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6v magneti marelli ignition coil wiring / terminals.

Hi, I have a magneti marelli 6v B101 ignition coil on my 1960 Moto Guzzi Zigolo 110cc that I am rebuilding. One of the terminals has a letter "R" next to it and the other terminal is blank. Can anyone tell me which terminal goes to earth. Any help greatly appreciated.

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The blank one and you can check this out after the bike is running or at least when you get the coil to fire by placing the lead part of a pencil in the gap between the spark plug or a good ground and the gap between the pencil and the spark plug wire so you can see the spark jump to the plug or ground from the plug wire and if the spark flash is on the wire side of the pencil the coil the coil is wired with wrong polarity if the system is a positive ground system. The coil will work no matter what the polarity ie no matter which of the terminals you connect to power and which you connect to ground, the only difference will be a somewhat weaker spark if electron flow is reversed from what it should be i.e. if it is from negative or ground to positive on a negative ground system or as on some older British ignition systems from positive to negative on a positive ground system. The flash will appear on the side of the pencil lead away from the current flow i.e. the flash will occur as the current leaves the pencil lead. Hope this helps.

Posted on Dec 11, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Moto Guzzi Nevada Classic 750 will not start


Hi, David and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enrichner.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
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10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
14. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
15. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
16. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
17. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
18. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
19. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
20. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
21. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
22. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
23. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

My Moto Guzzi has been charging for 2 weeks, battery ok, lights come on, press start and nothing, tried to bump start a no go. ?


Hi, Adam before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, especially "AGM" batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid or starter circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
14. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

12.000 mi.- when hot it idles at 2,000 rpm. after being turned off hard time starting.


Hi, Frank for hard starting the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or have an improper gap or are partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition.
3. Battery nearly discharged, should have 12.5 volts.
4. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Throttle controls not adjusted correctly.
6. Water or dirt in the fuel system.
7. Water or dirt in the carburetor.*
8. Intake air leak.
9. Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or fuel line closed off, restricting fuel flow.*
10. Enricher valve inoperative.*
11. Engine lubricant to heavy (winter operation).
12. Ignition is not functioning properly (possible sensor failure).
13. Faulty ignition coil.
14. Valves sticking.
* Carbureted models.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1 Answer

Starter engages, engine turns over, will fire for a half second but why won't it start?


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Fuel line to the carburetor or throttle body pinched or kinked.
8. Carburetor float stuck.
9. Fuel injectors clogged.
10. Severely discharged or damaged battery you need 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
11. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
12. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box.
Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
13. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty MAP, CKP, O2, TPS, sensors.
14. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
15. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
16. Faulty CDI box.
17. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
18. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
19. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

1990 Dodge Ramcharger won't start. Battery output 12v, voltage across coil terminals 6v, voltage output at coil port to coil wire 6v, voltage of coil wire output to distributor 6v. Engine will c


There should be a small white ceramic block on the firewall - this component cuts the battery voltage from 12 to 9 volts for the coil and ignition system. It has 4 wires and is called a ballast resistor.
You may need a book with the wiring diagram to be able to test it. You should have battery voltage going in and something like 9 volts coming out.
You can also run a wire with a fuse from the battery to the positive side of the coil to check the system. Disconnect the factory wire from the coil first.

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1 Answer

2000 harley electra glide fuel inj hard to start when cold


Hi Denny, and the usual supects are:
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2. Spark plug cables in bad condition.
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5. Throttle controls not adjusted correctly.
6. Water or dirt in fuel system/tank
7. Water or dirt in carburator.
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9. Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or fuel line closed off, restricking fuel flow.
10. Inrichner valve inoperative.
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1 Answer

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For a prime suspect please visit website below. Good luck and have nice day.
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1 Answer

Coils on a Le Mans 3


one on each coil. The other a dual spade connection which should join together the two coils and the live terminal coming through from the ignition module. Is this correct. I have a broken screw cap for the HT lead on one that needs replacing I'll try to source one if not does anyone one have a spare lying about.Cheers Guys,I am trying to get the beast firing again, having problems, I am using a Newtronic system.,Knock the centre out of an old plug so that you can slide a scewdriver or similar through it. Put a timing disc on the front of the engine (alternator) Rock the engine back and too past tdc noting position, say 2.00mm either side of tdc (with a dial gauge on top of the screwdriver). Centre, then touch the flywheel here with a drill point. Turn engine back required amount (34 degree?) and touch flywheel with drill point again. I do different colours left and right than I know which cylinder Im looking at. Ignore every other mark on the flywheel. Set to these marks at 5000 rpm with strobe Can't set Newtronics static ,,,

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