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The problem is an old one & not seen a lot anymore. It's called dieseling. The way I always fixed it was a well kept secret and a highly scientific method. Put some wooden clothes pins on any exposed metal fuel lines in the engine compartment. Hope it cures your problem and good luck!!
That will burn out the engines bearings, if it knocks at all it is to late. Do verify the reading with a mechanical gauge if you haven't done so already. The rule is this at least 10-15 pounds at idle with hot oil, 10 PSI per 1000 RPM of engine speed. If engine is not knocking then replace the oil pump with a high pressure high volume pump.
Sure why not, all a stroker motor basically is, is changing the piston/connecting rod configuration to change the stroke. Don't know exactly what you intend to build, but I've built 900+hp small block chevrolet stroker motors in the past. I blueprinted, machined and fully internally balanced all components. This was a very costly and time consuming process but the end result was a sub 10 second quarter mile car. I'd suggest checking on some of the jeep forums for people who have done bulids like you may want to do and see what all other modifications to the vehicle you'll need to consider as well. I can tell you a performance engine and a stock transmission and suspension won't last long.
Sounds like the engine can't breath, make sure pcv valve is good,or oil cap is vented. your engine is building up pressure and has no where to vent,so it blows the easiest thing,the dip stick
Any High Performance ENGINE would Need to Be WIRED Seperatly from 1999 Set up Things Like Primary Ignition system ,As Far as How to Build the Stroker Engine , Go With What ever Specs You Like. It Just Has to be Wired AWAY from 1999 Set up
Jasper engines are rebuilt by that company and are exactly the same as the engine made by the manufacturer. (ford is ford, chevy is chevy etc.)
Therefore if you have a chevy engine built by jasper, then it is exactly the same as a chevy unless it was built to other non-factory specs (stroker crank, different compression pistons or performance cam) Without the original "sheet" on this, the only way to tell what's in there is by taking it apart and measuring it.
you could bring it up on tdc on comp stroke and make your own mark on crank pulley and block then at least you know where tdc is and google some 383's that have close to same equip as you and see what degree they are running or just play with it and see how it runs .
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