Question about 2000 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic

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Power to coil drops after turning switch on

Relays ok

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Regulator/rectifier faulty

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The high beams on my Honda 02 Odyssey ( Canada series ) only works on occasions. The bulbs and contacts to the lights are ok, the two relays under the hood are working,fuses look good in all fuse boxes....

Could be a contact, in the chain, not 100% in working order. It could lose contact by temperature, moisture or any other natural cause. Even contacts in a relay can be faulty and you should not rule out a relay what is clicking. Only measuring the resistance in the chain or the drop of voltage over a contact can bring you to the real cause.

Jan 31, 2015 | 2002 Honda Odyssey

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I have a 1974 350 se merc, fuel pump has no power to it, at the fusebox there are 4 relays, 3 are 5 pin relays and 1 is a 4 pin with the number 0 332 008 001, 1 wire 86 goes to the fuse-30 goes somewh

# 30 is always direct power from the battery and or ignition switch from the battery to the relay to power the part. #87 is to the part it is sending power to. #85 and #86 can be swapped., One is grounded. The other is power from the ignition switch or any switch. #30 and #87 are the switch in the relay. # 85 and #86 are the coil in the relay. The coil pulls the switch closed to power the part.

Jan 09, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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All of my relays click when power is turned on, but I have no spark or fuel

you attempted to fool the PCM. ever check fuse FIRST>?
all other non engine electrics all working, and dash warning lamps all on key on????????
The ASD, fuel and starter relays, do what? you left that out.
ok battery is good. starter is good. the relay works
but who controls the relay, well that is a chain of things
ok see here

see wiring
see starter page.
the relay is not tested by jumpering 30 to 87
fuse 2 must be good
the relay good.
then (a voltmeter makes this childs play)
the relay coil is grounded on one side.
then the hot side goes to the clutch switch(m.t) or as the case may be, the A/T PRNDL switch.
my wild guess is car is A/T and if yes
page 8w-21-3 covers this
the key switch sends 12v to starter relay coil
and the PRNDL ground the starter relay coil at d13
ever wiggle the PRNDL by trying park or neutral to crank
the N contacts are virgin still and may allow cranking
if you 12vdc across the coil cranking the relay is BAD.
D11 to D13 (any voltmeter works)

Aug 02, 2014 | 1997 Jeep Wrangler

2 Answers

When the temperature is in the mid to low 30's, 92 Honda Civic will not turn over. No griinding or anything, not even a click. I've been told the battery, starter and carburator are ok. Help! Taxi's are...

Let's see if I can explain it. Pretty simple start circuit, but starting issues are very common to Hondas and Toyotas of the '80's and early'90's. Lots of guys used to rewire their start circuits with new wiring and relays from ignition switch to the starter solenoid just to stop those no starts.
From the ignition switch is the black/white start wire, it is hot only in start, goes direct to the "starter cut relay"- a 4 pole starter relay, the black/ white wire (black with a white stripe) is both the power feed and the coil power to the relay. Before the wire enters the relay it is spliced. one wire goes to power feed at relay, other wire goes to coil side of relay. Here's where the clutch switch comes in: the clutch switch acts as the ground for the relay's coil side. Okay, you turn key to start, power goes to the relay on both the power side and the coil side. When clutch is depressed, it grounds the coil side of relay, this energizes the relay, so power goes out of relay on the power side, as a black/red wire...and goes direct to the starter solenoid. Somewhere before it reaches the solenoid, it turns back into a black/white wire. But nothing else is in a wiring diagram for your start circuit. Buy a can of CRC electronic cleaner. Spray all connectors in the start circuit. Pull off the solenoid wire at starter-that connector. Also the starter relay , pull it out and clean the relay terminals where it plugs in. Get all clean connections in the circuit. If no help, swap in a different relay. If still no help, get a voltmeter (or a test light), when the starter doesn't want to work, check for power at the starter solenoid with key held in start, and clutch depressed. If power there, the solenoid is the problem. If no power, work back to the relay. Pull relay out. With key held in start, two terminals for the relay should have power-the coil plus side, and the power feed from the ignition switch. If both have power, may be the clutch switch not grounding the relays coil side. If no power to relay, check the start wire out of the ignition switch.
Need a wiring diagram? This site is awesome-free wir. diagrams and TSB's for every make and model:

Dec 26, 2013 | 1992 Honda Civic

1 Answer

All power windows don't work. fuses ok. replaced master power window switch and still doesnt work. could it be a bad relay somewhere? thanks!

Assuming you have checked all fuses within your car. Remembering not just the fuse box under the hood, but also the fuses that are underneath the dash / steering wheel on most cars.

Is this a common fault? ie did the stereo and the power windows both stop working at exactly the same time. For example fix one and the other will be fixed as well.

Does the car start? if so you have your 12 volt ignition control circuit working. This circuit creates a pilot circuit ie once energised it is used to drive power to the coils of various relays to allow a switch to be automatically moved and allow power though to accessories such as stereo, windows etc. This all happens in the blink of an eye when you turn your car key.

Make sure the ignition is off and check the most simple things including fuses under hood and under steering wheel, check all wiring looms, make sure all relays are securely in their positions. Check for moisture on leads and relays, check all connectors and also check for corrosion. Look for any obvious damage to wiring.

What we need to establish- is power reaching the motors for your windows ? we can use a test light or multimeter set to Volts DC. If using a test light, make sure the light works first, same if using multimeter, put it across the battery terminals the point of the tester goes onto the active terminal of the battery and the lose wire goes to somewhere metal on the car for negative earthed cars, (most cars are negatively earthed.) Something like a screw or bolt that connects the cars panels to the frame for example should be fine. Experiment with best point to connect your lose wire so you know you are using the tester correctly.

Is there a fuse for windows ? if so make sure ignition is turned off, remove fuse, turn ignition key to on/run to whatever the last point is before your starter motor turns over. Now check for power within the fuse holder to see if power is actually getting to the fuse. If not then work your way back it is probably a wire loom connector or relay. If power is there then turn of ignition again. Put fuse back in and then go to next step.

Remove the cover for you window switches, turn ignition key to run just before starter motor turns don't start the car and now have a tinker with the tester or multimeter to see if power is actually making it to the switches. Use the switch, is power getting to one side when not activated, then when activated is power getting through to the other side of switch. If yes then work your way forward on the wires to the next point, probably the motor. Is power getting to the input of the motor ? if yes then check connections of wire to motor.

If No power getting to window switches then work your way back.

Failing the above working. Next thing to do is check relays - first identify which one controls the windows and accessories etc. Very handy to have a wiring diagram. Without a diagram Not always easy to identify where or which relay to check I know, often with someone turning the ignition key and listen to the relays you will hear the relays click. Again relays are under the hood and often on some cars under the dash / steering column area. Make sure you are clear of any moving parts under the hood when you check this, your friend wife/partner will inevitably turn the key too far and scare the **** out of you when they turn the engine over and we all know engines can bite, those fans have friggen big teeth. ( speaking from near miss experience here !) Avoid turning the engine over - just turn the key to accessories on and off to hear the clicking of relays. Remember some cars electric windows need the key turned to on/run which is the last point before the start motor turns over.

If you can't identify the relays clicking over or not, you can remove them but only do so with the ignition off. You can make up some small wires to attach temporarily to just the coil of the relay .You can use these temporay wires to connect the coil direct from the battery to see if the coil is energising, if the coil does energised use a multimetre in resistance mode or in continuity test mode to see if the contacts /switches of the relay are working properly. If the relay is working fine Make sure you put the relay back in its correct holder.

Once you have identified if the relay is clicking on properly or not follow this method.
A lot of relays have diagrams of where the coil lead power connector is and also where the NO ( normally open) NC Normally closed connections are. You may use a multimetre, or test light to check if power is reaching the input side of the relay if no power work your way back along the circuit. You will need to have the ignition turned to on/run to the last point before the starter motor turns over do not turn the starter.

You may also be lucky whereby a faulty relay can be found by there being two or more identicle relays that are used for different things through your car. Make sure you label them somehow maybe with masking tape and writing on them so you know where each one goes back into if you take them out. Often I have taken one known working relay out from a different part of the car and swapped it with another one the same to see if the known working circuit has stopped working. This can get confusing though because it is easy to chase your tail and coinfuse the hell out of yourself, especially if you are not a technician.

My first instructor taught me this for fault finding . KISS meaning Keep it simple silly ! dont look too deep into things at the start otherwise you shall confuse yourself.

Jun 03, 2011 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

SV10 - V6 - Camry no power is getting to my fuel pump the fuse is ok and fuel pump works i can not find a fuel cut or fuel relay. A postion exists however its not in use. All I did was jack it up rotate...

SWITCHES & RELAYS Switches are used in electrical circuits to control the passage of current. The most common use is to open and close circuits between the battery and the various electric devices in the system. Switches are rated according to the amount of amperage they can handle. If a sufficient amperage rated switch is not used in a circuit, the switch could overload and cause damage. Fig. 1: The underhood fuse and relay panel usually contains fuses, relays, flashers and fusible links tcca6p02.jpg
Some electrical components which require a large amount of current to operate use a special switch called a relay. Since these circuits carry a large amount of current, the thickness of the wire in the circuit is also greater. If this large wire were connected from the load to the control switch, the switch would have to carry the high amperage load and the fairing or dash would be twice as large to accommodate the increased size of the wiring harness. To prevent these problems, a relay is used. Relays are composed of a coil and a set of contacts. When the coil has a current passed though it, a magnetic field is formed and this field causes the contacts to move together, completing the circuit. Most relays are normally open, preventing current from passing through the circuit, but they can take any electrical form depending on the job they are intended to do. Relays can be considered "remote control switches." They allow a smaller current to operate devices that require higher amperages. When a small current operates the coil, a larger current is allowed to pass by the contacts. Some common circuits which may use relays are the horn, headlights, starter, electric fuel pump and other high draw circuits. Fig. 2: Relays are composed of a coil and a switch. These two components are linked together so that when one operates, the other operates at the same time. The large wires in the circuit are connected from the battery to one side of the relay switch (B+) and from the opposite side of the relay switch to the load (component). Smaller wires are connected from the relay coil to the control switch for the circuit and from the opposite side of the relay coil to ground tcca6g02.gif
prev.gif next.gif --- I am not aware of an inertia switch on Toyota vehicles. I don't think it's like a ford. Look for a fusible link, fuse, or relay problem.

Jul 26, 2010 | 1996 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

No power to the coil ? any ideas

ignition switch sends power to coil through several relays on my 1988 ramcharger the relays on the drivers fender send power to coil, distributor , and fuel pump use a test light with ignition key on to find which is which good luck

Feb 19, 2010 | 1990 Dodge Ramcharger

1 Answer

I have a 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE, 3.3 ltr Engine, All Systems turn on when key is turned on, but engine won't turn over, Check all relays and are good, new that is proven good, Brown wire to staer...

You need a wiring diagram before you start and get out your meter. How did you check out the relays? Remove them,power up the coils and read OHM's across all contacts or use the buzzer on the meter? You missed one The fact the solenoid is good doesn't mean the contacts inside aren't burnt and not applying current to the starter motor. We over look the easy stuff most of the time. Did you do a voltage drop test on the starter while trying to crank? A new solenoid may be all you need.

Feb 06, 2010 | 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager

2 Answers

No power to coil

check the crank sensor in the back at the transmission

Sep 10, 2009 | 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck 2WD

1 Answer

Is there a inline fuse from the ignition switch to the ignition coil?

no sir
not from the switch to the coil.
the coil does not get power from the switch.
the switch turns relays on that powers the coils.
but there is an ignition fuse.
the ignition switch turns on power relays from the battery that powers the ignition system.
the ignition system fuse is in the fuse box.

hope this helps
thank you

Jul 29, 2009 | 1995 Ford Explorer

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