Question about 1989 Yamaha YX 600 Radian
It may have a crankcase breather hose/port around the back end of the engine which allow the lower engine to breath. If the engine has been over filled with oil/the breather hose lose/broke, or has excessive blowby (bad rings), the engine will push oil out. Most 4 stroke motorcycles are not designed to stay with the front end in the air for long periods of time or the engine will run short of lubrication and eventually fail. If you want to keep the front wheel up the engine will have to be modified so that it can lubricate while the front wheel is up otherwise it will cause damage!
Posted on Nov 22, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Tires for yamaha vstar 650
If the particular tires are matched as compatible to your bike, they'll work, even is mismatched as a pair. There are benefits to having a matched pair, such as more even treadwear, and smoother reaction when following road grooves. There are always differences in 'feel' when you switch tires--each tire (even if you are replacing with the same make/model), as a new tire has more tread than the old one being replaced (unless you're replacing due to punctures or other defects).
Will it be a problem? It won't be the absolute BEST possible ride, but really not a problem. As always, with a new fresh tire, be sure to take it easy for the first 100 miles, to get used to the feel, and to wear off the factory shine. You're comfort and familiarity is really the potential problem with a new tire--expect that the ride will be different, the handling, etc. For each major road condition type, be sure to test the behavior. Curves that are banked vs. flat, road surfaces (concrete vs. blacktop), rubberized roads vs. traditional, stopping/breaking, swerving, etc. As you face each condition with the new tire, keep caution at your side.
Tire composition, and analysis is a potetentially very scientific. One could argue for a lifetime, and on paper, these things can be compared constantly, but it all comes down to first hand experience in use. Personally, I prefer to used matched sets when buying new ones, but at the same time, I like to explore the advances and cost savings from a variety of manufacturers. New compositions and designs from the 'off brand' mfgs are getting REALLY good nowadays. I have yet to be really disappointed when trying some of the new brands for my vintage honda. I do try to stay away from the absolute cheapest tires, and always do match tire type (radial vs. bias), and especially, load range and speed ratings. Make sure the new tire matches these three requirements and you'll likely really like the performances vs. an old worn tire.
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
I suspect poor fuel delivery or starvation. At those rpms your bike requires a lot of fuel.Replace any and all fuel filters, check fuel lines for any kinks. Drain tank (petcock on pri ) then remove and clean petcock , replace. Run a bottle of techroline thru your next couple tanks of gas....Good Luck to you my friend...Tim
Posted on May 10, 2009
Sounds to me like it could be a few things... pretty interesting that it runs and shuts down...sits for a little while then fires back up. Could be something as simple as a bad ground.. maybe it needs cleaned.. if the ground is making very little contact.. the bike would run bad, and because its direct current it has to flow. The metal in the motor frame etc will hold so much DC current.. but *** soon as it load up the bike would stop sparking. Let it sit for a while, DC trickles into the battery through the slight contact, bike fires back up. OR could be bad venting of your fuel tank, or a partial clog at the pet ****.. the first is pretty easy to check, open your fuel cap and start the bike..if it does the same thing then its not a vent problem. One thing that does happen on the Radian, is the reserve fuel screen inside the tank comes loose, and then everything inside the that has built up over the years either partially clogs the pet ****, or the hose, or both. Take the tank off, pull the pet **** off..if it still has two intact tubes with good screens..you probably don't have any junk in your line..but I would pull the line off and blow through it any way... it could be some type of blockage, when the bike sets the fuel seep through, but when it runs it eventually creates a vaccuum that stops the fuel flow. Those are my two first thoughts... good luck!!
Posted on Jun 07, 2009
YZF600R is a carbureted model. OIL: The oil sight glass is a round window, low on the right side. Very hard to try to see when astride the bike, even if you use a mirror on an extension rod. Have a friend hold the bike level,perhaps, while you check. Oil should be sighted after the bike has been sitting for a time after riding. I suggest using a good 10W-40 regular motorcycle oil (Least expensive around here in Boston is to buy Kawasaki by the gallon at Riverside) I found the pesky 1st-to-2nd shift to be more direct with this oil than with synthetic. I had plenty of opportunity to compare the two types. GAS: No reserve, but as noted, there is a low fuel light, in the row of lights that includes the neutral light and the high beam indicator. You ought to be getting over 50 m.p.g., so you can estimate your 'range' from that. I usually fill up again around the 180 mile period. I think I've seen the low fuel light once in 6 years of ownership. OH: I suggest you treat the gas, on a regular basis, with 'marine' Stabil, not the regular stuff. I have had a 'gummy' Yamaha Virago 250 to care for, that I thought would never clear its fuel problems. Last winter ('08-'09) stored it with the marine Stabil in the tank and run for a while to get it into the carbs also. Within a few minutes of running it this spring-actually a couple weeks ago- it smoothed out and has run fine since. I believe this HAS to be as a result of the treatment of the fuel (run through the carbs before the winter storage) with this special Stabil. It was recommended by Carlo at Riverside- I'll have to remember to thank him for the advice. N.B. I always change the fuel (siphon it out, put that Stabil'ed but 'old' stuff into my car tank, refill the bikes with fresh 93 octane) each Spring.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
hi buddy by the oil plug will be a number for example 70c /700cm2 this will mean 700ml or you can do it by looking at the oil sight glass should come 3/4 full but make sure you add more as the oil filter will be empty so that needs filling also remember before you drain the oil run the bike for 5 mins so the oil becomes thinner and all drains also dab some oil on the new oil filter seal buddy any more info get back to me
Posted on Sep 15, 2009
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