2007 Jeep Patriot Sport Logo
L
Leo R Posted on Oct 26, 2014
Answered by a Fixya Expert

Trustworthy Expert Solutions

At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.

View Our Top Experts

Front end rotation noise

So far I had the ball joints & tie rod ends replaced (about a year ago)now I have a rotation noise which I thought was a front wheel bearing and so did my mechanic and had that replaced yesterday, it's no better

  • Leo R
    Leo R Oct 26, 2014

    after the earing was changed and no differiant they put it on he lift and put it drive, no noise this noise also happens in neutral while driving (drifting)

×

1 Answer

Randy Ohler

Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

Superstar:

An expert that got 20 achievements.

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Jeep Master 14,585 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 26, 2014
Randy Ohler
Jeep Master
Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

Superstar:

An expert that got 20 achievements.

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

Joined: Jun 13, 2010
Answers
14585
Questions
8
Helped
3946953
Points
39683

It should have been thoroughly checked. Noises like these on four wheel drives could several different things. A bearing, CV axle, or the differential, or bearings in the differential. A wheel bearing will make different sounds when making a turn. A CV axle is a constant sound. Differential bearings can come and go, depending on if it is a bearing for the axle or a pinion bearing. Axle side bearings usually make a constant noise. The differential can also come and go. Depends on acceleration or slowing down. All these sounds are also with a vibration. Slight to harsh.

2 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 104 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 03, 2009

SOURCE: 1988 jeep wrangler 2.5 4wd

Needs someone to check for play in the items you have mentioned (though probably not the u-joints), plus the swaybar links, and shock absorbers. If you can get the vehicle jacked off the ground (with safety stands under it) you should be able to check most of these items with a suitable lever bar. Wobble the steering wheel side to side to check the tie rod ends, with the vehicle on the ground and one hand on the tie rod to feel for the clunking.

Ad

Anonymous

  • 1168 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 13, 2010

SOURCE: what causes the front end to jump and wobble

Hello Jake.
Seen this a few times in my shop.
Check the steering damper/stabilizer.
If the fluid has leaked out it will allow a kind of harmonic to take place and it won't stop until you slow right down.
The damper is like a shock absorber and it takes out that harmonic.
Undo one end of it and push/pull on it. if you feel any free play at all....replace it.
Get a good quality one as you know how important it is now.
This should cure your problem if all else is good.
Take care.

KL

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

A popping noise while I drive my Pontiac torrent

Hi most of the time would be a ball joint on lower control arms and tie rod ends are worn out. When you drive in to the hole on the road your wheel drops down and on its way up make this noise. This is worn ball joint. Problems with over and under steering would be worn out tie rod ends
0helpful
1answer

Ball joint bolt fell out upper in 2007 GMC Envoy

Upper ball joint? That's not related to the job of replacing a tie rod or tie rod end. It's also not related to the brake job.

It's an '07 and it had a bolt-in ball joint? That's not factory - it's been replaced before.
0helpful
1answer

Replace cv joints

Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.



FRONT DRIVESHAFTS

REMOVAL
  1. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and nut lock Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut from the end of the stub axle.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
  5. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
  6. Remove the two front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts
  7. Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  8. Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake Caliper Do not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
  9. Remove the brake rotor from the hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
  11. Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle Arm
  12. Remove the steering knuckle to ball joint stud, clamping nut and bolt Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment from the steering knuckle.
  13. Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering Knuckle Note: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut. NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
  14. Pull steering knuckle assembly out and away from the outer C/V joint of the driveshaft assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  15. Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
  16. Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
INSTALLATION
  1. Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
  2. Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
  3. Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
  4. Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
  5. Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
  6. Slide drive shaft back into front hub and bearing assembly. Then install steering knuckle onto the stud of the ball joint assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  7. Install a new steering knuckle to ball joint clamping bolt and nut Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment Tighten the clamping bolt and nut to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  8. Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
  9. Install braking disc on hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  11. Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
  12. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
  13. Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  14. Lower vehicle.
  15. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) Torquing Front Stub Axle To Hub Nut
  16. Install the spring wave washer on the end of the stub axle.
  17. Install the hub nut lock, and a new cotter pin Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock as shown in Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut
  18. Check for correct fluid level in transaxle assembly. Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for the correct fluid level checking procedure for the type of transaxle being checked.
  19. Set front toe on vehicle to required specification.
0helpful
1answer

How to change front end on 94 gran marquis

Front end is a pretty vague description of what you are trying to do. There are - shocks -lower ball joints -upper ball joints -inner tie rod ends -outer tie rod ends -idler arm -pitman arm -center link -stabilizer links -stabilizer bars It is not likely that all of those need to be replaced at the same time?

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

1helpful
1answer

Front end shimmy @ 65-70 mph

I would look at replacing your ball joints and/or tie rod ends, either can cause those symptoms. The balls joints should be check by a professional.

To check your tie rods jack one front side of your car check it, then do the other;

Move the front wheels. Placing your hands on the tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions, move the tire back and forth rapidly. A properly tightened front end will give no signs of excess movement and should give you the feeling of the entire wheel moving back and forth tight to the hub. If there is a movement, ask a friend or partner to ascertain where the movement is coming from. There could be many places that excess movement in a front end could be coming from. The tie rod ends are the easiest to check. Generally, if there is movement in the outer tie rod end, you will see it moving near the ball area where is sits down into the knuckle of the control arm. Excess movement there will require replacement of the outer tie rod. As far as movement on the inner tie rod, place your hand on that while your helper is moving the tire in the same motion described above. Determine how excessive the movement is, if any, for an inner tie rod. Some vehicles will give off a little movement in the rack and pinion. Some vehicles will have what feels like excess movement, but have pitman arms and idler arms that will also need to be checked. Those components should only be allowing side-to-side movement.
Take some time and make sure the lower ball joint is not moving. Place your hands on the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to move it up and down. Many vehicles nowadays have wheel bearing hub assemblies, and there should be absolutely no free-play whatsoever. If there is and the lower ball joint is not moving in the knuckle, chances are there's movement in the bearing. Some rear-wheel-drive vehicles have a bearing seated rotor and this can be adjusted to tighten the looseness in a bearing; however, a little movement in that type of application is generally OK.
2helpful
2answers

I own a ford festiva 1992 model, the car has been very reliable. just yesterday I notice a knocking noise that seems to come when turning the steering wheel from left to right even if the car is...

You should have your upper strut mounts and tie rod ends checked out. Many times when your ball joints wear out these parts are not to far behind them and can be in need of replacement. It would be a good idea to have the front end inspected, because the problem could be a safety issue. Some shops will give you a free estimate, in hopes of getting the repair job. I would use a shop that does front end alignment they will often offer better prices, and they tend to specialize in front end repairs. Good luck with it.
6helpful
2answers

I have a grinding noise coming from my front left tire! Sounds like the front end is gonna fall out from under the truck. Could that be ball joints, tie rod ends? When it makes this noise it feels like the...

Sounds like the noise is a bad bearing to me. If the ball joints or tie rod ends were bad, you would have irregular steering or in an extreme case, the front end would fall apart and you would lose steering abilities.
0helpful
2answers

I have a 2003 HD serria, i've rotated the tires, changed out both front end shocks. The right front end vaibrates when driven, Any one have any solutions. Steve Texas

YOU NEED TO CHECK TIE ROD END S AND WHEEL BEARING OR BALL JOINTS AND CONTROLL ARM BUSHING HOPE THIS HELPS LIFT TRUCK GRAB WHEEL AND LIGHTLY MOVE SIDE TO SIDE SEE IF YOU HAVE PLAY IN TIE RODS GRAB WHEEL TOP TO BOTTUM AND SEE IF WHEEL BEARING HAS PLAY OR SPIN THE WHEEL TO SEE IF YOU CAN HEAR GROONING NOISE FROM BEARING DOING THIS THINGS YOU MAY BE ABLE TO TELL IF ITS BALL JOINT TOO
10helpful
1answer

How to replace right front axle 2000 buick lesabre

Lift the passenger side of vehicle. Remove tire/wheel assembly. Remove the axle nut. Remove the tie rod end nut. Smack the side of the housing the tie rod end goes into to pop the tie rod end loose and out. Remove the sway bar link. Remove the lower ball joint nut. Smack the housing the lower ball joint goes into to pop the ball joint loose. Pry the lower control arm down to pop the ball joint out. swivel the rotor and strut assembly to the side. Pop the axle out. Reassemble in the reverse order.
1helpful
1answer

A noise coming from front end of my saturn is it my tie rods

The noise you hear could be the tie rod ends or several other front end items. Can you jack up the front end? If so then turn the wheels from side to side with your hands griping the wheel at the 9 and 3 oclock positions. if you feel freeplay or looseness you have to reach arround and place your hand on the outter tie rod end and see if the play is there or the inner tie rod end at the rack. I worked for saturn for a few yaears and we had ALOT of front struts that made a clunking sound over bumps. Don't forget the lower ball joints could be bad also. Check these by placing your hand on the bottom of the wheel and pushing and pulling on the wheel with it off the ground while checking the tie rod ends. Good Luck, Scott
Not finding what you are looking for?

551 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Jeep Experts

ZJ Limited
ZJ Limited

Level 3 Expert

17989 Answers

Thomas Perkins
Thomas Perkins

Level 3 Expert

15088 Answers

john h

Level 3 Expert

29494 Answers

Are you a Jeep Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...