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What is the specifications for dampener screw on the for the fork tube?

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The damper is for adjustment to your weight and riding style. It's to Stiffen or Soften shocks. Most adjusters have a very slight click as you turn them. Start at mid adjustment and go from there. Make small adjustments as you test it. Good lick. Hope this helps.

Posted on Nov 06, 2014

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When determining oil capacity and air gap in forks is there a "universal" starting point. I tend to rebuild older bikes and often there is no or little info available.

Hey Anon.. Yes, there is a positive/accurate way to tell how much oil is required,...on older bikes with "standard" forks all the dampening controls are on a rod secured to the bottom of the fork leg. If you remove the filler cap (top), with NO oil in the fork, you can see the top of the rod (its in the center of the fork tube towards the bottom). When refilling, the oil level must be enough, with fork fully extended, to just cover the top of the dampening rod...add about 1oz of oil at a time ..look down with a flashlight.. until the rod is covered!1 This is a slow, but accurate, way to fill older forks!!

Jun 15, 2017 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

How to replace fork seals 2007 fatboy

To replace the front fork oil first support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended. Remember that the FLSTC and FLSTF models have a preloaded fork spring and that the fork tube plug is under spring pressure.Then you remove the fork tube caps. And then you drain the fork oil. ON FXSTD models, your remove the drain screws and washers from each fork and drain the fork oil this way. ON ALL MODELS EXCEPT the FXSTD, remove and discard the drain screws and washers from each fork and drain the fork oil and then you install new drain screws and washers. ON FXSTD models, apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 243 (blue) to the drain screws and tighten them to 12-18 inlbs (1.4-2.0 Nm). ON ALL MODELS EXCEPT FXSTD, tighten the drain screws to 52-78 in-lbs (5.9-8.9 Nm).THEN fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80).Either by installing oz or cc's of fluid if the forks were left in the frame or by measuring the amount of oil in the tubes in inches or mm if the forks were removed from the frame and disassembled. In the latter case the oil level is measured from the top of the fork tube with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed.

MODELs FLSTC, FLSTN use 13.4 OZ 395 cc4.41 inches 112.0 mm
MODEL FLSTF uses 13.4 OZ 397 cc5.04 inches128.0 mm
MODELs FXST, FXSTB, FXSTC use 12.5 OZ370 cc 6.69 inches170.0 mm
MODEL FXSTD uses 11.6 OZ343 cc 7.48 inches190.0 mm

FINALLY tighten the fork tube caps to 40-60 ft-lbs (54.2-81.3 Nm).

Jul 10, 2014 | 1993 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

1 Answer

2003 HD sportster - forks don't leak, bottoms out when front brakes applied

You may not have enough oil in the front forks or you may been a heavier viscosity of oil. I'm sorry but I don't have the oil capacity for your "Low Sportster". All I have is for "Hugger" models. They take 10.7oz. "wet" and 12.1 "dry". The difference between "wet" and "dry" is that if you simply drain and refill the front forks, it's call a "wet" oil change. If you disassemble and clean the forks of all oil inside, it's called a "dry" oil change. Contact the service department of your local shop and ask them how much oil goes in the front fork. To change the oil, there is usually a small screw in the trailing side of the lower fork slider down near the axle. Take these out and the oil will drain to a certain degree. Hold the brake while working the forks up and down with your weight to get all the oil that draining will get out of them. If you want all the oil out, you'll have to disassemble the fork tube. I would not do this if the seals are not leaking. Replace the screws in the sliders and then remove the top cap from one tube at the time and refill the tube with the specified amount of oil. Sometimes, the top caps can be difficult to get back in due to the pressure of the large spring in the front fork tubes. You may need a tool to compress the sping. I'm not sure on the "Low" model. I've always managed to the top caps back in without any special tool but I've never done a "Low" model bike. Harley uses what they call their "Type E" fork oil. I do not know what the viscosity of this oil is so I always use PJ-1 30 weight fork oil for most applications. Use only fork oil as any other oil may have a tendency to foam thereby negating any dampening action of the forks. If this doesn't solve your problem, you may want to check into changing the springs in the front forks. Progressive Suspension and others make kits for this.

Good Luck

Sep 13, 2011 | 2006 Harley Davidson XL 1200 L Sporster...

1 Answer

How do i change fork oil an will it make them stiffer an is they a number where i can talk to ya

To change the fork oil, look down on the lower part of each fork leg just above the axle on the backside of each leg and you'll find an Allen plug or small screw. Take this screw out, hold the front brake and push down on the front forks. The fork oil will come out of the tube. Do both sides at the same time. Once you get the oil out of them, reinstall the drain plug. Then, take the large hex cap on ONE TUBE AT THE TIME and pour the correct amount of the correct fork oil into each tube. There is a specific amount of oil that must be poured into each leg. Since you simply drained your forks instead of disassembling them, you should use what is known as the "Wet" quantity of oil. I'm pretty sure your bike takes 9.0 ounces of oil in each leg. Call your local dealer and they'll tell you how much oil to put in. Your bike came from the factory with "Type E" oil in the forks. The viscosity of the oil determines the dampening effect of the forks. Heavier oil will stiffen the front forks, a lighter viscosity of oil will make the front end softer. You can check the Internet for fork oils and they should give you a comparison of what weight oil is equivalent to "Type E" oil. I think PJ 1's 30 weight oil is the same as type E Harley oil. Use only "fork oil" in your front forks as it has special "anti-foaming" agents in it. If the oil foams up, you'll lose the dampening effect in your forks.

Good Luck

Apr 20, 2011 | 2004 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

1 Answer

How do you remove the forks on a 2001 fxd superglide

Hopefully you will glean all you need to know from this but if you want or need more information or more FXD specific information PLEASE H

Hopefully the information below will be okay BUT if you need any more or any more specific information please post a comment and describe what you want/need.

REPLACING FORK OIL Replace front fork oil at every 20,000 mile (32,000 km) service interval and/or prior to storage.


Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, on FXDL models, remove the center plug from each fork cap, on all other models, remove the fork tube caps, remove the drain screws from the bottom of each fork and drain the fork oil, replace the drain screws and washers and tighten the screws

to 13-17 in-lbs (1.5-2.0 Nm) THEN see Table 1-6. and fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80) as set out in the Table. THEN if apart assemble the forks as follows:

a. FXD, FXDXT, FXDWG models: install both fork tube caps and tighten them to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm).

b. FXDL models: install center plugs and tighten until secure.

Fork oil amounts can be measured two ways: use the oz./cc measurement if fork is left in frame; use the in./mm measurement if the fork is disassembled in which case the oil level is measured from the top of the fork tube with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed.

Table 1-6. Type E Fork Oil Amounts for 2001 DYNA


FXDXT 11.5 341 6.10 154.9

FXDWG 12.0 356 7.28 182.9

FXD 10.6 314 6.69 169.9


HD-41177 Fork tube holder

HD-41549A Fork spring compression tool

HD-41551 Spring plate tool

HD-36583 Fork seal installer

HD-59000A Pro-level oil gauge



Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove both front brake calipers and the front wheel, remove the front fender, remove the front fairing, remove the headlamp bracket and attach the headlamp to the frame using a rubber bungee strap, loosen the upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts and pull the fork sides from the brackets.


Remove the stopper ring, remove the spring preload adjuster but DO NOT unthread the rebound adjuster from the damper rod because incorrect assembly could result in reduced adjustment range. THEN unthread the fork cap from the fork tube and allow the fork leg to drop, exposing the spring, THEN get a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL (Part No. HD-41549A) on the spring collar, turn the screws in to engage the holes in collar, compress the spring until the SPRING PLATE TOOL (Part No. HD-

41551) can be positioned between the spacer and the spring collar, THEN hold the fork bolt and compression adjuster, remove the fork bolt from the compression adjuster, remove the spring adjuster plate from the fork bolt, remove spacer, spring collar and spring, pour out the fork oil by pumping the fork leg and rod 8-10 times or until rod the moves freely. THEN position fork slider in vise using a FORK TUBE HOLDER such as (Part No. HD-41177) to avoid damage. THEN remove the socket head bolt, remove the damper from the fork tube, remove the cover from the slider, remove seal and stopper ring, pull the fork tube out of the slider, remove the oil seal, spacer and guide bushing from the fork tube.


Measure the fork spring free length and replace the spring if it is shorter than 17.00 in. (431.8 mm), check the fork tube and the slider for score marks, scratches or abnormal wear, check the slide and guide bushings for excessive wear or scratches, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure runout which should not exceed 0.008 in. (0.2 mm).


Coat the oil seal with TYPE E FORK OIL, before installing the slide bushing and guide bushing, lubricate them with fork oil, THEN install the guide bushing and the spacer seal noting that the guide bushing opening must be oriented to the side and NOT to the front or rear, THEN slip the slider into the fork tube, place the slide bushing over the fork tube until it rests on the slider, drive the guide bushing with the spacer seal into the slider, lubricate a new oil seal with TYPE E FORK Oil, drive the oil seal into the slider using FORK SEAL INSTALLER (Part No. HD-36583). install the stopper ring and dust seal, (if the rebound adjuster was removed from the damper rod bottom the lock nut on the threaded portion of damper rod, holding a thumb on the detent spring and ball, back out (turn counterclockwise) the rebound adjuster to the last "click." and then turn down (clockwise) 17 "clicks", thread the rebound adjuster onto the damper rod until the adjuster stops at maximum thread engagement (but do not force it), thread the locknut onto the damper rod up until it contacts the base of the rebound adjuster and tighten it in place), THEN holding the slider in a vise while being careful not to damage it. install the damper tube into the fork tube and tighten the socket screw and washer to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN pour half the TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube, slowly pump the damper rod 10 or more times, position the damper rod in the fully bottomed position and pour the remaining amount of TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube. THEN using a PRO-LEVEL OIL GAUGE (Part No. HD-59000A) or similar adjust the oil level to 5.04 in. (128 mm). THEN carefully clean and install the spring, the spring collar, and the spacers with the sharp edge created when they were stamped out when manufactured, facing the collar. THEN using a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL such as (Part No. HD-41549A) push spring collar down and place a SPRING PLATE such as (Part No. HD-41551) between the spacer and the spring collar, install the fork cap and tighten it against the rebound adjuster to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN tighten the fork cap onto the fork tube to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm), install the spring adjuster plate, replace the O-rings on the spring preload adjuster and lubricate them with fork oil. THEN install the spring preload adjuster and the stopper ring and carefully drive the slider cover into the slider.


Insert both fork side assemblies up through the fork stem and bracket and upper bracket and tighten the fork stem bracket pinch bolt(s) to 30-35 ft-lbs (40.7-47.5 Nm). Then re-install the headlamp bracket, install the front fender, install the front wheel and the brake caliper When the motorcycle is again ready for the road adjust the headlamp and road test the motorcycle.

Oct 01, 2010 | 2001 Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide

1 Answer

Need to change out fork seals...any advice on how to approach this or tricks to look out for?

Your triple clamps are the best vice for your fork tubes. Put your bike on the center stand and lift the front wheel off the ground with a jack. Take off your front wheel and loosen the socket caps in the bottom of the tubes. ( you may want to remove the front fender to work on tubes individually) On some models you have to put a towel on the tank, unbolt the handle bars, and move the bars enough to get them out of the way. Unbolt air crossover tube if equipped. Loosen fork top caps and remove. Place a pan under the forks and remove the socket screws. This will dump the oil and allow you to remove the fork lowers. You may need a seal pry bar to remove seals. Installation is reverse order . Add oil after snugging up socket screws ( tighten after top caps are on). Do not to over fill fork tubes with oil it will damage the fork sliders while you ride. The dealer can tell you the correct amount for your model. Honda dealers have pocket size specification books they get quick check the information.

Aug 24, 2010 | 1986 Honda VT 500 C Shadow

1 Answer

What are the torque specifications for fork caps on a 2000 Harley Road King?

Not sure which "fork caps" you're talking about. In mechanics, so many people call different things by different names it's sometimes difficult to figure out what they are talking about.

Anyway, if you're talking about the large fork caps that at the upper triple tree, there is not specific torque, just snug. I wouldn't overtighten them due to there very thin profile and rounded corners on some.

If you're talking about the cap that screws directly into the upper fork tube, there again, no specific torque, just snug. If you tighten either of these caps too tightly, you could encounter problems with removal in the future.

If you are talking about the fork cap at the axle, the nuts torque to 12-15 foot pounds.

Jan 31, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHRCI Road King...

1 Answer

How to fork seals

First of all you'll need to get the bike up and secured. I dont have a bike jack, but after putting it up on the center stand and jacking it up under the pipes, I was able to put my two carstands under the crash bar to secure it.

1) Remove the front wheel, calipers, speedo cable, and fender.

If you want, drain the oil using the drain plug, but I just let mine pour out the top, and you wont have to worry about stripping the thread or damaging the seal.

2) You'll need to remove the caps from the top of the tube to expose the cap bolts. Loosen the cap bolts before you remove the tubes from the bike (I used a 10mm bolt and two jam nuts on the other end so that the head of the bolt fits into the hex, then you can use a ratchet on the jam nuts to loosen).

3) Loosen the pinch bolts (upper and lower). Make sure you hold onto the fork when loosening the final bolt so it doesnt hit the floor. Put your homemade hex tool back into the cap bolt and with the tube upside down and your foot on a ratchet to hold it, start turning the tube to remove the cap bolt. BE CAREFUL! The spring is behind the cap bolt, so you have to put downward pressure on the tube as you turn so that it doesnt go flying up when it's free. I put my fork in a small tub then the ratchet that I stood on, so when it came free, the nasty oil stays captured in the pan. It's probably easier to do this still on the bike, but I was a bit afraid of the spring pressure, which really turned out to not be that bad.

4) Remove the dust seal by tapping with a screwdriver very lightly. Use a screwdriver to remove the circlip from the tube.

5) Place the spring, spacer, and cap bolt to the side for cleaning. Now you'll have to get the dampener out. You can use a 13/16 spark plug socket that has the hex on one end. I took an old spark plug and put in it, then I had one of those "no foul" spark plug extenders to screw onto the plug so that I had a hex on that end too. Put a layer of elect tape on it to hold it all together and prevent scratching the tube. With a couple of long extensions you can get it down the tube and hold the dampener. Then you can unscrew the retainer bolt (8mm hex) at the bottom of the tube).

Backup method (if you cant get it to hold, take a cheap broomstick handle about 7/8" diameter and saw it off about 30" long and hammer the rounded end into the dampener and that will allow you to hold the stick with a vice and unscrew the bolt (I started off with this method and it did work! But once you get it out and can see it, you can improvise your own tool)

6) You can now remove the dampener, inner tube, seals, and spring from the outer tube. Wash all the parts in a cleaning solution. Use a scotchbrite pad to thoroughly polish the seal surfaces. Check all parts before re-assembly. Be sure to get ALL the dirt and grime from deep down in the bottom of the lower tube.

7) Re-assembly. Make sure you put the little aluminum taper spindle into the end of the inner tube before inserting back into the outer tube. Best to do upside down and slide the outer tube downward so it doesnt fall out (the big end of the spindle faces down!)

icon_cool.gif Once the tubes have completely came together, the spindle is trapped, and you can now turn rightside up. Put the washer on, then grease the inner tube and slide the new oil seal down. The smooth side goes up! Slide on another washer, then you can seat this with about a 30" piece of 1 1/2" PVC pipe that is cut squarely on one end. Tap gently with a rubber mallet till the washer is below the circlip groove. Install new circlip.

9) Install new dust seal. Use a 2" piece of PVC pipe this time to drive the dust seal down.

10) Place dampener and spring inside tube. Use your improvised tool to place the dampener back all the way down to the bottom of the tube. You'll need to clean and loc-tite the retaining bolt to screw in from the bottom. If the screw doesn't reach the threads, you put something together wrong. Stand on the allen wrench on the floor and torque the dampener to the manual's specification.

11) Put the tube back in the bike. Torque pinch bolts. Pour 13 ounces of new fork oil into the tube. Work the lower (outer tube) up and down slowly a few times to work the air out). Slide spring down into tube (tightly wound end of spring goes up!) Dont forget the little spring seat that sits on top of the spring. Place spacer into hole next.

12) Use your homemade hex tool and some downward force to get the cap bolt back screwed into the tube. Torque per the book, of course.

13) Replace caps onto cap bolts, Front wheel, calipers, speedo cable, fender, etc.

Aug 02, 2009 | 1985 Yamaha XJ 700 X Maxim

1 Answer

Need factory suspention settings for CBR600F 1999

hello the front forks are stock as follows.
the preload adjustment should be to where the third groove is shown just above the fork cap.
and the top screw (rebound dampening) turn clockwise till stopped. then out one turn counterclockwise.
then at the bottom of the fork. adjust the compression dampening screw all the way in clockwise then out 1.5 turns counterclockwise.
the same settings are for both forks.
the rear standard preload should be set with a spanner wrench and the 2nd notch from softest is standard.
at the bottom of the shock turn the damper screw in clockwise to stop, then turn out one turn.
and the comp dampening screw on the rear resivoir should be turned all the way in clockwise then turn out once turn counterclockwise.
and those are the stock settings.
thank you.

Mar 23, 2009 | 1999 Honda CBR 600 F(4)X

3 Answers

Yamaha yz250 suspension settings

There is too much involved to include everything, but I can describe to you what everything does.

You have compression dampening which slows the rate at which the shock or forks can compress. Then you have rebound dampening which slows the rate at which the shock or forks can extend.

The compression adjuster on the rear shock is toward the top, sticking out sideways where the resivoir mounts to the side of the shock. The rebound adjuster can be seen below the swing arm on the side of the shock.

The compression adjusters on the front forks can be seen from the top. (its the one in the center, the other is an air bleed) The rebound adjuster is in the center of the lower fork leg, and can be seen from below the fork.

The settings are measured in the number of "clicks" from seated. More clicks from seated will be softer, and less clicks from seated will be stiffer. The best thing to do is to see where you are now and adjusting from there. I like to write them down as I go. Turn the adjuster clockwise untill it stops and take note of the number of clicks. DO NOT FORCE IT! You should also check your service manual and take note of the standard setting, and also take note of the maximum number of clicks you can go from seated. You dont want to screw the adjusters out farther than the max, shock damage can result.

You might try changing to the standard settings and try adjusting from there. If the bike doesnt ride at least moderately decent at the standard settings, your shock and/or forks may need a rebuild.

Generally speaking more compression dampening in the rear will result in less bottoming but a harsher ride. Less would result in the oppisite.

More rebound dampening in the rear will result in too slow of extension and packing up which will make the bike swap in the whoops, but it will not tend to buck you or throw you into a nose dive over a jump. Less would result in the oppisite.

In the front, more compression dampening will be about the same situation as described above with the shock.

More rebound dampening in the front forks can tend to take pressure off of the front wheel in corners causing washout, but too little can make the bike want to loop out over jumps.

Nov 21, 2008 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 250

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