Question about Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic Motorcycles
Yes you can, no problem. The battery will (theorically) recharge a little faster but the main advantage would be if you use more electricity with gismos like high intensity bulbs or heating vest. However you should not use a charger more power than 20% higher than the original as then your abttery could overheat or even overcharge.
Hope this help !
Posted on Nov 19, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
halogen headlight taillight/brake light turn signals odo/speedo and horn. Here are the problems… Above about 6000 RPM the ignition will intermittently cut out. It doesn’t do it all the time. The higher the RPM the more it tends to cut out. Reducing RPM brings the lights back to bright. Above about 6000 RPM the lights start to dim intermittently. The higher the RPM the dimmer they get to where the lights almost go out. The engine runs fine if the RPM is reduced. The tachometer records some very high RPMS when the system starts to act up. Max RPM recorded is 19999 which is totally unreasonable. I am looking for some assistance in troubleshooting my electrical system and how to isolate the problem(s).,Start by disconnecting the cables from the generator coils and start up your engine. Problem still there? Do this to find out if your problems stems from the power side or the ignition side. If bike now runs fine, I'd look at the voltage regulator. Have you checked that all your connectors are ok? A grounding problem with a somewhat loose connector would be vibration sensitive, hence the problems at higher rpm. Is your stator plate securely fastened? Is your engine grounded to chassis? There might be a loose fastening in one of you engine mounts. Reply With Quote,,,
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
Are you sure your gauge is not lying to you? Ride the bike until you see that your charging voltage has dropped. Then check the voltage directly across the battery with a meter. If it is indeed below the 14 volt mark, you are either drawing too much current or your alternator is not putting out enough.
To check the alternator, unplug the regulator where it plugs into the engine case. Down inside the plug in the case, you'll see either two sockets or two pins. Using a digital volt ohm meter (DVOM) put one lead to pin or socket and the other lead to the other pin or socket. Put the meter in the 50 volt AC range. The voltage coming out of the alternator is AC voltage, not DC. It is converted to DC by the regulator. Start the engine an bring the engine up to a high idle. You should read 32-40 volts AC. If so, you stator is good and working as it should.
Now, you're left with either something drawing too much current or a bad regulator. The book tells you how to check the regulator but you must use a specific type of meter or you'll get erronous readings. If you have added a lot of extra lights to the bike, this could be overworking the alternator. Check the ground on the regulator to the frame. It must be grounded well.
Posted on Apr 06, 2010
HD = Hundred Dollars, voltage regulator.
Stator replacement = big dollars because labor intensive. The part is around $100, maybe more by now
Posted on May 17, 2010
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