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I have no compression. After recently replacing the stator. I would like some input on possble problems.

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This could be a different problem for one type of motorcycle to another so it is imperative that you advise what type of bike you have. It is unusual to say the least, that if all you did was replace a stator you would now not have compression. Is it possible that you had something in the induction system apart and there is a rag or such plugging it up OR like an engine timing/cam drive chain off?

Posted on Nov 28, 2014

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Retiming the stator with the engine

Posted on Nov 28, 2014

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I was out riding my kx 125 and the engine just died. It won't start and the engine just backfires. It has plenty of gas and the oil is good too. Checked spark pllug and it was fowled and wet. Cleane


for kx125, that kind of problem i kind of remember my friend just like that too. so clean everything inside . so u have to changes the valves and also the lifter then do the piston pin too,.also chick the rod if in good! that's it for now then when u do that tell me what going on!

Dec 29, 2013 | kawasaki KX 125 Motorcycles

Tip

Maytag Washer Squeaking Problem


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

NOTE: The following link lists the recommended tools to complete this repair:

Spring Removal Tool (item #455570)
Brake/Bearing/Seal Removal Tool Kit (item #997909)

http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx

Just go to these fields and select the following:

Brand: Maytag
Appliance Type: Washing Machine
Part Type: Tool

The list of all Maytag tools will appear.

NOTE: To save a few extra dollars, you can remove the 6 10-24 machine bolts, that hold the brake stator housing, one at a time and replace them with 10-24 x 2" machine bolts. Once all the original bolts are removed, back out the 2" machine bolts evenly, keeping the brake stator housing aligned but slowly releasing the pressure from the 200 lb spring.

After replacing the snubber ring, the brake and the brake stator housing, use the 2" long machine screws again to pull the unit together. Once all assembled, replace the 2" bolts with the original 10-24 X 1/2" machine bolts.

I hope this information is helpful.

on Dec 04, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

1996 pontiac sunfire 2.4 motor low compression number 2 cylnder


Very possible
A cylinder leak down test would
be better to pin point, that then compression test
Go to You Tube Video to understand cyl leak down

Jul 22, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Code p0090 and p0002 saab 93


Check n recalibrate the throttle body at the dealer with Tech2, possble electric throttle body failure causing ECM goes into the limp mode.

Jan 28, 2013 | Saab 93 Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

My Rm 250 wont spark need to know the volts from stator to cdi plug. Got brand new cdi, stator , rotor and pick up coil but it still wont spark.


The Voltage From The Stator To The CDI Should Be Around 40 Volts(AC) At Cranking Speed. Be Sure Your Meter Is Set For (AC) Not (DC). The CDI Changes The (AC) Input Voltage To (DC) Output Voltage To The Primary Terminal At The Coil. An Electrical Shock Hazard Exist If Stator Voltage Is Checked With Engine Running. Always Perform This Test At Cranking Speed (R.P.M.) For SAFETY. 120 Volts (AC) Can Be Present With Engine Running.

May 22, 2011 | 2003 Suzuki RM 250

1 Answer

1987 FXLR 80" 11-1 compression Evo Engine. S&S heads, barrels, and carb matched to a '91 clutch assembly and a Spyke starter. Have a continual problem of having the starter jack-shaft "fall" and...


The problem on your starter sounds like the "overrunning clutch" in the starter. The jackshaft cannot "fall" as the outer end of it is supported by the outer primary cover. It's engaging your ring gear, just not turning the engine. If the start spins, this means the jackshaft has been pushed into the engaged position because the starter will not spin until the solenoid plunger is in the full forward position. So, the only thing left is the "starter clutch". With a compression ratio like you have, you should be running compression releases if you wish to keep even a Spyke starter in the bike.

As for the electrical problem, it sounds like you've got a stator shorting out on you. I had one customer with a 90 FXR that was happening to. His bike would run fine for days and weeks but ever so often, it wouldn't start due to a dead battery and he'd just been riding it. We replaced the entire charging system. The only thing that we hadn't replaced prior to that was the stator. Now, if you wish to prove this, you'll have to catch the problem when it's not charging the battery. If you wish, you can purchase a voltmeter at any automotive parts house and install it on your bike. The battery should charge at 14.5 to 14.8 volts. Anything below that, the battery will slowly discharge. If you can, test the stator output. Unplug the connector at the cases. Inspect the connector to make sure the connections are in good shape up inside the plug. You need one those hold downs that keep this plug tight as well. Using a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) put one of the meter leads on each pin in the case, put the meter in AC volts, 50 volt range. Start the engine and you should read about 25 volts or greater. If not, the stator is defective.

Good Luck
Steve.

Jun 12, 2010 | 1993 Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide

1 Answer

1987 Shadow 700 charging problem


yes there is a couple of different ways to test these components,first you will need a voltmeter and the first test is an ohms (resistance) test unplug the stator and place the meter leads on the stator leads 1and 2 then 1and 3 then 3 and 2 should read between .2 and 2.5 ohms then do an insulation breakdown one lead to stator lead the other to ground should read OL or OFL if any reading stator is junk. Then test out put meter to ac-volts meter leads to stator leads start the bike should read 15-100 vac. Then as far as the reg/rec goes set meter to diode mode and place one meter lead to the power output and the other to the stator input side of the connector do this to all three wires and then rev. the meter leads and do again 0.3-0.8 forward bias OFL in rev. bias then place meter lead to ground wire on reg/rec and do the same test if you get readings in both forward and reverse bias the reg/rec is bad replace

Jun 04, 2010 | 1987 Honda VT 1100 C Shadow

1 Answer

Yamaha xt 125r wont start up


hello, check and see if plug is firing a blue color, if not you may need a stator-pickup coil, i have a 2000 warrior, it is firing, orange and white color, stator neede to be replaced, pickup coil was going out, also check ign coil, these have a problem with getting weak after a while. most likely it is your stator pickup coil, no blue fire from plug, no running the motor. my stator pickup coil was going out. no blue fire from plug, i was told by a yamaha mechanic, no blue fire from plug it will not run, has to be blue, not orange or white looking fire.make sure carb is clean and all jets inside are clean, and air passage ways

Feb 22, 2010 | 2005 Yamaha XT 125 R

1 Answer

Air fuel mix too rich, what are my possble


well could be a o2 sensor could be throttle possition sensor, coolant temp sensor, could be a bad injector,map sensor, maf sensor, could also be a vacume leak hope this helps its a starting point anyway

Aug 15, 2009 | 1994 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

I have a 2004 Honda Shadow Sabre not charging&fan not working...


I have a 2002 Shadow VT1100C. I recently had to replace the radiator mounted thermostat switch because it did not come on.
Unfortunately I ran the bike until it overheated before I discovered this. The overheating caused my stator to short out to ground (frame). No stator=no charge voltage=dead batttery quick. So I had to take apart the crankshaft, and replace the stator along with the radiator mounted thermostat switch. You will need a shop manual. You need to know how to measure voltage and resistance with a meter. If you need a stator, buy an aftermarket stator because the OEM versions cost 3 times as much.
Adrien

Mar 23, 2009 | 2002 Honda VT 1100 C Shadow Spirit

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