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Hi my sons got a kx65 iv taken magneto cover off an transmission oil is running into magneto caseing it's 2000 model is it main bearing seals bike starts an runs splutters tho

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  • 34 Answers

A faulty main bearing seal on a two stroke engine
can allow the fuel mix into the magneto area
and cause running problems. Transmission oil
should not reach this area at all. Check the seal
and also check for other possibilities like a crack
in the engine cases. Two strokes can be pressure
tested to ensure a good seal.

Posted on Dec 07, 2014

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

ollie reece
  • 1167 Answers

SOURCE: bought a 2004 kx65 for my son last night. Bike ran

hi mate it could be to do with the correct mixture off oil/petrol you should buy a mixing bottle on ebay with a ratio of 32/1 and make sure the choke is off when you ride it good luck

Posted on Apr 03, 2009

OneRide
  • 379 Answers

SOURCE: have devolped a small leak on 2005 road king.

Spray it off at the car wash to remove all the oil , then spray Right Guard (Yes, that Right Guard) on the area of the leak. It will show up, but you may not be able to see exactly where. There are a couple spots where it can leak. The jackshaft oil seal, as you said, transmission output shaft (clutch shaft) on the trans itself, the inner primary seal where the trans shaft runs thru, the engine sprocket shaft oil seal, inner primary O-ring, the bolts that hold the inner primary to the engine/trans, the primary chaincase gasket and the drain plug. Hopefully when you get it apart, you will see which seal is leaking. If not, replace them all. Still want to fix the leak? LOL

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: High Idle On Start-up.

Most fuel injected motorcycles do start up in a "fast idle" mode. Although I don't know much about fuel injection on Harleys (H-D will not tell you much about it unles you are one of their technicians), I don't think the system is equipped with an engine temp sensor. Since the crank case sensor get it's pulses from pockets cut into the outer edge of the left side flywheel half, the sensor will have oil on it.

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

isaid
  • 302 Answers

SOURCE: ktm 50 bogging down gas in clutch oil

BAD CASE SEAL, SORRY BUT U R GONNA HAVE 2 GET OUT DA WALLET AND BUY A REPAIR MANUAL 2 GET PROCEDURE AND SPECS 4 UR BIKES THE GOOD NEWS IS IT HAPPENS ALL DA TIME AND DA REPAIR IS PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD. THE COST OF DA MANUAL WILL TAKE CARE OF ITSELF MANY TIMES OVER WITH SELF MADE REPAIRS

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

ollie reece
  • 1167 Answers

SOURCE: i have a dt 125 field bike will not kick start

try squirting some fuel on the inlet and see if it firse get back to me with results

Posted on Oct 11, 2009

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1 Answer

What are the steps in replacing the rear seal in a 1966 ford f-100 with a 352 engine?


I wouldn't be surprised if you didn't have to remove the engine/transmission, split the trans from the engine, remove the TC or clutch/pressure plate, (you should have drained engine oil and auto trans oil before doing this), remove the oil pan, remove the rear most main bearing cap, rotate a new seal into place, replace rear main bearing cap, torque, etc. and reassemble.

Worst case you may have to remove harmonic balancer and front timing chain cover, front seal, release all the connecting rod caps and main bearing caps, remove the crankshaft, replace the rear main seal and reassemble. It's a 1966 engine...you should consider replacing the front timing chain with a roller chain as well as rod and main bearing inserts if you have to do all this.

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First off, determine if it's transmission fluid, or primary chain case fluid.
I had the seal on the transmission main shaft go on me once (the seal under the transmission rear drive pulley, behind the inner primary cover).
This can be changed with the transmission still in the bike, but the entire primary needs to come apart, and the transmission sprocket/pulley removed to access it.

If it's primary fluid, it's probably the seal on the inner primary case that the transmission shaft runs through and that the clutch assembly bolts to.
Again, the entire primary needs to be torn down to access this.

Either way, the cost of the part isn't bad, but the labor is the killer, as it's a 6-10 hour job, if I remember the book's quote.

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Lots of Camrys do this.

The oil will typically leak from the rear main bearing seal between engine and transmission, but that will appear at the bottom of the joint line, and will not reach the exhaust. This leak is expensive to fix and is usually left as is.

A leak from the cam cover gasket can drip into the exhaust.

The other typical leak is from the distributor shaft o-ring seal. This appears at the top of the join line between engine and trans, and can blow back onto the exhaust.

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Try running some of that high-mileage engine oil next time you do an oil change (it helps to swell engine seals slightly). If the problem clears up or is reduced, then it's likely that the rear main oil seal is starting to leak a little. The rubber seals will harden up and shrink a little with age.
I would also powerwash the entire area clean, so that way any leak will be easier to monitor and pinpoint.

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You don't say what engine it has. The 4-cyl was a better than the V6 for oil leaks.

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2001 kx65 misses very bad when trying to rev up. problem started at the end of last year. Cleaned carb (whistle clean) checked air filter, spark plug and exhaust. Sometimes it will rev up but not all the...


I would check the jetting by the color of the plug. If it's black, go smaller main. If it's white, go larger on the main. If jetting won't cure it, it probably has a crank seal out. My kid used to race these, and he blew out a crank seal trying to start it with the wash plug in the exhaust. Did the same thing as you're describing. Good luck!

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Gearbox oil may be getting into the crank area. Check the oil in the crank, is it motor oil or two stroke oil? If it is motor oil then you will need to split the center case and clean/re-seal the case halves. Be sure to install new crank seals. New crank bearings? If 2 stroke oil, just put a cup of gas in the crank to thin the oil, rotate the crank a few times to mix gas and oil, then just tip the bike over to dump the mix out of the case. If the bike has an oil pump, see if you can lessen the stroke of the pump. If mixing 2 stroke oil in the gas tank, Be sure to use only 2 stroke engine oil at 32 to 1 ratio. That equals 4 ounces of oil to a gallon of gas.

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1 Answer

OIL GOIN FROM GEARBOX OUT MUFFLER


Thats not likely. What you are seeing is excess oil from you gas and oil mixture. Not sure if your still running the oil injection pump but it sounds like you have been running a very rich oil/fuel mixture.
The gearbox oil is not accessible through the crankcase. They a totally separate sealed sections of the motor. If by chance you are losing gearbox oil your bike will billow a very white disgusting smelly cloud of smoke. If that is what is happening you may have a right side crank seal blown which will allow the oil to be sucked from the gearbox into the crankcase. Hopefully this is not the problem because with your model I'm 85% certain you will have to split the cases to replace the main seal on the right side engine center case. If thats the case I'd highly recommend you replace both right and left main seals as well as main bearings.
You will need some special tools to do this job. I can tell you what you need to do the job and if you like to DIY I can tell you how to do it and what to look out for.
Best of luck.

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