Question about KTM Motorcycles
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: ktm 125 sx 08 stuck in 1st gear
You have a bent shift fork and possibly something else going on. The engine will need to come out of the bike. Remove the top end, the flywheel and electrics, the clutch, the shift mechanism and kick starter and a few other parts. THEN you are ready to split the gearbox to get to the crankshaft, gears and shift forks.
You will need an impact driver, flywheel puller, case splitter, torque wrench and factory service manual, plus the normal screwdriver, pliers, etc.. Alternate to the special tools is taking it to the dealer and say "Fix it". I often tell people to take it to the shop just so they don't get into such an involved project and they now have a knowing eye and experienced hands working on the problem.
The repair cost will probably be $800 or so.
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Posted on Jun 21, 2009
Sorry to hear you have had a drama. It is often travelling at low speeds where you may experience problems like this, and come off the bike.
Things to look out for here are loose gravel or sand on the roadway where the problem occurred. This will make the tyres slid out from under you.
If the bike is brand new, another thing to look out for is products like tyre shine that may have been applied to the tyres whilst the bike may have been in the show room. Also new tyres have a wax coating that reduce levels of traction when brand new. you may have dipped a peg on the ground that could have levered the bike over on you also.
Hope this has helped you understand a little what has happened, perhaps get a biker mate, or bikeshop to check it out for you before you go riding again to be sure that there are no contaminants on the rubber surfaces of the tyres.
Happy to answer any questions you may have.
Posted on Jan 19, 2010
You have one of two things going on. (1) You need to check the kick stand switch, your bike thinks the kick stand is still down. It may have been loosened out of adjustment by vibration. If the kick stand switch is out of whack, it will restart as long as the clutch in pulled in. But as soon as you try to let out the clutch it will kill the engine, if it is in gear. (2) Next problem could be, you need to loosen up the clutch cable a little bit, The clutch control on the handle bar has a screw type of adjuster (clutch cable passes through it ), try loosening it till it's easy for you to move the bike without the engine shutting off. Hope it helps and comment if you need more clarification.
Posted on May 09, 2010
Testimonial: "I tightened the kickstand switch and it did the trick. I had some bad thought about my Honda and now feel grateful. Thanks alot, really!"
SOURCE: Kawasaki ZZR1100 C2: Fairing
If the fuel supply is working ok, and filter is already replaced then other possibilities causing this problem can be :-------
Bad ignition triger advance.
Stuck air mass meter flap.
Bad HT coil connection. ---------How's the air filter - clean or dirty? Remove the filter and try running without filter.Just try if for checking purpose. If it runs smooth with filter removed, then air filter is the issue.------- The handbook warns against running without a filter in case any dirt gets sucked in, so make sure the airbox is clean before you start it without the filter. If the filter is really sticky I would suspect it does need a clean. --------The electrical connections on the air flow meter (maf) also require cleaning or at least checking.-------- Also recheck the fuel filters position.I agree its replaced, but still remove and recheck fuel filters position.-------- There is an arrow indicating the direction of the flow.
A good pressure doesn't indicates a good flow and your engine may be starving for fuel.What fuel grade are you filling up the tank with? A lower grade of fuel may causes problems too.
Sometimes things as simple as a bad spark plug cap will generate the same problem.
Also, try to start your bike in a dark area and check if you see any sparks on the coils. You can even mist them with water (when the engine is off) and it will make it easier to see if you have a crack in the insulation. --------Also the fuel regulator / air flow metering unit could be stiff and responding slowly, that would result in the symptoms you describe. Have you checked it is moving freely?--------Also look for a leak in a manifold, even lose clamps on the rubber stacks. The next is a bad pressure regulator, that makes the fuel richen when the manifold pressure drops off and so would make it bog on initial throttle opening.------------This can mean a few things; partially blocked fuel filter, faulty pump (worm or leaking relief valve), tank not properly breathing, ehh, no doubt there's more. Other thing might be that your cooling water temperature sensor gives a wrong signal and therefore the ECU gives too little fuel. Take the return fuel line off the tank (extend it/other hose) and put it in a container. Then start the bike and rev her up. See if the return line keeps flowing, even if you rev it; that would secure sufficient pressure through the range (i.e. fuel pump and filter allow sufficient flow). See what that gets you.--------- This troubleshooting will help.Thanks.Helpmech.
Posted on Jun 03, 2011
SOURCE: KTM DUKE 690, not starting,
The battery needs to be in top condition to give enough power to turn that single cylinder engine. Charge the battery properly, not just with a battery conditioner like the Opitmate. When it's fully charged everything should be ok. If not, get a new battery and follow the instructions for charging it. If you aren't using the bike for more than a couple of weeks, get a battery conditioner to keep it fully charged.
Posted on Aug 05, 2011
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