Question about 2003 Yamaha BT 1100 Bulldog

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Change rear brake fluid

Change the rear brake fluid after changing the brake hose (=air in the system) problem is to get the pump to start pumping brake fluid instead of air... How do I solve this?

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  • Anonymous Mar 22, 2014

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You will have to bleed the system by pumping up pressure, loosen bleed screw, then retighten and repeat as many time as necessary.

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

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3 Answers

I just bought 2004 mitsubishi with 113,000 miles on it. owner said he hasn't done much if any maintenance on it. what should I have replaced on it?


REPLACE SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES, REPLACE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR. NEED CHANGE ENGINE OIL AND OIL FILTER.YOU NEED CHANGE TIMING BELT HAS TO BE CHANGED EVERY 60000 MILES TIMING BELT CHANGING TIME OVER DUE.REPLACE WATER PUMP WHEN YOU REPLACE TIMING BELT BECAUSE TIMING COVER HAS TO BE REMOVED WHEN YOU REPLACE WATER PUMP ALSO GET BOTH DONE SAVE TIME AND MONEY.CHANGE TRANSMISSION FLUID AND FILTER.REPLACE FUEL FILTER AND AIR FILTER.FLUSH COOLANT SYSTEM REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP HAVE GARAGE FLUSH OUT BRAKE SYSTEM ADD NEW BRAKE FLUID.INSPECT BRAKES HOSES CHECK FRONT BRAKES PADS AND CHECK INSIDE CALIPER FOR LEAKING SEALS CHECK REAR DRUM BRAKE SHOES CHECK FOR LEAKING WHEEL CYLINDER SEALS.CHECK BALL JOINTS AND STEERING LINKAGE SEALS.CHECK DRIVE BELT OR BELTS.CHECK POWER STEERING FLUID LOOK OLD DIRTY HAVE GARAGE CHANGE POWER STEERING FLUID.ALL THOSE THINGS HAS TO BE CHECK AND DONE IF LAST OWNER NEGLECT DID NOT TAKE CARE OF VECHICLE.ITS GOING TO BE A EXPENSIVE COST. JUST DO A LITTLE AT A TIME.THE TIMING BELT WOULD BE MY WORRY IF IT BREAKS ENGINE IS DONE.I WOULD REPLACE WATER PUMP AND TIMING BELT FIRST WOULD DRIVE MUCH UNTIL THATS FIX.

Aug 28, 2011 | 2004 Mitsubishi Diamante

2 Answers

The brake cylinder in the right rear tire started leaking. I changed it and bled the brakes., now they won't stop and will go all the way to the floor. where and how do I adjust them? THANK YOU jOE!


You may need to further bleed the brakes. Something pumping to bleed the brakes can **** in air at the brake fluid reservoir. Try using a vacuum pump to **** out brake fluid from the release screw at the brake side. Make sure you always have enough fluid at the reservoir.

Feb 28, 2011 | Chevrolet Caprice Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What is required in the 90K & 105K services


Action: Description

Inspect Cooling system hoses
Torque Body Fasteners
Inspect Idle speed
Inspect Exhaust system heat shields
Inspect Fuel lines
Inspect Emission System
Torque Frame Fasteners
Replace Air filter element
Inspect Drive Belt(s)
Change fluid Automatic transmission/transaxle
Inspect Parking brake
Inspect Ball joints
Drain, flush & refill Cooling system
Inspect Steering system
Inspect Brake system
Inspect Brake lines & hoses
Inspect Axle Shaft Oil Seal
Change fluid Rear differential
Inspect Driveshaft Universal Joint(s)
Inspect Constant Velocity Joint Boots
Change fluid Brake system
Replace Crankcase Oil Filter
Lubricate Door checks
Inspect fluid level Manual transmission/transaxle
Inspect fluid level Front differential
Inspect fluid level Transfer case
Inspect fluid level Rear differential
Change fluid Crankcase

Feb 09, 2011 | 2004 Kia Sorento

1 Answer

I'm a mid-age woman w/a 94 DeVille that I want to change the brake fluid myself. How do I do that? Thank you!


BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING Diagonal Split System MASTER CYLINDER
  1. Refill the master cylinder reservoir.
  2. Push the plunger several times to force fluid into the piston.
  3. Continue pumping the plunger until the fluid is free of the air bubbles.
  4. Plug the outlet ports and install the master cylinder.
COMPLETE SYSTEM
  1. Fill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid. Check the level often during the procedure.
  2. Starting with the right rear wheel, remove the protective cap from the bleeder, if equipped, and place where it will not be lost. Clean the bleed screw. When bleeding the brakes, keep face away from the brake area. Spewing fluid may cause facial and/or visual damage. Do not allow brake fluid to spill on the vehicle's finish; it will remove the paint.
  3. If the system is empty, the most efficient way to get fluid down to the wheel is to loosen the bleeder about 1?2 - 3?4 turn, place a finger firmly over the bleeder and have a helper pump the brakes slowly until fluid comes out the bleeder. Once fluid is at the bleeder, close it before the pedal is released inside the vehicle. NOTE: If the pedal is pumped rapidly, the fluid will churn and create small air bubbles, which are difficult to remove from the system. These air bubbles will eventually congregate resulting in a spongy pedal.
  4. Once fluid has been pumped to the caliper or wheel cylinder, open the bleed screw again, have the helper press the brake pedal to the floor, lock the bleeder and have the helper slowly release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds and repeat the procedure (including the 15 second wait) until no more air comes out of the bleeder upon application of the brake pedal. Remember to close the bleeder before the pedal is released inside the vehicle each time the bleeder is opened. If not, air will be induced into the system.
  5. If a helper is not available, connect a small hose to the bleeder, place the end in a container of brake fluid and proceed to pump the pedal from inside the vehicle until no more air comes out the bleeder. The hose will prevent air from entering the system.
  6. Repeat the procedure on remaining wheel cylinders in order:
    1. Step 1: Left front
    2. Step 2: Left rear
    3. Step 3: Right front
  7. Hydraulic brake systems must be totally flushed if the fluid becomes contaminated with water, dirt or other corrosive chemicals. To flush, bleed the entire system until all fluid has been replaced with the correct type of new fluid.
  8. Install the bleeder cap(s) on the bleeder to keep dirt out. Always road test the vehicle after brake work of any kind is done.
Teves® Anti-lock Brake System FRONT BRAKES
  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF throughout this procedure.
  2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
  3. Remove the reservoir cap. Check and/or refill the master cylinder reservoir.
  4. Using the bleeder adapter tool, install it onto the fluid reservoir.
  5. Attach a diaphragm type pressure bleeder to the adapter and charge the bleeder to 20 psi.
  6. Using a transparent vinyl tube, connect it to either front wheel caliper and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
  7. Open the bleeder valve 1?2 - 3?4 turn and purge the caliper until bubble free fluid flows from the hose.
  8. Tighten the bleeder screw and remove the bleeder equipment.
  9. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the pump to charge the accumulator.
  10. After bleeding, inspect the pedal for sponginess and the brake warning light for unbalanced pressure; if either of the conditions exist, repeat the bleeding procedure.
REAR BRAKES
  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
  3. Check and/or refill the master cylinder reservoir.
  4. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the system to charge. NOTE: The pump will turn OFF when the system is charged.
  5. Using a transparent vinyl tube, connect it to a rear wheel bleeder valve and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
  6. Open the bleeder valve 1?2 - 3?4 turn and slightly depress the brake pedal for at least 10 seconds or until air is removed from the brake system. Close the bleeder valve. NOTE: It is a good idea to check the fluid level several times during the bleeding operation. Remember, depressurize the system before checking the reservoir fluid.
  7. Repeat the bleeding procedure for the other rear wheel.
  8. After bleeding, inspect the pedal for sponginess and the brake warning light for unbalanced pressure; if either of the conditions exist, repeat the bleeding procedure.
Bosch® III Anti-lock Brake System
  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
  3. Check and/or refill the reservoir to the full mark.
  4. Using a transparent vinyl hose, connect it to a pump bleeder screw and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
  5. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
  6. Move the transparent vinyl hose to the hydraulic unit bleeder screw. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
  7. Disconnect the bleeder hose.
  8. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the hydraulic unit to charge; the pump should turn OFF after 30 seconds.
Bosch® 2U Anti-lock Brake System
  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
  3. Check and/or refill the reservoir to the full mark.
  4. Using a transparent vinyl hose, connect it to a pump bleeder screw and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
  5. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
  6. Move the transparent vinyl hose to the hydraulic unit bleeder screw. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
  7. Disconnect the bleeder hose.
  8. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the hydraulic unit to charge; the pump should turn OFF after 30 seconds.
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Sep 02, 2010 | 1994 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

Changed rear brake pads tryed to bleed in case of air but still have soft pedal


You have an air bubble in the master cylinder. If you are lucky you can wiggle the brake pedal and get it to move into the reservoir . Mechanics push brake fluid backwards from the brake cylinder to the master cylinder ( with a special pump ) to remove the air . If you have access, you can lay down plastic and rags and loosen the hollow bolt attaching the brake hose to the master cylinder ( about 1/8 turn) now pump the pedal once or twice. Re tighten the bolt while slowly pushing down on the pedal, re bleed the system at the back and usually this will get the bubble out.

May 20, 2010 | 1999 Honda GL 1500 SE Gold Wing

1 Answer

What is the 90,000 mile service for a 2001 Isuzu Vehicross?


Change front/rear axle oil
Change transfer case oil
Air filter
Engine coolant
Rotate tires
Fluid level on battery/radiator/brakes
Change oil and filter
Inspect for fluid leaks
Inspect coolant and heater hoses
Check exhaust system
Check drive belts/tires/wheels/brake lines
Check steering operation/disc brakes/brake pedal play
Check parking brake
Check and lube accelerator linkage
Check suspension/steering/power steering fluid
Lube body and chassis
Check TOD system fluid
Check cruise control linkage and hoses
Check starter safety switch
Lube key lock cylinder

Jan 15, 2010 | 2001 Isuzu VehiCROSS

2 Answers

Need to know how to bleed the brake system? just changed front and rear brakes pads and shoes ... need to bleed brakes


I will assume you have some mechanical ability to explain this process:

Remove cover on master cylinder and make sure the brake fluid is filled to the proper level.
-For a one man job; get a piece of 3/16" X 2' clear plastic hose.
-Starting at the furthest brake cylinder; typically the right rear wheel.
-With the proper wrench, loosen the bleeder valve and place the hose over the opening.
-Fill an empty container (empty brake fluid bottle works great) about 1/4 of the way with brake fluid...put the other end of the hose into the container, ensuring the end of the hose is secure in the bottom of the container.
-Open the bleeder valve, ho around to the driver side and pump the brake pedal (slowly or you'll make a mess under the hood), about three times.
-Refill the master cylinder and repeat until the liquid in the hose is clear.
-Repeat process for the left rear, right front, and then the left front.

Good Luck! If this helps please indicate so.

Nov 18, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

How to change the brake fluid in a yamaha xvz


Keep filling the master cylinder fluid reservoir with new brake fluid of the right type. ( DOT 3, DOT 4, Dot 5 ) Put a hose, of the right size, on the bleed screw and put the end in a jar. Pump the brake handle or pedal several times and then hold it on. Open the bleed screw, on the caliper, and fluid mixed with air will come out. Close the screw, pump it up again and repeat the process. Keep it up until you have a firm feel to the lever and no air in the brake fluid coming out. Lastly hose everything off with water to remove any trace of brake fluid.
  • Be patient, keep bleeding the system... this may take quite a while.
  • Even after lots of effort, the brakes can feel spongy. This can be from old brake lines which are expanding just a bit. The cure is new lines.

    Sep 28, 2009 | Yamaha Royal Star Tour Deluxe Motorcycles

    1 Answer

    Spongie brakes


    Gravity bleeding doesnt usually work real well.

    Get a clear jar of some type, and a piece of 1/4 inch vacuum hose about 18 inches long. Put about 2 inches of new brake fluid in the container.

    Start at the passenger rear wheel, losen the bleeder, slide the hose tightly over the open bleeder, the other end in the jar where you can see the hose end.
    Fill master cylinder reservoir.

    Pump brake no more than 4 times, watching the hose end in the jar for bubbles. After 4 pumps, check reservoir, refill. Pump 4 more times. Watch for bubbles. Check reservoir, pump 4 more times. If you see bubbles at any time, then keep going through the above steps until you stop seeing bubbles.

    Go to rear wheel, tighten bleeder. Go to driver rear wheel, and do the same thing, although this time it won't take but 4-6 pumps to purge any air.

    Go to passenger front, repeat.
    Go to driver front, repeat.

    Do not recycle any of the fluid.

    Jan 28, 2009 | 1991 GMC C1500

    1 Answer

    No brake fluid going to drives side back brake


    1. You could have air in the lines yet, but more specifically, I would need to know if you have anti-skid system in your car. Also, you may have a proporation valve in the system that has to be activitated before the system can be bled.

    In bleeding, you start at the rear wheels first and then work to the front, doing the master cyclinder last.
    Finally, the brake master cyclinder is designed so that the front part of the cylinder pumps fluid to only one front wheel and only one rear wheel. The rear part of the master cylinder only pumps fluid to the other 1 front and 1 rear. This is so that if you loose your brakes, you will always have a rear and front working.
    Bill

    Oct 11, 2008 | 1992 Buick LeSabre

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