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Have an indicator fault - checked bulb and this seems fine

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Hi, Anonymous before diagnosing any turn signal/running light/parking light issue make sure the bulb is good and the light fuse has continuity with a test light. If you have replaced you OEM lights with LED lights you are going to need a load equalizer. If no turn signals work the cause could be a faulty turn signal module or the connector going to it, look for corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets. Contact spray cleaner is great for removing corrosion. If your speedometer does not function properly it will have to be fixed first because your turn signal module gets the data from the speedometer for normal turn signal function. If your front turn signals don't work use a test light to check for power and ground at the bulb socket, then start backtracking the wiring through every wire connector to the turn signal switch/button and check for continuity, go all the way back to the fuse if necessary to find the cause of the malfunction. If your rear turn signals don't work check your rear fender wiring harness connector first for corroded, broken, loose pins/sockets, power, and a good ground, (the harness connector is usually located under the seat on the front of the rear fender) then keep tracing the wiring look for obvious harness damage caused by the rear tire. If you still can't find the malfunction backtrack from the rear fender wiring harness connector. If one side does not work you could have a faulty turn signal switch or module check for continuity. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Turn signals not working where all to check
Turn signals stopped working
Turn Signals NOT working
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/73-south-west/154896-help-turn-signals-not-working.html
diagnosing and repairing turn signal problems

Posted on Oct 04, 2016

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

One headlight stays on after turning car off.


with engine on, check lights, main beam and dip and side lights. Check tail lights work too.
With lights on, turn the indicator switch left for a few seconds then right. You are looking for odd behavior with lights.
It's a good indication of an earthing fault (grounding).
Turn engine off and see if lights-on warning alarm sounds.
Corrosion around connectors often causes light faults, check them all, if they seem sound then check the relays.
Another possibility is the switch itself. Wiggle it around very gently feeling for loose movement or flickering lights. The whole switch may need replacing. It's a start......after that then you need to check wiring loom. (very rarely the bulb is the fault so test them with a circuit tester)

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Green indicator light on dash no longer flashes


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Turn indicator light flashes quickly. bulbs fine


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Turn signal problem


and the strange thing is that when i turn on the alarm all four bulbs work fine?? That odviously rules out the bulbs and sockets. Any suggestions?? Many thanks turn signal?? check the switch on the bar. its best to take it apart but?? it may not be making a good contact. try spraying some wd-40 in there. dont worry this is good for it. otherwise you can check the voltage from the switchetc to pin point the problem.,,

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1 Answer

Maybe a bulb going bad?


Without doing some tests this is difficult to know.

I do not remember if the bulb in this model is a gas discharge type or a filament type. I will first indicate here for the filament type.

Make sure that the unit is switched off, and is unpluged from the AC mains.

With a DVM it is possible to check the socket contacts. The unit would have to be unassembled to gain access to the lead wires that go to the socket, and the socket disconnected. With the lamp installed, use the ohms scale to see if the resistance of the bulb's filament can be measured.

If the socket contacts are okay, it is possible that the fault is the power supply to the bulb, or it can that there is a cooling fault, or maybe the bulb itself has an intermittant where when it gets heated up it temporarily becomes open circuit.

The way that most electronic equipment is designed today, it is microprocessor controled. There are sensors for temperature, current draw, quality of voltage regulation, air flow for cooling, specific performance checks, and other similiar things. If there is an error, the uPC will shut the unit down. In most cases, an error code of sorts is indicated. In some equipment, there is no displayed error code.

For the gas discharge type of bulb, to test the socket contacts to the bulb, instead of measuring the heater resistance, you will need a dummy insert to replace the bulb that has a zero resistance for testing the socket. You insert the dummy tester, and measure of the leads with the DVM to indicate if the contacts are okay to the bulb.

A less sure way to test the socket contacts is to disconnect the socket from the supply, and measure the resistance of each lead to its respective contact in the socket. This will indicate if there is open or closed resistance to the socket contacts, but does not respect the tollerance for the contacts to make a connection to the bulb contacts on its base.

In the service shop, after all the above has been done, the tech would do his tests by trying modules and parts until the fault is located. That is if the fault was not the socket.


Jerry G.








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