Question about 2001 Boss Hoss BHC 190 Hp

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Having starter or starting system problems

Turn the key and the large relay off the positive battery cable engages (clunk so to speak) but when hitting the starter button the small square starter relay gives just a light click, but nothing more and nothing happening at the starter. Battery voltage was a little low, but even with a jump from a car battery still nothing.Wish I had a simple starting system schematic to follow.

Thanks and regards, Stan

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I would normally say check the bat. connections but since you tried jumping it off i will lean towards starter solenoid.

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

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1992Cadilac fleeteood brougham got new starter done put battery im and the car tries to turn over with no key in ignition and negetive post sparks battery

It sounds to me that the small post or wire going to the starter is touching the large wire. The large wire is the positive battery cable and the small wire is the signal wire from the ignition switch. If the two are touching each other the starter will engage as soon as power is applied and circuit is completed at the battery.

May 21, 2015 | 1992 Cadillac Fleetwood

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Sorry for the lack of info The starter is new, disconnected the battery replaced the starter ad when the battery was connected the starter starts turning with out the ignition on but not engaging. The...

Well, if your starter starts to turn when you hook the battery cable up, then you have hooked the cable to the wrong post on the starter. You have two large posts and one small post on the starter solenoid, the battery cable goes on the large post that has nothing else hooked to it. The other large post should have a large braided cable going into the starter motor housing. If the starter still will not turn the engine over when it is wired correctly then you will need to look closer at the flywheel ring gear.

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Car won't start, new battery, lights are good, no dimming...I turn the key and it doesn't even click...ignition relay/switch maybe?

If I understand your question correctly, the car won't turn over (engine won't crank). While it's possible that the starter relay may be bad, the first place I'd look is the starter solenoid. If you follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should lead you to the starter solenoid, which is mounted on the starter itself (you may have to crawl under the passenger side of the car to locate it). The cable from the battery attaches to one large terminal on the solenoid, while a very short cable leading into the starter attaches to the other large terminal. Using a screwdriver with an insulate handle, momentarily bridge or jumper between the two large terminals being careful to not touch the screwdriver to starter or solenoid casings. If the starter momentarily engages when you do this, look at the starter relay as the culprit. If nothing happens when you jumper the two large terminals, the starter solenoid is faulty. This is a picture of the starter with solenoid so you know what you're looking for.

mpa6645s_3.jpg Good luck.

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Battery shows 12.8 volts only dash lights up hit starter button and nothing now did try to engage once

Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
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Clunk or click? A click would be the starter solenoid trying to engage the starter. Recheck battery and starter connections for tightness. If they are good, it is possible you got a defective starter and should have it tested. If it is good, make sure you have power at the solenoid wire (small purple wire, I think) when key is held in the crank position.
Aside from that, are your battery cables in good condition?

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Where is the starter relay in 97 oldsmobile aurora

In a '97 model car most of your relays would be in the power distribution box by the battery, but very seldom that is the problem. Truthfully, without a multi-meter and some electrical systems understanding, you would just be looking in the dark. But having checked your battery connections-both cables are snug and tight on a new, fully charged battery? And the new starter had its mounting bolts down tight and, most important, the electrical connections (large battery cable end, and the small starter solenoid wire) all put back in place and tightened down?

Well, if you got it all back together right, turning the key to crank should send voltage to the small wire on the starter solenoid, energizing it and allowing battery voltage to pass to the starter motor and thus crank the engine over. If you have a problem with the starter, that's where you start looking=at the starter. Check if the small wire has power in start position of the ignition switch. Cheery-o's!

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1 Answer

Starter keeps on running

Hi, Calvin your starter motor stays engaged because the solenoid positive plunger contact plate/disc has spot welded itself to the negative contact shoes usually caused by low battery voltage and/or a faulty starter relay, your starter motor has two main systems the motor itself and the starter solenoid which transfers high amperage to the motor enabling it to turn over your engine, your issue only involves the starter solenoid and can be repaired in most cases. The solenoid is the part that has a large copper stud protruding from it that the positive battery cable connects to. Start by disconnecting the battery negative cable and wrapping the cable terminal with any kind of tape so it will not accidently touch metal and make all electrical circuits hot again, remove the starter solenoid cap and with a screwdriver break away the contact plate from the shoes and clean/dress all electrical arc residue. In order to diagnose the starter circuit, you must start with a fully charged battery, 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary. The battery cables and terminals must be clean and tight. The "NEGATIVE" cable is famous for corroding and or breaking inside the harness, check the terminals at both ends. Check your starter relay with a test light for continuity, it could be faulty due to corrosion and sticking in a closed configuration, another claim to fame. Finally, there is the starter solenoid, low battery voltage or faulty battery connections will cause extremely high amperage at the plate and contact shoes and rob the hold in coils of much-needed voltage. In extreme cases, the solenoid plunger plate will literally spotweld itself to the contact shoes, keeping the circuit closed and thus permanent engagement. Another scenario is unacceptable voltage drop to the starter solenoid from the ignition switch to the starter relay to the starter button, and finally to the solenoid. Remove the starter relay wire from the starter solenoid and hook up the positive lead of your voltmeter to the relay wire connector and ground the negative lead. Turn on the ignition switch and depress starter button, the voltage reading should be no more than 1/2 volt less than the battery voltage. If it is more than 1/2 volt you need to backtrack that part of the circuit with your voltmeter until you find the voltage robbing offender. Next, remove the solenoid plunger, dress the plate and the contact shoes of arching residue and make sure the contact shoes are tight and secure. If you have done all of the above, replace the starter relay wire, hook up your voltmeter to the battery and check the voltage drop when you start the engine, anything below 9 volts could indicate a faulty battery and a proper "LOAD" test should be performed.
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If its a new starter check and see that the wires are hooked up right, could be time for a new starter, or starter relay on the fender well, or the ignition switch is bad.

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