Truns over great but wont start
The bike cranks this is good battery would appear OK, first check the run/stop switch is set to run. How old is the fuel if over 2 to 3 months replace it, do you have a spark on each plug, is the clutch interface switch stuck, is the side stand switch operating correctly. The list is endless I am sorry to say. When you last rode the bike was it OK? When you stopped it after the last time of riding did you do anything that was not the norm i.e. stall, stop in gear etc? Is it possible the fuel level is low and you need to engage reserve?
Sometimes the fuel tank breather gets blocked this prevents fuel flowing to carbs or injectors.
Sorry that this is not a yep that's your problem type of answer and hope it is something simple.
SOURCE: 2002 HONDA SHADOW ACE 750 CARB
It sounds like you may have or will be jetting your carbs. I did this using the directions with the kit and used the Clyman manual for this bike to show me step by step how to remove the carborator. You will only need to attach 2 of the 4 hoses on your carb. syncronizer. If I remember right, you need to remove the bolt-on cooling fins to expose the engine block. The is a black screw or bolt that you take out and screw the threaded metal adapter of the sync tool. Be careful using the sync tool. Be very light on the throttle or the vacuum in the cylinder will **** in the mercury from the sync tool - not good. The problem you are stating on idle & backing off sometimes happens when the carbs are running rich (too much fuel) Hope that gets you in the right direction.
SOURCE: 98 Honda Shadow Ace 750 VT750CD2 spark plugs
You need a long reach plug wrench tool should have one in your bikes tool kit .
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SOURCE: What is the tire pressure for front and rear tire
First look in your Owners manual it should tells you the numbers, else, try 32 psi FR and RR, or 36 psi if carrying a load on RR.
SOURCE: How do I test the starter switch on a 2001 Honda
Maybe I am missing somethtg here ... you press the start switch and one of 2 things happens - the bike starts or it doesn't. If it does, your start switch is definitely good. If it doesn't ... well there are a couple things to consider. Are you in gear? Will not start in gear unless the clutch is pulled in. But, if the clutch is pulled in and you are in gear and the side stand is down, it will not start. So, if you move the side stand up, you are in gear and you have the clutch pulled in and it doesn't start ... well ... could be the key is not on (silly but true) and/or the 'kill switch" may be in the off position causing your bike to not start. If the clutch is pulled in, the side stand is up and you are in neutral and the kill switch is in the run position and the key is on - (or some other very similar arrangement as I have described) your Shadow should start. Nothing here has ruled out a bad switch nor, for that matter, a good switch.
You bike will still not start - so what else to look at/for. How is the battery? Have you checked it recently? Your battery MIGHT still be the original in which case I would be suspect of it being 10 years old. Maybe you or a previous owner has replaced it ... still, have you checked it? You will find it under the seat.
Battery good and still will not start? Find the start solenoid. With a volt meter, measure the voltage at each of the large terminals. One shold be 12 volts (battery side) the other should be zero volts (starter side). You will check the smaller terminals later . Key Off? No volts on smaller terms. With everything in a normal start condition (key on, bike in neutral, kill switch in run position), measure the voiltage on the other large terminal on the start solenoid. Should be zero. Press the start button. Do you get voltage? No voltage = the solenoid is either not receiving power to energise or it is energised but not making connection.
What happens is when you turn on the key you supply power to potentially anything that can be turned on. When you press the start button, you should be powering the start solenoid (an electric operated switch) That should allow power to flow to the starter and start the bike. If all that is happening, I would suspect the starter. If everything is OK but it doesn't start, suspect the solenoid and lastly ... the switch. I think I would consider jumping power directly to the starter to see if that actually runs before looking at the switch. The actual start switch is pretty tuff compared to other parts of the system.
Let me know what happens ... good luck. I think you will find something simple.
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