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Kawasaki Vulcan 500-26,000, miles.new rotor and stator. Batty It is not quite chargeing enough.it has to be changed every wk to 10 days itis1991kawa.Vulcan 500

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  • 427 Answers

The battery charge voltage should be about 13.5-15.5 volts dc when speed is about 2000-2500 rpm. The rectifier and/or voltage regulator could be bad or the motorcycle could have a wiring issue such as an intermittent connection/short etc.

Posted on Nov 22, 2014

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: stator

Behind the left engine cover. The engine must be almost completely removed to change it out.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 66 Answers

SOURCE: not charging, removed the regulator, has three

(I am the author of the reference thread on TriumphRat that wasposted by another respondent)

Not personally intimate with the Vulcan, but this is a 'conventional' motorcycle 3 phase stator energized by a crank driven magnetic rotor. 
The stator is connected in delta to the R/R. There should be NO measurable resistance from any of the three stator output terminals to engine ground - it should be completely isolated.   If you can measure a low resistance (not clear if your 0.2 ohms is from terminal to terminal or terminal to engine ground) then your stator is fried. 
Regarding the R/R connections - the third wire on the output is one of two functions (unfortunately without benefit of a schematic I cannot definitively conclude for you): either a 'voltage sense' wire, or in some Kawasakis they feed one phase of the stator output back out again for use in the starter cut/latch circuit. It should be reasonably easy to differentiate which it is. 
Good Luck! 

Posted on Aug 13, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 Kawasaki 1500 Vulcan Drifter clutch slips

Well i would say the clutches have sat dry to long. You may change the oil and it solve the problem but more than likely new clutch discs.

Posted on Jan 25, 2010

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oldmanewtoys
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SOURCE: KAWASAKI VULCAN 1500 CHARGING PROBLEM

If you are getting 13volt output and it revs and gets 14.5volts it would appear to be charging. As you would get a drop in voltage if it were not. Stator is there for working. Check your voltage relay as it may be sticking which would cause it to run on system and not be sending charge to battery. Poor ground would also keep battery from being properly charged

Posted on Mar 30, 2010

mrrosco08
  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: how do you take the stator cover off of a 1997

not sure of this exact model but there will be a cover on the opposite side of your clutch, i do believe that this stator is bolted right into the stator but if its not it should be self explanitory once you get the cover off

Posted on Jun 10, 2010

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I have a 1985 Kawasaki vulcan I put a new stator in rode a couple days now battery wont charge. Try to start and nothing barely a click from starter


Buy a "multimeter" (about $10) and switch it to DC volts.
Fully charge the battery.
Hook leads to the battery (red to positive, black to negative).
Start engine, and check meter.
You should be pulling about 13-14 volts DC.
If not, unplug output wires on the voltage regulator and hook the leads to it.
Start engine, and again, at idle you should be getting about 13-14 volts DC.
If not, unplug alternator (stator and rotor) and hook meter leads to wires, AND SWITCH TO AC VOLTS on the meter.
Start bike, and at idle you should be pulling 15-20 volts or more, with it rising (sometimes drastically) when you rev the engine.
This will tell you if the alternator's bad, or the regulator.
Also, you said you changed the stator, but sometimes the rotor becomes de-magnitized, especially if you've dropped it.

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Hi, Barrigar6 and the usual suspects are:
1. Excessive electrical "HEAT" aka "AMPERAGE" melts the varnish insulation causing the coils to short out.
2. Overheating due to a faulty voltage regulator.
3. Voltage regulator not properly grounded.
4. Loose rotor magnets or stator bolts.
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For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Mrmiller6514 and the usual suspects are:
1. Excessive electrical "HEAT" aka "AMPERAGE" melts the varnish insulation causing the coils to short out.
2. Overheating due to a faulty voltage regulator.
3. Voltage regulator not properly grounded.
4. Loose rotor magnets or stator bolts.
5. Faulty starter relay.
6. Old battery dead cell loose or corroded cables.
7. Faulty wiring in the charging circuit.
8. Excessive wattage in a batteryless system.
9. Aftermarket parts are usually substandard.
10. Headlight not designed for a motorcycle system.
Some bikes have charging systems that get the job done but just barely and will have the most failures, you can upgrade the system with quality parts and a higher output. Relocating the voltage regulator to a spot more conducive to airflow will help immensely. Regular wiring system checks for corrosion chaffed wires, rerouting harnesses that run too close to heat sources ie. cylinders-exhaust etc. is great preventive maintenance to avoid those breakdowns in the middle of nowhere at 2 in the morning.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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