Question about Motorcycles
Check the solenoid with a volt meter and make sure it puts 12 volts to the starter when button is pressed. If meter shows 12 volts then the stater probably needs starter cable lugs tightened, new brushes or the whole starter. If the meter shows low voltage when button is pressed then check the wiring and lugs between solenoid and battery. And some bikes may have a fuse that feeds the cable to the starter solenoid.
Posted on Nov 24, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Its a bad earth between battery and chassis or starter and chassis
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
Testimonial: "bournetoride: Your suggestion on earth was excellent. Turns out battery could not pass a load test. No prior indication of failure. "
SOURCE: After leaving the last gas
Ok, let's check the charging system. The battery is easy. Take the battery out of the bike and take it to an automotive parts store. Ask them to load test the battery for you. If the battery is over two years old, it could need replacing.
Once you're sure the battery is good and it is FULLY CHARGED, we can test the rest of the system. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the system. With the battery back in the bike, connect the DVOM across the battery. Red meter lead to the positive terminal of the battery, black meter lead to the negative. Put the meter's function selector switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLTS or greater. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5 - 15.0 volts.
Now, to test the stator, follow the wires from your regulator down to where it goes into the engine cases. Disconnect the connector and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts down in there. Set you meter's function selector to AC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch each one of the metal contacts down in the engine side of the connector with a meter probe. It makes not difference since we're measuring AC voltage at this point. The meter should read at least 30 volts.
Now, if the alternator (stator test) does not put out at least thirty volts, the stator is bad and needs to be replaced. If the alternator does check good but not enough voltage at the battery, your regulator may be the culprit. Make sure all connections are clean and tight and that the body of the regulator is grounded good. Recheck the test at the battery. If it still fails, replace the regulator.
Now, I've seen may problems such as your's that are intermittant. In other words, the problem is here on minute and gone the next. I fought that on one bike for over a year until we finally replaced the entire charging system and fixed it. If your bike proves to be doing that, you may wish to consider that option. Fix the thing and be done with it. I wouldn't buy the rotor, just the stator and the regulator.
Posted on Aug 31, 2010
Testimonial: "right on with the test procedure. Battery didn't show it was charging. While the stator test showed 30vac, an ohm test showed it was grounded. Thanks "
SOURCE: Have 93 fxr. Starter turns
Take your battery out and have it load tested. It sounds like you have one or more cells shorting out under a load. A 12 volt battery is made up of six 2 volt cells. The output voltage and current delivery of a battery with shorted cells in it depends on how many cells are shorted and where they are located within the battery. This is the most obvious thing causing the problem. If the starter is drawing the battery down that low, it must be drawing a tremendous amount of current and it would probably be burning the battery cables with that large of a current draw. If you have 300km on a top end job with no problems, I doubt you have a problem with that. A problem in that area would have shown up well before now. Although, a fresh top end will put more strain on the starter and battery due to the increase in compression. Check the battery first.
Posted on Jun 22, 2011
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