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Re: oil leak 2008flstc crank case
Whenever you changed a gasket you should have checked if the barrel top or the other bit on top is leveled.These usually gets deformed just like cars whenever the gasket blows...I am using my experience from cars and motorbike to say this but most of my experience in bikes usually solve this by tightening the barrel screw,as if to lock the combustion chamber better...this usually solve this but if it does not then you need to get them out and check for uneven level and may need to sent to a machine shop to fix this..Hope this helps and please rate this solution..
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I just solve that isue on my Comanche...one of the gaskets is leaking little oil tha oil with the temperature and speed land a few tiny drops on the crank shaft sensor located on top of the transmision..what I did is take a can of brake cleaner and spray it on the crank shaft sensor almost empty the spary can, wait for about 20 min to dry and like magic start again...if this don't make sense on your case please let me know and I help you out.
Dear Sir, Here is the oil leaking Problem Identifying Technique
Engine oil leaks from the valve cover gasket are common.
The intake manifold plenum gasket may leak and cause increased oil consumption/burning and a spark knock during acceleration; the gasket should be replaced.
External oil leaks from valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets (front or rear), and the rear crankshaft (rear main) seal area are common. The rear main seal is an unlikely source. Normally, the bearing cap mating surfaces (as well as the sealing surface between the oil pan and bearing cap) are the source for the leaks.
If the oil filter casing shows signs of distortion from excessive oil pressure, theoil pump should be replaced.
Often misdiagnosed as a leaking oil filter gasket, the oil filter adapter can seep from between the adapter and engine block.
Carbon buildup on the top of the piston is common. As the buildup increases with mileage and over time, symptoms may vary from light ticking, to ticking/hammering, to hammering/knocking noises. Fuel injector cleaner often solves the problem.
CHECK FOR COOLANT LEAKS AROUND THE RADIATOR LOOK DOWN BETWEEN COOLING FANS AND RADIATOR SIDES FOR SIGNS OF ANTIFREEZE.CHECK ALL RADIATORS HOSES AND HEATER HOSES.IF ALL LOOK GOOD CHECK ENGINE OIL FOR COOLANT LEAKS.IF OIL LOOKS LIKE MILK SHAKE COOLANT LEAKING IN CRANK CASE.YOU HAVE A HEAD GASKET LEAK.YOU NEED TO CHANGE OIL + FILTER. GET THE HEAD GASKET FIX.BECAUSE LEAK IN THE CRANK CASE WILL LOCK UP THE ENGINE.IF CRANK CASE OIL LOOKS OKAY.YOU DONT HAVE THE COOLANT CORRECT MIXTURE.YOU SHOULD HAVE 50/50 ANTIFREEZE AND WATER.
good day... try to see where its coming from but i believe that its coming from the crank case or your oil pan drainage is a little loose. try to replace the oil pan gasket if it comes from the crank case. tighten the oil drainage if its a little loose. hope this helps. have a nice day
Get that fixed ASAP, Water in the oil will destroy the bearings. The intake manifold gaskets may be bad, leaking water into the engine. Have a repair shop check it out and recommend repairs. Do not put this off, unless you want a new car.
Take the car to a car wash and power wash the engine. Do this ONLY with a cold engine. And be prepared to have problems with it starting as water get's into the electrical components. Take some WD-40 with you to spray inside distributor caps, on spark wiring, etc. to get the engine running again.
Then check the engine weekly to see where the oil is coming from.
perhaps you need a new cap and roter a new spark plug wire set. they don;t like moisture. also check to see if you have any broken or leaking vacuum hoses. the worse case senerio would be that your head gasket is leaking--at cold temps a little antifreeze will enter until everything warms up and it seals shut due to metal expanding. but since you say it's cold weather only--this probably wou;dn't be the case. good luck.