An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: how do i change a GPZ500s fork oil
You don't just top it up... replacing the oil consists of removing the forks, disassembly, cleaning, filling with an exact measured amount of the correct weight of fork oil, reassembly, reinstallation.
Doesn't sound like it's a job you should tackle - seeing as how you don't know where the oil goes, and all.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I'm sorry but I don't have the specs on the quantity and type of fork oil for your year and model bike. I work on the older bikes that the dealers will no longer service. But, I can describe the difference between the "wet" and "dry" conditions of the fork assembly. If you take the front forks apart, clean them out, and put them back together with no oil in them, they are considered "dry". For a simple drain and refill type oil change on them where you don't get all the oil out of them, they are considered "wet". I hope this helps, You can call you local dealer's service department and they should tell you the quantity and viscosity of the oil that goes in the front forks on your machine. They'll tell you something like 6 ounces of "Type E" oil, for example. Harley-Davidson uses these types of specs to describe their oils. If you go to a website for fork oil, like PJ1, they may give a cross reference or equivalency chart for converting H-D "Type E" to their oil. I think that would be their 30 weight oil. If the front end seems too "stiff" with 30 weight, you can drop down to 20 weight. I think Honda makes a 25 weight but not sure. Your Harley won't mind the Honda oil. BG.
Yes your fluid may need to be changed if you want a more firm front end. I don't know what type of fluid you have in the forks now but what you need to do is to go with a thicker oil. In my '94 FXDWG, I went to PJ1 30 weight oil. Since I don't have a book on your late model bike, I can't tell you how much oil to put into each tube. There is a "wet" and a "dry" quantity to add when you've drained them. If you simply drain the oil and refill the fork tubes, use the "wet" quantity of oil. If you disassemble and clean the tubes out, use the "dry" quantity when you refill.
To drain the oil, look on the trailing side of the fork sliders. You'll see a screw or a set screw in the slider. Take this plug out and some of the oil will simply flow out. To get all of it out, hold the front brake and push down on the handlebars. Now, oil will spray everywhere so don't do this job in your living room. Once you get the oil out of both tubes, reinstall the plugs and refill the tubes one at the time by removing the top cap out of the tube and pouring the prescribed amount of oil into each fork tube. Ride the bike and see if the front suspension is too soft, too firm, or just right. Remember, the heavier the viscosity of the oil, the more firm the front suspension is. If you can't get it right, you might want to consider changing the springs in the fork tubes.
Your triple clamps are the best vice for your fork tubes. Put your bike on the center stand and lift the front wheel off the ground with a jack. Take off your front wheel and loosen the socket caps in the bottom of the tubes. ( you may want to remove the front fender to work on tubes individually) On some models you have to put a towel on the tank, unbolt the handle bars, and move the bars enough to get them out of the way. Unbolt air crossover tube if equipped. Loosen fork top caps and remove. Place a pan under the forks and remove the socket screws. This will dump the oil and allow you to remove the fork lowers. You may need a seal pry bar to remove seals. Installation is reverse order . Add oil after snugging up socket screws ( tighten after top caps are on). Do not to over fill fork tubes with oil it will damage the fork sliders while you ride. The dealer can tell you the correct amount for your model. Honda dealers have pocket size specification books they get quick check the information.
First of all do not add oil to your front forks with out draining them first. If you over fill your forks with oil you will damage your forks. To change your oil in your forks, first center stand the bike and lift the front wheel by putting a jack under the motor. Remove the front wheel and axle and put a pie tin under the fork tube. Reach up into the bottom of the fork tube with a hex key and loosen the screw but do not remove. Now take the air pressure cross over tube off, this will allow you to unscrew the fork tops( On some bikes you may have to put a towel on the tank and unbolt the handle bars to get them out of the way.). Pull the screws out of the bottom of the forks and gently pull down the oil should come out now. If you need new fork seals take the lower tubes off and replace(You may need to take off the fender and hang the calipers with wires.). Turn the lowers over and dump out the oil and reinstall fork lowers. Snug up screws and sealing washers on the bottom of forks you can not tighten till you put on fork tops. Now pour in measured amount of oil, again do not over fill. Put on fork tops and air crossover tube. Now tighten screws on bottom of fork. Finish reassembling bike.
It is easiest to take apart your forks with them mounted on the bike. put the bike on the center stand. Remove the front wheel. Unbolt the calipers and hang with wire. Unbolt the fender and remove. Now reach up into the hole in the bottom of the fork with a hex key/allen wrench and loosen the socket bolts but do not remove. Now unbolt the handle bars and rest on a towel (just move back out of the way, you should not need to unhook everything) Remove the air crossover tube and unscrew the fork tops. Be careful some fork tops are under spring pressure. Now put a pan under the fork tube and finish removing the socket bolt and sealing washer , oil will come out. You should now be able to slide the lower tube off the upper tube. You will probably need a seal removal tool. Reassembly is reverse of this, remember to snug the socket bolt and sealing washer, then add measured amount of oil. Socket bolt can only be tightened after top cap has been put back on with spring tension..
must take the fork out of the t-post. then open the top cover. drain remaining oil. push down top part of the fork until it reaches to the end. put oil leveling the top. pull the top part of the fork again. spring must be inside when filling it with oil.
have you fixed the leak ? if so then you can just pull the handle bars and undo the top cap on the forks you may hear air escaping when you do this but thats ok it shouldn't be there any way adding oil is easy the right amount is the trick (tool required) looks like this available at a local bike shop near you depending on your skill level and what you are doing with the bike the right type and amount of oil in the front forks can dramaticaly affect the bike handeling Good Luck ride safe
I was told by many people it was a hard job. I didn't think so.
What you need is: New Seals. 8mm Allen Key. Half Inch Stocket bar AND Extender. Extra Fine Sand Paper/Polishing Device. Fork Oil + Measuring Jug. Threaded Bar with a Two 19mm Nuts Locked to each other on one end. Spanners. Screw Drivers.
How to do:
First Get the Front end off the Ground (ALOT, Center Stand on Bricks for extra height.)
Remove Front Wheel and Brake Calipers.
Open Drain Philips Screw on Base of Fork (Both Sides). Dont Lose Rubber washer under screw. Watch Out Also for Oil Being under Pressure.
Remove Nut from TOP of Fork (Alowing Handles and mirrors to come loose).
From Top you can see down tube has Nut/Cap with a Square Half Inch center. Use Socket Bar (and Extender if needed) without Bit to Remove reach in and remove. Watchout for Spring Pressure under the Cap/Nut.
Use Screw Driver or Hook of some kind to remove Preload Spacers, Washers AND Spring from Fork.
Slide your Threaded Bar with19mm Nuts (Make sure they are Locked Tight together at one end) down into the Fork and let it catch on the Oil Damper at the base. You will know when it's cought because you wont be able to spin the threaded bar anymore. This will stop the Damper from spinning while you undo the Allen Bolt at the very base under the fork (Outside).
Use Allen Key to remove Bolt from Underside of Fork While having someone or somthing hold the Threaded Bar form spinning.
Now look at the Old bust/leaking Oil Seal. There will be a Clip/Locking Spring in a Groove holding it in place.
Remove Clip without Damaging any part of clip or fork.
If Everything above was Done, you can now give the slider( Bottom Part) a big tug and it will all come lose.
One Part of the Oil damper will either fall off, or be left in the slider(Bottom Part). It slides over the Damper in the base of the tube.
Remove Two Split Washers from base of Tube and Copper Washer. Remove Old Oil Seal.
Place New Oil Seal on Gently.
Replace back on Copper washer, followed by two split washers.
Use Grease as a kind of glue to hold the part of damper that fell off back on.
Slide Slider back onto Tube.
Screw Allen Bolt back into base of slider as per originally was (Remeber to hold Threaded Bar if it starts spinning)
Push Gently new Oil Seal into Fork Slider for Snug Fit. Be Gental.
Replace Clip/Spring over top of Oil Seal Locking it in place.
Remove your threaded bar from top of Fork.
Replace Spring into Fork.
Replace Philips Oil Drain Screw into base of fork (Dont forget Rubber washer).
Now: For a GT550 (I am told also KZ550 but can confirm) you need 300ml of 15 weight Fork Oil. EACH Fork. So a Total of 600ml whole Job. IN EACH SIDE YOU WILL ADD ONLY 300ml of FORK OIL. (15w)
After this. Replace any washers, Preload Spacers and so back into for.
Replace Cap/Nut into Fork Tube with Socket Wrench and Extender.
Replace Handles and Moirrors and Nut holding both of these.
Replace back onto bike the Front Wheel
Check Brake Calipers for leaks and Pad Wear. It's Very Cheap to get new Pads. Not cheap to have months off work after a crash.
Replace back onto bike Calipers.
Pushing Bike (Not ride) test Brakes and Suspension.
At This point I am thinking your done. You may need to Add Air Preload into the Fork via the Air Valve. 4PSI is a Starting Point. I have run upto 15psi. Without Air in the Preload you may find it too soft. Upto you.
you have to take the forks out im afraid. put the bike on a few blocks so you have good height to slide the forks out, take the front wheel off and mudguard. then undo the pinch bolts by the handle bars then twist the forks left and right until they slide downwards and out. then you undo the tops and tip the old oil out. If your going to do all this you may aswell change the fork seals aswell if they havnt been done for a while. Easiest thing to do is get the forks out and then take them to a bike shop and let them do it, saves you loads on labour.
000 kays should i be doing a fork oil change soon? the manual i have doesnt mention it at all.
is there a noticeable difference is suspension performance after a fork oil change? i have noticed lately that the front end is a bit sloppy so have resorted to add a bit more rebound dampening30000k is a great time to do the fork oil change. the manuals sometime call for it sooner but from my expeience 10 years as a ducati mechanic 30,000 k would be when I would say to do the oil change.
FYI adding damping will heat the oil more and cause it to fail sooner, with the mileage it is probably time anyway.,,,