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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: changed the battery. The alarm
Yes this is an Alarm issue that's why your vehicle is shutting down as soon as you press on the brake pedal. Is this an aftermarket alarm or stock alarm? Sounds like aftermarket alarm to me and if it is, the way fix this issue is as soon as you put the red n black terminal on the battery and the alarm goes off press your alarm key right away to turn it off. If this doesn't work put your key on the ignition after you have installed the battery and just put it on the "ON" position engine OFF then click on your alarm remote once again.
Posted on Sep 23, 2008
The sounding alarm maybe a security system installed by in the truck. Disconnecting the battery will only temporarily solve your problem, but will resume once you reconnect the battery for electrical power.
You must find the keychain/remote of the security system and disable it. If you are unable to locate this, you can have it disconnected by a qualified automotive electrician.
Word of caution though, if you are using the keyless entry system with the security system, this will be disabled until you install a receiver with such function.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 30, 2009
Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.
To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.
Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.
Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.
Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.
Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
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