Question about 2005 Honda CBR 1000 RR Fireblade

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I dropped my bike and need to replace the bar end, when i took it off i noticed the bolt was broken inside where it threads in. If i get a new bar end it won't work, how would i fix it

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You need to remove that bolt. I suggest a left handed drill bit, use a center punch in the center of the broken bolt to start the hole. If it does not come out just from the drill use an Easy-Out to finish the extraction. Worst case scenario you can drill a larger hole and put a recoil kit in there to make new threads.

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How does my tie rod bar go back on?


I assume you already took it off? If not, unpin the cotter pin so you can r/r the outer bolt from the steering arm. Remove remove the bolt connecting the steering arm & outer ty rod end. Separate the steering arm & ty W a power hammer splitter ( or some type) loosen inner lock bolt, to keep alignment at same spec, count turns (counterclockwise) the amt of turns to complete the removal.Grease threads of new ty count clockwise turns to the same # removal took & lock the outer bolt to the steering arm and lock inner bolt too.Install a new cotter pin in outer holdown bolt & your set. You may still need an alignment unless you where counting turns already while remonig it. Good Luck Frank M

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The bike was drop before I bought it an the top exhaust bolt broke how do I replace


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Jun 11, 2015 | Motorcycles

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How do u get the spare trye out of the back


Put your head under the rear of the vehicle, near to the back of the car in the centre you should see a threaded bar with a hook on it. This should hook onto the back edge of the wheel rack. The length of the bar is controlled by screwing the threaded bar from inside the trunk with the wheel nut wrench. If it's not broken, it was not tightened up enough, it traps the spare wheel between the rack and the boot floor. When it is tightened up the bar should lock against the hook end to stop this happening.

Jan 01, 2014 | 1989 Ford Fiesta 1.4

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I feel like I'm missing something. I can not attach the handlebars to the bike. I have one long screw, a bolt and some small black cylinder cut on an angle. The instructions are not helpful because...


the cylinder cut on an angle is what the long bolt should bolt to, put the cylinder below the handle bars, and drop the long nut down through the handle bars and into the cylinder, ( the hole in it should be threaded,) only start the bolt so it hangs onto the cylinder, then feed that into the top of the neck hole, where the handle bars slide into,, once the desired height is ok,, tighten that bolt, the cylinder will come up at an angle and tighten the neck and handle bars !! Good Luck

Jul 02, 2011 | Dynacraft Girls 16" Barbie Bike

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I took off the bar on my huskie 350 and one of the bolts fell inside how do I find the bolt and replace it


The bar bolt should be an interference fit in the crankcase, if it has fallen out there is now a tollerence issue with the composit crankcsae, start by removing the oil tank filler cap, drain out the chain oil, now shake the machine until the bolt falls out of the filler opening, you now need to increase the diameter of the bolt where it fits into the crankcase or it will just fall out again, take a good centre punch and punch the shank of the bar bolt where it fits into the tank ( this will help to hold it tight in the crankcase ) now mark the threaded end of the bar bolt so as you know where top dead centre is ( you need to do this because the bolt has a square on the back which must fit into a squre socket on the inside of the oil tank ) there is a number of ways to re align it back into the bar pad, a magnet on a rod fed through the oil filler hole, or feed a lenght of thin wall tubing through the bar pad hole and out through the oil filler hole, push the bar bolt thread into the tubing, now pull it back through.Once the thread comes through use the bar nut and a spacer to pull it fully home, remember to get the top dead centre mark you did earlier at the top before pulling the bolt fully in, or the square on the back will not sit into its socket .

Feb 03, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

How to install bar ends on a bmx bike


Hi there,

If your grips have closed ends, cut a section off so you have plenty of grip left, but a hole where the bar ends can go through. Follow below procedure with the bar ends.

Bar ends are either have a screw or allen key head. Tap them into the ends of the bars with a rubber mallet. Tighten up the screw/bolt as this will make them expand keeping them inside the bars.

If you need to remove the grips:

Get some hairspray and lift the edge of the handlebar grips up, spray down until the grip is slippy and comes off. (Only use hairspray though, as once it is slippy, it will be very sticky in a minute so it will help when you replace it. Repeat for the other grip. Clean up the bars where the grips were. Refit the grips with more hairspray inside the grip and a little on the bars. Slide them on and leave for a good 6 hours so they stick.

Hope this helps mate, please vote for me :)

Jul 02, 2010 | FEDERAL BMX Bike Grip Red Nylon Bar Ends

2 Answers

How do i change fork seals on a Kawasaki gt 550 89' and or chec and add oil


Hi,

I was told by many people it was a hard job.
I didn't think so.

What you need is:
New Seals.
8mm Allen Key.
Half Inch Stocket bar AND Extender.
Extra Fine Sand Paper/Polishing Device.
Fork Oil + Measuring Jug.
Threaded Bar with a Two 19mm Nuts Locked to each other on one end.
Spanners.
Screw Drivers.

How to do:

First Get the Front end off the Ground (ALOT, Center Stand on Bricks for extra height.)

Remove Front Wheel and Brake Calipers.

Open Drain Philips Screw on Base of Fork (Both Sides). Dont Lose Rubber washer under screw. Watch Out Also for Oil Being under Pressure.

Remove Nut from TOP of Fork (Alowing Handles and mirrors to come loose).

From Top you can see down tube has Nut/Cap with a Square Half Inch center. Use Socket Bar (and Extender if needed) without Bit to Remove reach in and remove. Watchout for Spring Pressure under the Cap/Nut.

Use Screw Driver or Hook of some kind to remove Preload Spacers, Washers AND Spring from Fork.

Slide your Threaded Bar with19mm Nuts (Make sure they are Locked Tight together at one end) down into the Fork and let it catch on the Oil Damper at the base. You will know when it's cought because you wont be able to spin the threaded bar anymore. This will stop the Damper from spinning while you undo the Allen Bolt at the very base under the fork (Outside).

Use Allen Key to remove Bolt from Underside of Fork While having someone or somthing hold the Threaded Bar form spinning.

Now look at the Old bust/leaking Oil Seal. There will be a Clip/Locking Spring in a Groove holding it in place.

Remove Clip without Damaging any part of clip or fork.

If Everything above was Done, you can now give the slider( Bottom Part) a big tug and it will all come lose.

One Part of the Oil damper will either fall off, or be left in the slider(Bottom Part). It slides over the Damper in the base of the tube.

Clean Everything.

Clean Again.

Polish Tube.

Clean Again.

Remove Two Split Washers from base of Tube and Copper Washer. Remove Old Oil Seal.

Place New Oil Seal on Gently.

Replace back on Copper washer, followed by two split washers.

Use Grease as a kind of glue to hold the part of damper that fell off back on.

Slide Slider back onto Tube.

Screw Allen Bolt back into base of slider as per originally was (Remeber to hold Threaded Bar if it starts spinning)

Push Gently new Oil Seal into Fork Slider for Snug Fit. Be Gental.

Replace Clip/Spring over top of Oil Seal Locking it in place.

Remove your threaded bar from top of Fork.

Replace Spring into Fork.

Replace Philips Oil Drain Screw into base of fork (Dont forget Rubber washer).

Now: For a GT550 (I am told also KZ550 but can confirm) you need 300ml of 15 weight Fork Oil. EACH Fork. So a Total of 600ml whole Job. IN EACH SIDE YOU WILL ADD ONLY 300ml of FORK OIL. (15w)

After this. Replace any washers, Preload Spacers and so back into for.

Replace Cap/Nut into Fork Tube with Socket Wrench and Extender.

Replace Handles and Moirrors and Nut holding both of these.

Replace back onto bike the Front Wheel

Check Brake Calipers for leaks and Pad Wear. It's Very Cheap to get new Pads. Not cheap to have months off work after a crash.

Replace back onto bike Calipers.

Pushing Bike (Not ride) test Brakes and Suspension.

At This point I am thinking your done. You may need to Add Air Preload into the Fork via the Air Valve. 4PSI is a Starting Point. I have run upto 15psi. Without Air in the Preload you may find it too soft. Upto you.


Did I Forget Anything?


Sep 11, 2009 | 1992 kawasaki GT 750

1 Answer

My bike fell over the other day and broke the left front signal light. How do I change that light? My bike is a 2008 Suzuki Boulevard c90t.


By carefully studying the lighting system on my bike I was able to determine how to remove the light bar by removing two alan bolts on the underside of the light bar and in between the forks. Once the light bar was removed I was able to gain access to the philips screw which holds the signal light on the bar. After removing that screw I traced the wiring back to the head light where I noticed that the head light itself needed to be removed in order to gain access to the wiring inside the headlight assembly. Once inside I was able to unplug the two wires which lead to the signal light and then pull them through the light bar and remove the broken signal light. Replacing the new signal light was simply a matter of reversing the process. Thanks for getting back to me though. By taking the time to study the situation, I learned more about my bike.
Dave

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1 Answer

Husqvarna chainsaw bar bolt loose and leaking oil


had same! was set to release the max amount of oil to bar, but the thread is only so long and will drop out of seat, send it for service and note the bar feeder srew, its faster and cheaper! good luck p.s great saw!

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4 Answers

Ratchet noise, beater will not turn, belt not broken, in carpet mode the Dyson d07 makes huge ratchet noise and the belt will not turn the beater brush.


Ok, so I had the same ratching noise and took the advice of many sites directing me to clean the brush. But like most I cleaned the brush and the noise continues and the brush does not spin. Reluctant to take it to get serviced I dug a little deeper and now it works just fine. This is what you need to do as removing any hair from just the brush part will not be enough.
Remove the entire brush bar from the bottom of the Dyson, this means pulling the bar out of the drive belt. This is not to difficult just use a little muscle as the belt will stretch. Once the bar is out grasp hold of the two plastic end caps on the brush bar which the brush bar actual spins in. These two caps are connected by a slim metal rod which runs through the brush bar. Place one hand on each side and begin to twist and pull until one of the caps comes off. Once the cap is off of the one side you can pull the other cap from the other side through the brush bar as this cap will be the one attached to the slim bar I mentioned above. If like mine you will see a ton of hair wrapped around these caps and inside the ends of the brush bar. Clean them out as best as possible.
After you clean it out, run the cap with the rod back through the brush bar, attach the other cap and twist and push together. Make sure the caps lineup which each other just like they were when you pulled it out. You'll notice how much more freely the brush bar spins between the two caps then before you cleaned it. Now, pull on the drive belt and feed the brush bar back through and attach as it was to begin with. This did the trick for me.

Apr 25, 2009 | Dyson DC07 Animal Bagless Upright Cyclonic...

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