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Im04 electra glide. It had cam work done. About 13k miles later Im hearing a tapping. It sounds like the front pushrod. It is not adjustable. Also myoil pressure is low at idle Could anyone help

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  • Motorcycles Master
  • 10,875 Answers

Oil pump is starting to go,have it replaced

Posted on Apr 06, 2015

  • 2 more comments 
  • Ian Philly
    Ian Philly Apr 06, 2015

    Ok Do u think that will stop the tapping. It's annoying and very concerning

  •  johnny rebel
    johnny rebel Apr 06, 2015

    the oil pump is tapping,when you get it replaced it will no longer tap

  • Ian Philly
    Ian Philly Apr 07, 2015

    Thanks for the help. Is there a way u can check the oil pump?

  •  johnny rebel
    johnny rebel Apr 07, 2015

    not really,besides taking it to the service shop

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2006 street glide flhx. noisey valve train .geting worse.only 20.000 miles .just started in the last 2000 miles. are push rod ajustable? how can you tell if cam teniture is bad?


The stock pushrods are not adjustable. Screamin' Eagle pushrods from Harley are adjustable. To check the cam tensioners, you have to remove the cam cover on the right side of the motor to see the tensioners. You will need a flashlight to see the tensioner on the back side of the cam plate. If the plastic on the tensioners show excesssive wear, replace them. They typically need replacement after about 30,000 miles, but I've replaced them at 20,000 to 60,000+. I just put new ones in my Fatboy at 32,000. Have you recently changed from conventional oil to synthetic? This can give you a bit more valvetrain noise, due to the thinnner synthetic oil.

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1 Answer

Need first steps to adjusting push rods didnt mark the pushrods as we removed them the bike is 80 cubic inch electra glide 1994


Uhh, if the pushrods in your 1994 model bike were stock, they are not adjustable. They should be color coded at to where they go. If this is what you have, they go in the following positions:
Purple - Rear Exhaust
Blue - Rear Intake
Yellow - Front Intake
Green - Front exhaust

Now, if they have been changed to adjustable push rods by you or some previous owner, the first thing you have to do is figure out how many turns of the adjuster it takes to make the pushrod 0.100" longer. Turn the adjuster all the way inward making the pushrod as short as possible. Now, using a caliper, turn the adjuster outwards until you get a measurement of threaded rod that is exactly one hundred thousandts long. Then turn the adjust all the way back inward while counting the number of "flats" on the hex adjuster that you turn until it bottoms out. You must do it this way because different manufacturers of the pushrods use different thread pitches on their adjusters.

Once you know how many "flats" it takes to make the pushrods 0.100" longer install the pushrod into a position with the tappet all the way down. Adjust the pushrod out using your fingers until you get all the slack out of the pushrod. Then turn the pushrod adjuster outwards the number of turns that it takes to make the pushrod exactly 0.100" longer.

Once this is done, you will not be able to turn the pushrod. You must wait for the hydraulic tappet to bleed down before you can turn the engine. If you do turn the engine before the tappet bleeds down, you may bend the valve. Do not turn the engine until you can turn the pushrod with your fingers. Proceed until you get all pushrods installed and adjusted in this manner.

Ride Safe,
Steve

Jan 17, 2011 | Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide...

1 Answer

I get a loud ticking noise at times not all the time even at high rpms seems to be comeing from front of bike


I assume that the noise is coming from the engine. If so, it sounds like the classic bad tappet roller. Each tappet has a roller on the end of it that follows the cam. In other words, you have roller tappets in your engine. Since I cannot hear the noise, I'm making a guess here at best. It'll be up to you to determine exactly where the noise is coming from and if it is the tappets causing the noise.

These tappet rollers are notorious for going bad at around 25 to 30K miles. I have seen them go bad as early as 13K and run as long as 75K. You never know how long they're going to last. They start off with an intermittent knock but they'll get louder shortly. The front exhaust tappet is usually the first one to go since the angle of the pushrod is so steep.

To check the tappets is a bit of a job. First you must take the rocker box covers off the engine. With those off, rotate the engine until one of the cylinders is at TDC with the valves closed. Take the large bolts out of the lower rocker plate on the right side. This will allow you to get the rocker shaft out of the rocker arm. Tap the shaft out and remove the rocker arm of both the intake and exhaust valves. Now, you can remove the pushrod and the pushrod tubes. Take the four small bolts out of the tappet block and remove the tappet block. The tappets may fall out and into the cam chest but you can get them out. If you get the tappet block loose and kind of roll it out quickly, you may can get it out without the tappets falling out. Once you get the tappets out, inspect the roller carefully, Make sure they don't have any slack in them and that they roll freely.

Now turn the engine over until you get the other piston to TDC and do the same thing on the other cylinder.

note: the best way to roll the engine over is with the rear wheel. Raise the rear wheel off the ground and put the transmission in fifth gear. Turn the rear wheel in the direction of rotation with the spark plugs out of the heads.

If you find a bad roller, carefully inspect the cam lobes for wear or roughness. When you put the tappet blocks back on the engine, you must have a set of alignment pins with which to properly align the tappet blocks. Jim's tools makes the pins.

Good Luck
Steve

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1 Answer

Looking for instructions to adjust valves on 1987 H.D.


If the engine is stock, there is no adjustment to the valves. The engine is equipped with hydraulic tappets that take up for any wear or heat expansion of the cylinders. The pushrods are non-adjustable but are of different lengths. They are color-coded as to what position they go in.

Now, if your engine has been modified and adjustable pushrods installed, they should work the same way unless they are way out of adjustment. Then, it depends on "whose" pushrods they are as not all pushrods have the same threaded ends on them. But, all is not lost.

Take one of the pushrods out of the engine and adjust the pushrod as short as it will go. Now, turn the end out until it makes the pushrod exactly 0.100" longer while counting the "flats" on the adjuster. When you install the pushrod, make sure the tappet is at it's lowest point in the bore. Put the pushrod in, don't forget the tube and the new O-rings, and adjust the pushrod out until you have zero backlash. Then adjust it out the additional number of "flats" that it took to make it exactly 0.100" longer. Lock the adjuster down. What you're doing here is the plunger of the tappet has a travel of 0.200" total and you're adjusting the pushrod so that the plunger is halfway in the middle of its travel so that it's got equal travel in both the up and down direction.

Good Luck

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1 Answer

No oil pressure for my 2005 Harley-Davidson Ultra Classic Electra Glide


camplate check valve sticking,good time for an upgrade SEcamplate,hydraulic camchain tensioners,high volume oil pump,comes as complete kit for about $420. add another $150 for adjustable pushrods and never worry about it again,or replace the existing component youd save maybe $180 bucks but youll be back
thats why they changed the camplate and tensioners in 07, I just did the complete conversion on an 02 heritage it costed with labor about 1100 in your case your looking at 7 to 800 dollars just to get you going for another 30 or 40,000 miles or less and then do it again Im for a 1 time fix myself

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As long as they are adjustable it's not too bad. Remember to change pushrods one at a time. First you have to pull the upper chrome covers off. These have a little (kind of) handle. They are halfed, but they look one piece. Pull down & out. 1: Once chrome covers are off, turn motor slightly until the valve your working on is closed & lifter is on lowest part of base circle on cam at BTC. in other words, while turning motor slightly in BOTH directions, lifter should be all the way down, and stay down. this assures that your not on or near the up ramp of the cam lobe. 2: Then you can remove pushrod by loosening lash adjustment (on bottom) until pushrod comes out. 3: Put new pushrod through partial chrome tube exactly as removed from old pushrod. 4: Set valve lash or pre-load, and then, one at a time, repeat procedure from step 1.

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