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Toe in settings - Motorcycles

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Toe in on a motorcycle

Posted on Mar 31, 2015

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I need the rear suspension adjustment figures for wh statesman


From the Holden Service CD:

The toe-in specification is deliberately quoted as an angle because wherever possible toe-in should be measured in degrees. Refer below for the recommended wheel alignment settings. These settings are at curb weight, which is the vehicle
in a condition of full fluids, full fuel, no people or luggage.


Front Toe-in Degrees Total 0°10' ± 0°10'
Degrees Per Wheel 0°05' ± 0°5'
Camber - 0°30' ± 0°20'
Caster 7°45' ± 1°15'

Rear Toe : 0 ± 1mm (0°± 0?10mins)
Camber : -1°30mins to -2°30mins
Torque Settings : 65 ± 5Nm

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1 Answer

Toe out on turns


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1 Answer

Front Wheel Allignment


On these LH body cars, camber is not adjustable. Neither is caster. Those angles are preset by the suspension geometry. However, specifications for them ARE published. Generally, if either of those two parameters are out of spec, then it's likely something is worn or damaged and needs to be replaced.

The only adjustable parameters are to the front and rear toe but specified as "Total Toe" - see note below.
The alignment specs are as follows ...

ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS AT VEHICLE CURB HEIGHT
A. FRONT WHEELS
  1. CAMBER
    Acceptable -0.6° to +0.6°
    Preferred +0.0°
    Side to Side Differential
    Acceptable 0.7° or less
    Preferred 0.0°
  2. TOTAL TOE - Specified in degrees. See Note Below
    Acceptable 0.4° in -to- 0.0° out
    Preferred 0.2° in
  3. CASTER* (reference angle)
    Acceptable +2.0° -to- +4.0°
    Preferred +3.0°
    *Side to Side Caster Difference not to exceed
    Acceptable 1.0° or less
    Preferred 0.0°
B. REAR WHEELS
  1. CAMBER
    Acceptable -0.6° -to- +0.4°
    Preferred +0.1°
  2. TOTAL TOE** - Specified in degrees. See Note Below.
    Acceptable 0.2° out -to- 0.4° in
    Preferred -0.1° in
    **TOE OUT when backed onto alignment rack is TOE IN when driving.
  3. THRUST ANGLE
    Acceptable -0.15° -to- +0.15°
Note: "Total Toe" is the arithmetic sum of the left and right Toe settings. Positive is Toe-in. Negative is Toe-out. Total Toe must be equally split between left and right wheels. Left and Right Toe must be equal to within 0.02° (2 one hundredths of a degree).

Courtesy RJK & Concorde Shop Manual

Mar 08, 2014 | 1994 Chrysler Concorde

1 Answer

Toe in. toe out. or no toe for mazda bravo, dual cab. 2600, 2 wheel drive


It is slightly toed in, but hold on you can't set this without an alignment machine or a possible dangerous handling problem will occur.

Nov 06, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Toe-in, toe-out for mazda bravo 2600,1997 model, dual cab


This must be set on an alignment machine you just can't move the front wheel to what you think is correct, it must be right on. They toe in slightly on most vehicles

Nov 06, 2012 | 2003 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

What is a total toe adjustment sleeve on a 2006 f 250


There are two sleeves. One that adjusts total toe and one that adjusts the steering wheel. When you turn the total toe sleeve, it will push both wheels away causing more positive toe or pull them in causing more negative toe. You get total toe where you want it and then you set the steering wheel straight using the second sleeve.

Mar 31, 2012 | 2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty

1 Answer

Uneven cupping or wear on the inside of front tires.I believe its toe setting. you set the toe on 2006 trail blazer 4/4 (HOW) ?raje


Cupping and uneven wear are for two different reasons. Cupping is caused by either an unbalanced tire/rim or bad shock. Uneven wear can be an alignment issue. I don't know how to set the toe in.

Aug 24, 2011 | 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer

1 Answer

My lawn tractor pulls to the right when driving can i fix this?


The Toe In/Toe Out will have to be adjusted (if the steering rods to each front wheel have sleeves), just like on a car.

Toe-in is the operating angle of front wheels on a riding tractor. If the front edge of the wheels point inward, towards each other, then the wheels have toe-in. If the front wheels point outward, the unit has toe-out (or negative toe-in). Adjustment of toe-in is necessary to maintain proper steering control.
Unlike automobiles, our tractors have pre-set camber and caster settings. Therefore no camber or caster adjustment is necessary.
Acceptable toe-in adjustment range for all of our lawn & garden tractors is anywhere between 1/16"-5/16". With 1/8" serving as the optimal range.
Detailed toe-in adjustment procedures for the various models of tractors are reviewed in the "Adjustments" section of the Operators Manual for the tractor.
If tires are not toed-in properly after adjustment, it is likely that other part(s) need service or adjustment. axles, wheel bushings, control arms and other steering components may be worn or damaged and will need inspection. Service these items as needed.
You haven't stated your make and model, so I can't send you the manual with the exact procedure for your machine.

Jun 12, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

Hi i need a replacement front toe strap for LQ 1500 LS3


Is this for the binding? you may be able to buy a toe-cap strap set from Burton or Ride (both sell sets for around 30.00) You will have to compare the mounting design of the toe ******** the burton/rides vs your binding

Feb 13, 2010 | Liquid Force Winter Sports

3 Answers

Wheel alignment


The main cause of steering wheel off-center is toe misalignment or rear axle misalignment. Toe can fall out of adjustment fairly easily as a result of daily driving, so you can imagine the effects of pounding it through 4WD trails on a regular basis.

Toe is designed to preload the steering linkage to remove play in the system. You can visualize toe angle from above; toe-in, or positive toe, is displayed when the leading edges of the tires are closer together than in the rear. Toe-out, or negative toe, is when the leading edges are farther apart. Zero toe is when wheels are pointed straight ahead and are parallel to each other. A slight amount of positive toe is preferred for most vehicles.

Improper toe angle isn't the only reason a steering wheel won't center. This phenomenon can also be caused by the steering linkage not being centered when toe was adjusted in the first place. This can be corrected by recentering the steering wheel and readjusting toe to proper specs. A bent steering arm or linkage component can also cause the steering wheel to be off-center. I've also seen this occur due to loose steering arm bolts. An off-center steering wheel contributes to tire wear because as the wheels are turned off dead center they turn toe out and increase tire scrubbing.

Sometimes an off-center steering wheel is accompanied by a wheel pull to one direction or the other and could be the result of a damaged component somewhere in the vehicle - a bent axlehousing could be throwing off the rear toe setting (rear toe setting is often overlooked). A bent frame or overly worn suspension bushings can also be the cause. If your wheel is off-center and also pulling, it can be as simple as incorrect tire pressure from side to side. Memory steer is another effect that is usually associated with an off-center steering wheel. This is when the steering wheel returns to an off-center position and can result in steering pull or drift after completing a turn. This can be caused by binding in the steering linkage as well as power steering system issues such as leaks or improper hydraulic pressure. Steering linkage bind occurs when proper geometry is not maintained in lifted vehicles.

Many 4x4s don't have factory provisions for adjusting caster and camber and rear toe and camber, but the front toe setting is easily adjusted. Toe is controlled by the steering linkage. By loosening the adjusters on the tie rod and shortening or lengthening the tie rod by turning the ends, toe angle can be adjusted. This should not be a substitute for regular professional wheel alignment jobs and is simply a tip that can be used to put off frequent trips to the alignment shop due to regular trips to the trail.
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Before determining toe angle and/or performing adjustments, it's a good idea to start the engine and turn the steering wheel side to side to relieve pressure in the system. Then, turn the wheels straight and shut off the engine. You should also roll the vehicle back and forth a few times between measurements.

Get someone to hold the other end of the measuring tape and measure the leading toe distance. This is the distance between the leading edges of the front tires. You'll compare the results to the distance between the trailing edges of the tires directly opposite from where you took the first measurement.

The higher number will indicate toe direction: higher number in leading edge indicates toe out; higher number at trailing edge displays toe in. Larger-than-stock tires require more positive toe for best results.

Once the necessary measurements are performed to determine what the current toe setting is, you can loosen the bolts on the tie-rod adjuster sleeve so that the tie-rod ends can be rotated. Don't forgot to tighten the adjusters when you're done as damage or injury could result.

The tie-rod ends thread into the tie rod. The ends can be threaded in or out of the tie rod to make the assembly longer or shorter. Longer creates more toe out; shorter toe in. Don't make huge adjustments all at once. It's best to adjust and measure a few times to achieve appropriate setting.
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I hope this helps you if you were looking to do a toe alignment yourself if you have decent knowledge of component location on a jeep.

Jan 30, 2009 | 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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