)

Jul 11, 2014 | 2003 Suzuki TL 1000 R

1 Answer

Ls650, S40, BS40 Mikuni carburetor, I want to fit a pod filter, but bike runs all funny ,even if i take side cover off the airbox?


If you fit a pod filter, or take the lid off the air box, you are allowing more air into the engine. Therefore, you must also allow more fuel to mix with the air. To do this, you must increase the jet size in the carburator. I recommend Dyno Jet brand jet kits. They will have all the parts necessary as well as tuning guidelines to follow.

Jul 30, 2013 | 1982 Suzuki GSX 400 FS impulse

1 Answer

I have a 2004 gxsr 1000 with fault code c42. It wont start. oil light is flashing and displays FI on the temp. Bike just crank but will not fire it up. Help?


Grab a paperclip.

Place the bike in Neutral, and take the rear seat cowling off. On the side of the bike between the tail section and the trunk you will find a connector that is covered by a rubber cap, and has two wires running into it. Remove the cap and take note of which one of the 4 sockets the two wires go to. Turn the bike ON and start it up, short the wires out with the paperclip. Where your speedo was flashing a -CHEC- with the temp should now be a CXX error code. Write this code down. Then shut the bike off. Match the code up with the list below. Grab a Manual and get to work!

(What you have just done is put the bike into "Dealer Mode".

GSXR Fuel Injection (FI) Code List:

C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR
C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR
C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1
C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2
C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3
C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4
C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT
C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR
C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1
C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2
C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3
C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4
C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM
C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL
C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (1000 ONLY)

03-04 GSXR1000 Workshop Manual Verify Download

Sep 26, 2012 | 2004 Suzuki GSX-R 1000

1 Answer

How to fix error c42


Hi my b king show me code 42 and i dint know what to do
2_10_2017_3_30_11_pm.jpg

Jun 22, 2012 | 2006 Suzuki GSX 1300 R Hayabusa

1 Answer

1990 Suzuki GSX-R 750 L carburetor tuning


Hi, Phil if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Jun 15, 2017 | 1990 Suzuki GSX-R 750 L

1 Answer

My bike has sat for one year. I bought a new battery one year ago and drove it from my old apartment to my current one. The bike has not been started for one year. I got a used gas tank on ebay and...


Ok mate few things to consider here, if the bike has been non started and stationary for a year there is a very good chance that one of the following or all of the following has occurred.
Your battery is dead (they don't like just sitting - doesn't matter new or old, if left for extensive time they will die) Your gear / motor oil would be useless - oil can not just sit in bottom of bike for a year it would be glue
Your carbi would be blocked or partially blocked from fuel gum or varnish in jets
If you like this bike I highly recommend oil and filter change, New spark plug (put about 10 drops of oil down the spark plug hole before you put new spark plug back in to lube the piston) clean air filter (or fit new one) Remove carbi and compressed air clean all jets especially the pilot jet and circuit and stick in a new battery
Once all done for the fist start I would find a nice safe hill and push start it. in my experience under this circumstances if you rely on the electric starter you may find you burn it out trying to start so give at least few minutes running motor to flush everything through before trying to electric start would be your best bet
When you get it going I would dump the oil and oil filter again after 2 hours ride time to confirm all the old expired oil is flushed out - just to be safe
good luck regards Jamie

May 28, 2011 | Suzuki Boulevard C50T Motorcycles

1 Answer

Hi i have a 2004 sv1000s not getting any fire from the spark plug line i put the bike in dealer mode an i got c41 what dos that mean ?


GSXR Fuel Injection (FI) Code List:

C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR
C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR
C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1
C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2
C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3
C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4
C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT
C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR
C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1
C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2
C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3
C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4
C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM
C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL
C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (1000 ONLY)

heres a list of fault codes hope it helps

John

Jan 04, 2011 | 2003 Suzuki SV 1000 S

2 Answers

I just bought a 2008 Suzuki B-King and it keeps flashing the fi code and the fi light is on. It has aftermarket exhaust on it, how do I stop it from flashing because it wont let me see the trip meter at...


Take it to the shop and have them read the error code. The flashing is an error code and wont stop till you fix the problem or shop resets the code for you... That is my experiences with these issues....

I hope that this helps you and please do not forget to rate/vote and place a testimonial on my advice.



Wicked Angel

Nov 19, 2010 | 2008 Suzuki B-king

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