How much fork oil in each leg - 2008 kawasaki KX250F

Begin by loosening the upper triple-clamp pinch bolts and breaking the fork caps loose while the fork is still held by the lower triple clamp. You will need to remove the caps to refill the fork tubes with oil.
Determine if the fork legs have oil drain plugs near the bottom of the legs. If they do, you are in luck and will be able to change the oil without removing the fork legs. Put old newspapers on the floor under the front end. Place a drain pan under the fork legs and remove the drain plugs, one side at a time. Hold the front brake and push down on the fork several times to pump the oil out. When oil stops coming out, reinstall the plugs using new sealing washers.
Without Drain Plugs
If there are no drain plugs (look carefully), you'll need to remove the fork legs to drain the oil. At this point you can decide to have it done professionally or do the work yourself. We'll cover the main, basic steps. Refer to a shop manual to learn all the exact procedures involved. Some motorcycles may require fairings, handlebars, etc. to be removed.
Support the motorcycle either on the centerstand (if equipped) or by using a motorcycle jack under the engine. If you use the centerstand, you may need to place a sandbag on the rear of the seat, hold the front end up using straps from the rafters, or support the bike underneath the engine. Use tie-downs to steady the bike on the jack. Grasp the lower fork legs and try to push and pull the fork toward the back of the bike and forward to check for loose steering head bearings. Inspect the pleated rubber fork boots, if equipped. Check for signs of fork oil leakage and any grooves in the fork tube wear surfaces where the seals make contact. Also check for looseness between the fork legs and tubes that would indicate bushing wear.
Remove the front wheel and axle assembly. Support and tie the brake caliper(s) out of the way. Remove the front fender and speedometer cable, if equipped. With the fork leg fully extended, remove the top cap from a leg. Be prepared as there may be some spring pressure pushing against the cap.
Loosen and remove the pinch bolt from the lower triple clamp and lower the fork leg. Note any shims or washers and spring. Turn the leg upside down in a drain pan until oil stops flowing out. You may have to move the damping rod in and out to get the oil out. Repeat the procedure for the other side.
Reinstall the fork legs and other removed components in the reverse order of removal.
All Models
Add the exact amount and type of oil recommended by the manufacturer. Some motorcycles call for the use of a dipstick to determine how much oil to use instead of just pouring a certain amount of oil back in. Follow the manufacturer's shop manual recommendations.
Carefully install the threaded top caps by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten the pinch bolts and top caps to the factory-specified torques. After the brakes are installed, pump up the lever until the brakes feel normal again. Once the bike is assembled and on the floor, push down on the front end to verify the suspension's response. Turn the steering from its left to right limits to ensure nothing is binding, and check all controls including the throttle for proper operation.

Front Fork Oil cc (right leg):170
Front Fork Oil cc (left leg):170
Fork oil grade:10w
Valve Clearance Cold - Inlet:0.08
Valve Clearance Cold - Exhaust:0.08
Engine Oil Grade SAE:10w/30
Engine Oil Classification API:sg
Engine Oil quantity with filter (litres):0.9
Idle Speed (rpm):1400 - 1500
Spark Plugs Gap (mm):0.8 - 0.9
2 Stroke Tank - Litres:No
Float Height:14 mm

Is you have taken the forks apart and changed the fork bushes, ie forks are totally dry, you will need about 520ml in each fork leg. When refilling and will the springs removed, add about 550ml per leg, the stroke the forks numerous times to expel any excess air. Then with forks compressed the oil level should be adjusted to 119mm from the top of the fork to the oil, ie the air gap to the oil. The add springs and spacers and reassemble.
Red zed.proboards.com

To change the fork oil, look down on the lower part of each fork leg just above the axle on the backside of each leg and you'll find an Allen plug or small screw. Take this screw out, hold the front brake and push down on the front forks. The fork oil will come out of the tube. Do both sides at the same time. Once you get the oil out of them, reinstall the drain plug. Then, take the large hex cap on ONE TUBE AT THE TIME and pour the correct amount of the correct fork oil into each tube. There is a specific amount of oil that must be poured into each leg. Since you simply drained your forks instead of disassembling them, you should use what is known as the "Wet" quantity of oil. I'm pretty sure your bike takes 9.0 ounces of oil in each leg. Call your local dealer and they'll tell you how much oil to put in. Your bike came from the factory with "Type E" oil in the forks. The viscosity of the oil determines the dampening effect of the forks. Heavier oil will stiffen the front forks, a lighter viscosity of oil will make the front end softer. You can check the Internet for fork oils and they should give you a comparison of what weight oil is equivalent to "Type E" oil. I think PJ 1's 30 weight oil is the same as type E Harley oil. Use only "fork oil" in your front forks as it has special "anti-foaming" agents in it. If the oil foams up, you'll lose the dampening effect in your forks.

Good Luck
steve

All Honda VT1100C models require 449cc (15.2 oz) of fork oil per fork leg. However, the VT1100C2 requires 482cc (16.3 oz.) of fork oil per leg. Honda recommends using SS-8 fork oil.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302

hi its been quite a while since i have done 1 of these but if the bike has the original forks on it i am sure you can do this without removing the complete fork of the bike, after suporting your bike you can chose to completely remove the fork if you wish, i would first try it without removing the complete fork first, remove front wheel, remove front mudguard and inner stabilizer, keep all bolts together in a safe place, you will need a clean container, to catch the fork oil,(TIP) if you catch all the oil and alow time for it to drip dry you can measure the amount of oil that was in the fork by pouring it from the container into a measuring jug, this will save time if you dont know the specific amount of oil required, to drain the oil you will need a suitable alun key to undo the fork leg/tube securing bolt, you will find this in the lower of the fork leg where the wheel spindle fits, turn the key anti clockwise to undo it, hopefully it will crack loose, if it just spins and doesnt undo you may need air tools to shake it loose, once the bolt is undone secure the fork leg and remove the bolt, the oil will then desperse from the fork, moving the fork lower slowley up and down will help rifle the oil out, make sure the sealing washer is on the bolt or you may have to fish around inside the old oil for it, when you are happy all of the oil has been removed, carefuly pull the fork leg down all the way until it comes of the stanchion, pour any oil into your container, if when you pull on the leg it does not come off this will be because the fork stanchion on your bike has bushes that are fited to it, and not to the lower leg, in this case you will have to remove the whole fork, remove, the dust cover from the fork leg inside you will see a circlip remove this and washer, remove cap from fork top and pour out your oil, and fork spring noteing direction , remove the lower bolt, fix the fork lower in a vice at the very bottom of the leg wher the flat area is, do not grip tubular area,then to remove the seal you will need to push down on the fork stancion to its lowest point, and sharply pull up useing the stancion as a hammer, repeat this untill your fork seal is removed, replace in reverse order, good luck hope this helps. paul

HI WEATHER YOU NEED TO SPLIT THE FORKS OR NOT, YOU SHOULD, SOME OF THE OLDER HONDAS REMOVING THE LOWER FORK BOLT, ACCESABLE WHEN THE SPIINDLE HAS BEEN REMOVED, THIS WILL DRAIN THE OIL OUT OF THE FORK LEG THERE WILL BE A WASHER OR SEALING RING ON THIS SO BE CAREFUL NOT TO LOOSE IT WHEN YOU REMOVE THE BOLT, USING A BOWL OR CONTAINER TO CATCH THE OIL, UNDO THE BOLT IN THE LOWER FORK LEG, AFTER ALL THE OIL HAS BEEN REMOVED, PULL DOWN ON THE FORK TUBE IF THIS PULLS OUT OF THE LEG THEN YOU CAN COMPLETE THE JOB QUITE EASY, REMOVE DUST SEAL, CIRCLIP AND OIL SEAL, THE LATER WILL BE QUITE TIGHT IN THE LEG, WHEN YOU EASEMBLE THE FORK YOU WILL HAVE TO UNDO THE TOP FORK NUT TO REPLENISH TTHE OIL

The best way,is to drain a fork leg into a container, and measure the amount. however if you cant do that, start of with about 100ml in each leg, test them out, if to soft, you can always add a little more oil. from memory, a 250ml bottle of fork oil was enough to do both legs on most bikes.

look at the fork legs at the bottom there is a bolt on both legs its only a small bolt,,, undo this bolt and the fork oil will drain out,, to refill the forks take the top nut off the fork leg near the handel bars,,,,,,dont over fill with oil,,,and only use the proper oil,,or the seals will blow out and the forks will be very stiff

There is a bit of directions on how to change the oil. I will give you a link to a site that has pictures with step-by-step directions that will work for any bike fork.

http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/svs_fork_oil/

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask..