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TOOK BATTERY OUT FOR WINTER PUT BACK IN SPARKED NOW HAVE NO LIGHTS WONT START COULD IT BE A FUSE OR RELAY WHERE WOULD IT BE

CHECKED BATTERY 13.8

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  • Motorcycles Expert
  • 299 Answers

Follow the positive wire it will go to the solinoid and you should find a fuse

Posted on Dec 02, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: bike will not start no power

Touch a 12" piece of wire to one terminal then touch the other end of the wire to the other terminal. Got a really good spark? No spark = bad battery. Okay, so you do get a good spark. Check the wiring harness for an unplugged wire. Also check for loose connections and burned wires. Bad ignition switch? Kill switch turned on?

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: bike wont start replace start solenoid.when

You didn't mention what year model your bike is so I'll just generalize my response. Since you said that you replaced the solenoid, I'll assume that your bike is a 1988 model or earlier.

Your bike has a starter relay if it still has the stock wiring on it. Harley has used a starter relay since 1965 on the first model of ElectraGlide. Usually, it's underneath the battery tray or the seat or around that area.

On the back of your solenoid, you have three wire connections. Two very large connectors and one small connector. Make sure your bike is out of gear (in neutral) and use an old screwdriver to short between the large connector that comes from the battery and the small wire connection. The starter should engage and try to start the engine. If the ignition switch is on, it will start the engine. The starter will turn using this method with or without the switch being in the "on" position. If the starter works using this method, the problem is in either the relay or the neutral switch. If the starter does not turn the engine over, the problem is in the solenoid.

Now, let's check a few things. The small connector on the back of the solenoid should have a green or pink (depending on year) wire on it. Using a voltmeter or a test light, make sure you have voltage at the connector when you press the starter button with the switch in the "ON' position. If not, follow the wire to it's source, the relay.

The starter relay can be one of several different designs used throughout the years. It could be a small plastic cube, a small metal can, or a round phonelic relay. The relay should have four connections on it. A "hot" wire, a wire from the handlebar switch, the wire going to the starter, and a ground. The ground may be through the case itself. On the older Shovelhead bikes (1984 and earlier) there was a small short black wire that ran from the starter relay to the transmission for the ground. This wire must be intact or the relay would not work due to lack of a ground.

When you turn the switch on, one of the wires to the starter relay should become "hot". When you press the start button, you should hear a slight click and another of the smaller wires should now be "hot" as well, the one going to the starter.

On some year (1972 and later) models, the neutral switch was wired in with the starter relay. This was to prevent the bike from starting while "in gear" by disabling the relay. You'll have to figure this one out for yourself since I don't know what year model your bike is.

Now, you said you had power to the solenoid when you pushed the starter switch. So, let's assume that the starter failed the first test to told you aboue. If so, the problem is still most likely in the solenoid. Inside the solenoid, there is a large plunger with a copper disc on it. When you depress the starter switch, the coil in the solenoid becomes magnetized and pulls the plunger towards the back of the solenoid. This does two things, it engages the starter drive with the ring gear on the outer clutch drum and makes a high current electrical connection. The copper disc makes contact between the two large connections on the back of the solenoid from the inside. This connects the battery to the starter motor through the solenoid. If the black phonelic plate on the back of the solenoid is cracked or the contacts inside of it are badly burned, it will not work.

Now, if the solenoid is working correctly and you are getting voltage to your starter, it could be the brushes or something inside the starter. This is indicated if the starter trys to turn the engine over but just can't. It won't have enough power if the starter field windings are bad.

I hope I've given you something here that will help you solve your problem. This is basically the electrical part of the starter system. There are mechanical parts as well. If you hear the starter turning but the engine doesn't turn over, you have a mechanical problem. You can either repost or you can contact me directly at wd4ity@bellsouth.net I'll help if I can. Good Luck!

Posted on Nov 05, 2009

  • 167 Answers

SOURCE: charged battery up for bike because would not start

?.....was the bang when you tried to start the bike...or as you turned ignition on?...if when you turned ignition on sounds like you need to check wireing...if bang was when you truned eneing over it could be unburt petrol that banged when bike tried to fire up !!...

Posted on Feb 17, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: daelim roadwin, no spark cant find fuses?

yeah wat the other guy said

Posted on Jun 28, 2010

  • 738 Answers

SOURCE: my kawasaki el 250 wont start, and the lights wont

hi have you checked if you are getting 12v dc to ignition switch from the battery?

Posted on Jan 23, 2011

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Good Morning,. I found this for you.. worth a shot:
  • verify that the main fuse is not blown. It would be inside the starter relay. To locate the starter relay, follow the cable from the battery's + terminal;
  • if the battery and the main fuse checks good, then check the voltage on the red wire from the starter relay to the ignition switch;
  • do the same and check for the presence of +12 to the brown wire from the ignition switch to the CDI.
  • Best regards
  • Ck

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I had a similar problem where the battery was ok but there was no sound from the starter and also there no lights on in the dash when the key was turned. Checked the fuse and checked wire from the fuse back to the ignition switch. The wire from the fuse was ok in fuse box but had no voltage at the ignition sw. The was also no voltage to terminal 30 in the starter relay. Ran a new wire from the fuse to the ignition and it fixed everything. Check for voltage at terminal 30 on the starter relay

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Hope you can read that? Check the fuses for those relays, the two on the right. Not only check the fuses, use a test lite to check for voltage on the fuse circuit. Check the four fuses on the left, also, some are hot all the time, some go hot with the key on.
The top two wires at relay is the load side. The bottom two wires are on the control side of relay. The control side needs voltage and ground. Your gem module controls ground. Sometimes when battery voltage is lost, some modules may need to be reprogrammed? I don't have that info. In my opinion, clicking is either intermittent voltage or ground. Right now I'm thinking ground, controlled by the gem model. I could be wrong?
gem module-zypwybkd0qxqgfeaobqkwdfc-5-0.jpg

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Put in new battery still no power. was riding and everything went dead. the bike is a 98 cbr 1100


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Initially, have you checked the 30A main fuse? It would be inside the starter relay. To locate the starter relay, follow the cable from the battery's + terminal.

Good luck and thank you for asking.

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